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2014 RT rear brake pad replacement
- Thread starter cruisinTX
- Start date
cruisinTX
Member
yeah, I did a few searches here with no luck; then did a search on Google and You Tube; also no luck. The problem I'm having isn't actually in replacing the pads but in getting them sufficiently separated to get back on the disc. It seems the outer one got out of it's track when I had the caliper off replacing the rear tire. It looks like it is sitting about 1/8" higher up than the inner one and I cannot figure out how to get it squeezed back down enough to slide into the track properly.
SpyderJerry
Member
Brake pads
You must rotate the parking brake lever so that it pulls the piston back in. Do not try to force piston back as you can damage calliper.
You must rotate the parking brake lever so that it pulls the piston back in. Do not try to force piston back as you can damage calliper.
cruisinTX
Member
It's not against the piston yet. seems the outer pad slipped out of it's track and I'm just needing to "see" the proper way to install new pads as I'm pretty sure that procedure will get me to where I need to be. I'm being super cautious here because this is my first DIY on a Spyder and I don't want to screw anything up and then have to go to a st(d)ealer and pay outrageous rates. I've been turning wrenches on motorcycles and cars since 1968 and the BRP engineers seem to have done a very good job of designing things so as to discourage even the most skilled DIYer.
Being 160 miles to the nearest dealer is also a deterrent. :banghead:
IGETAROUND
Active member
2014 RT rear brakes
take your caliper off the mounting points; use a heavy needle nose pliers in the 2 holes and turn clockwise until caliper piston is flush, reinsert pads and clips, put the one bolt back through the hole in the pads and remount the caliper with blue locktite and ~ 70 Ftlbs of torque on the bolts of the caliper. :thumbup:
take your caliper off the mounting points; use a heavy needle nose pliers in the 2 holes and turn clockwise until caliper piston is flush, reinsert pads and clips, put the one bolt back through the hole in the pads and remount the caliper with blue locktite and ~ 70 Ftlbs of torque on the bolts of the caliper. :thumbup:
cptjam
Registered User
Flat spring
On the ends of the caliper is a flat piece of metal made of spring steel. Pry that up and the pad slips under, then goes in. As Al mentioned, use needlenose pliers to rotate the piston in flush on the caliper. Try that. If you get stuck, call me. Number below. I’ll walk you thru it. Joe
On the ends of the caliper is a flat piece of metal made of spring steel. Pry that up and the pad slips under, then goes in. As Al mentioned, use needlenose pliers to rotate the piston in flush on the caliper. Try that. If you get stuck, call me. Number below. I’ll walk you thru it. Joe
rear brakes
There IS A video on u tube for back brakes but I think its for a newer f3 however it is for the bembo brakes which the rt has the piston needs to be turned in with a pair of pliers I will be doing my brakes also when I get my pads not pushed in the pliers are for snap rings harbor freight has a kit u can buy also for the piston removal.
There IS A video on u tube for back brakes but I think its for a newer f3 however it is for the bembo brakes which the rt has the piston needs to be turned in with a pair of pliers I will be doing my brakes also when I get my pads not pushed in the pliers are for snap rings harbor freight has a kit u can buy also for the piston removal.
You aren't gonna get a Brembo piston on your Spyder rear brakes to move no matter how hard you PUSH - the pistons only move back in if you TURN!! ie, the Brembo piston used on the rear of these things will only SCREW back in!! :shocked:
Sounds like Captjam/Joe's offer of talking you thru the whole process if you call him might be worthwhile taking up? :thumbup:
cruisinTX
Member
yeah, we've already visited. I actually was turning the pliars at the same time, just didn't say it that way. Unfortunately the piston still is not moving. I'm gonna start fresh in the morning with another suggestion from Joe, but not really holding my breath; not because of Joe's advice, but because I think I'm jinxed on this thing.
Right now, it's time to just kick back and think about it or maybe not think about it. :cheers:
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cruisinTX
Member
TAHNK YOU--THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!
