• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

2014 RT rear brake pad replacement

Question: when was the brake fluid last changed; are you doing it every two years as recommended in the schedule of service?

If you aren't due for a brake fluid change, you're fine for changing the pads. Buy EBC fully sintered pads from Bajaron along with his tool for retracting the rear piston, Post #18, a can of brake cleaner and a small bottle of fresh DOT 4 brake fluid. Read Ron's instructions in detail and follow them for the best results. Watch a couple of Youtube videos of a dude changing the front and rear pads on his F3, and have a six pack for you and your friend when the job's done. Don't let calipers hang by the brake fluid lines when you remove them from their mounting tabs. If you remove the rear wheel ABS speed sensor cable be certain to note the location of any shims and reinstall them in the same place. I clean the calipers and the rotors and mounting bolts with brake cleaner and a wire brush as necessary and use blue Loctite on the caliper bolts. Once you have replaced all the pads, pump the brake pedal several times to properly seat the pads BEFORE you turn on the ignition and then check the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir to ensure it's full. Bed the pads in according to Ron's instructions and you're all set.
 
The job is a good bit easier if you raise the rear wheel on some blocks as opposed to working within ground clearance.
 
Question: when was the brake fluid last changed; are you doing it every two years as recommended in the schedule of service?

If you aren't due for a brake fluid change, you're fine for changing the pads. Buy EBC fully sintered pads from Bajaron along with his tool for retracting the rear piston, Post #18, a can of brake cleaner and a small bottle of fresh DOT 4 brake fluid. Read Ron's instructions in detail and follow them for the best results. Watch a couple of Youtube videos of a dude changing the front and rear pads on his F3, and have a six pack for you and your friend when the job's done. Don't let calipers hang by the brake fluid lines when you remove them from their mounting tabs. If you remove the rear wheel ABS speed sensor cable be certain to note the location of any shims and reinstall them in the same place. I clean the calipers and the rotors and mounting bolts with brake cleaner and a wire brush as necessary and use blue Loctite on the caliper bolts. Once you have replaced all the pads, pump the brake pedal several times to properly seat the pads BEFORE you turn on the ignition and then check the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir to ensure it's full. Bed the pads in according to Ron's instructions and you're all set.

The fluid was changed last year on dealers recommendation. It sounds like this shouldn't be too tough. Neighbor said he'd help. So now I'll look into ordering everything.
 
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