Big thanks to all for your guidance; the Spyder is back together and did well on a short test ride. Special thanks to Joe for his patience in multiple texts and a few phone calls in this ordeal. I ended up having to make a special tool to get the piston to retract far enough to get the pads back in. There was once a time when I might have had the strength to do it; 30 years ago when I was able to bench press 275 pounds, now at 63 I may have lost some strength. That's a whole 'nuther story tough. :shocked:
Once again; thank you all for your help.
klc
Big thanks to all for your guidance; the Spyder is back together and did well on a short test ride. Special thanks to Joe for his patience in multiple texts and a few phone calls in this ordeal. I ended up having to make a special tool to get the piston to retract far enough to get the pads back in. There was once a time when I might have had the strength to do it; 30 years ago when I was able to bench press 275 pounds, now at 63 I may have lost some strength. That's a whole 'nuther story tough. :shocked:
Once again; thank you all for your help.
klc
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Bam Bam and Pebbles
New member
Check this video out. Dude also has an excellent video on how to replace the front pads. Actually shows how to do it, which doesn't happen too much on Spyder videos.
cruisinTX
Member
Wish I could have found that one a week ago. Thanks for sharing. :thumbup:
spyderwing57
Member
Thanks for the posts I think the clips in the rear caliper on my Spyder may have gotten distorted because the pads went all the way down to metal. The new pads didn't fit right in place. I am going to get a spring clip kit for rear wheels to see if that helps. My son and I adjusted (tweaked) the clips to get pads in. I will take it for a ride to see how the brakes work.
Lew L
Well-known member
New pads all around
Did all 3 brake calipers last week. Pretty easy actually, looked at the videos. Sturdy needle nose pliers work fine. Broke in the pads with some easy ryding. Then a few hard stops with a cooling cycle in between. New pads DO provide more stopping power --- less pedal pressure. 24k miles on the RTS. Some pads were less than 1mm. But some weren't--- Just did them all and glad I did.
Going around Lake Tahoe with my wife today ( a yearly pilgrimage ) Plenty of up and down on that route.
Lew L
Did all 3 brake calipers last week. Pretty easy actually, looked at the videos. Sturdy needle nose pliers work fine. Broke in the pads with some easy ryding. Then a few hard stops with a cooling cycle in between. New pads DO provide more stopping power --- less pedal pressure. 24k miles on the RTS. Some pads were less than 1mm. But some weren't--- Just did them all and glad I did.
Going around Lake Tahoe with my wife today ( a yearly pilgrimage ) Plenty of up and down on that route.
Lew L
JayBros
Well-known member
Joe Meyer is absolutely Top Drawer when it comes to helping Spyder owners with problems. He has offered me sage advice and instructions on many of my maintenance exploits.
On a related hand we keep Bajaron busy and for those who purchase EBC brake pads and rotors from him the best tool to have in the inventory is his Brembo rear caliper piston retracting tool. The picture on the left is the business end of the tool and the one on the right is where you put the 3/8 drive ratchet with short extension. If you have two hands that's all you need to screw that piston clockwise all the way back with minimal effort. And you can't beat the price.
On a related hand we keep Bajaron busy and for those who purchase EBC brake pads and rotors from him the best tool to have in the inventory is his Brembo rear caliper piston retracting tool. The picture on the left is the business end of the tool and the one on the right is where you put the 3/8 drive ratchet with short extension. If you have two hands that's all you need to screw that piston clockwise all the way back with minimal effort. And you can't beat the price.
cptjam
Registered User
My pleasure, Jay. We love to ride, and want everyone else to love to ride, worry free. Knowledge replaces fear. Things break; so, fix it and keep on riding! Last week, I installed 3 seats 3 times, backrests on the 2020 RT countless times, fixed a fender light, installed Wedgies, scienced out trailer harnesses, and handlebars. Teaching a class on 3 wheels tomorrow, then getting busy next week with oil changes, tire replacement, services, and on and on. Fun!
My wife's brakes ('15 RT) started to make noise last week and the dealers are talking 3-4 weeks minimum if we leave it. Could someone give me an idea of how hard and what all is needed to change the rear brakes? Are there better pads that factory? If this is something that is complicated we may just have to wait or find an independent shop. I have worked on bikes in the past and my neighbor loves to work on them so I know he would help.
Thanks
Mark
Thanks
Mark
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