2014 RT Ltd - ACS - should I Disable it before it fails?

[UPSMAN]

I purchased a used 2014 Spyder RT Limited with 8889 miles and the ACS system works and the previous owner stated that she never had a problem with it. (Solo Rider).

My question is, knowing that the ACS system in 2014 have high failure rates, would any of you longtime owners disable it and strictly go to manual operation by unplugging the compressor, capping the check valve, and unplugging the solenoid then manually setting the air pressure to 60psi? Or what preventive steps should I take, like replacing the check valve periodically, and testing for leaks once a year before riding season? What are your thoughts &/or what preventive measures are you taking to make sure this system does not fail?

Another question, can you disable the ACS System using BUDS Software, and then set the pressure manually? Can doing this mean not having to physically unplug and cap the check valve?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

 

[bigbadbrucie]

I have 70,000+ kms on my ‘14 RTS and never a minutes problem. If I were in your shoes, I’d leave it alone and worry about it if or when there’s a problem. Just my 2 cents.....

 

[Mikey]

You know the old saying if it's not broke don't fix it? Well, that's what I would do, it's a easy enough fix when that gremlin rears his head, just keep a eye on the exhaust port off the dump valve, if the check valve starts leaking by slowly, that's what makes your pump work overtime, and eventually lead to a burnt-out pump. When it happens it's up to you weather to go to a manual fill or rake out the cash for a new one, myself the manual fill is the way to go, cheap fix in my book and works just as well.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Yes, you can turn off ACS with BUDS with the standard or Megatech licenses and not have to disconnect or cap anything - as long as you have no leaks. Go to Settings>Vehicle Configuration>Vehicle Option, and uncheck the box. You may need to write back the change. BUDS will prompt you. If your system doesn’t leak now because of so few miles, now would be the perfect time to turn it off, if you’re so inclined. You won’t have to disconnect or unplug anything. Everything just stops functioning and the switch on the panel becomes disabled, also.

Remember, each time you check the pressure with a tire gauge, you’ll lose about 2 pounds. There’s not much air in there. Checking pressure, or even ambient temperature changes will cause slight variations in air pressure, even with no leakage. A band of 55 - 60 pounds is perfect.

 

[DGoebel]

I had a '13 RTL that had one failed pump, two failed checkvalves (one was the "upgraded" check-valve) and I decided to just switch it to manual fill, ran straight airline from the top of the bag to the bottom of the schraeder valve under the seat. Didn't have to do any BUDS alteration at all. I did disconnect and remove the airpump and the air manifold assembly. Worked great, but i wouldn't do it as a "Just in Case" As others have said, if it ain't broke....... ryde on, ryde on, ryde on.....

 

[UPSMAN]

Thanks for the reply's, I totally agree with the Quote with the old saying if it ain't broke don't mess with it, However after reading all the posts and Watching videos, I really don't want to have to spend money on a system that has a high failure rate and that most people end up going to a manual system when it is all said and done. I think turning the system off and try to take stress off the pump and other parts to hopefully keep the system working if ever needed. If I was riding 2 up I would keep it active but for a solo rider it seems the best option is to turn it off, since I really don’t want to spend the money if this system is really not needed.

Question, if I do turn it off with BUDS will I have to reset position sensors in the ACS System if I ever turn it back on? Or does it keep those settings in memory.

If anyone has more advice or reasons not to turn off the system I am all ears.

 

[Mikey]

Like I said, in your case it's a personal choice. What you have right now is working fine, why screw with it if it's working? If it fails, you it's an easy fix that if you have a few hand tools and a good auto parts store to go to you could fix it on the road! You don't NEED BUDS to do the job. It's worked for me for six years so far! But if it gives you a peace of mind you have all kinds of options; go manual fill, and still use you air bag and crappie shock back there;or get a nice aftermarket shock and blow the whole system back there up and have a nice life. Good luck with whatever you decide.

 

[billy4644]

I have a 2014 RT, I’ve plugged the check valve & compressor. I’m just gonna use the schraeder valve to fill the bag. Is there an easy way to kill the compressor without removing the tire?

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

IMO you would be better off to put a rock guard on the bottom end of the air shock. I've got nearly 43,000 miles on my 2014 RTS with no problem with the ACS.

 

[lonzol]

Guess it's my turn in the barrel! My wife's 2015 RT limited. My soapy water didn't find any leaks, the check valve was junked up. I cleaned it and have the system pumped up to see if it leaks off much overnight.

 

[larryd]

While you're in there that close to the air bag I would definitely do the rock guard to the bottom of the air bag... It's easy and inexpensive... larryd

 

[lonzol]

While you're in there that close to the air bag I would definitely do the rock guard to the bottom of the air bag... It's easy and inexpensive... larryd

Well, it seems my air bag is bad; ran a single line from Schrader to bag, no leaks in connections or anywhere visible on airbag but it leaked down to 0 psi overnight!

larryd: Will do on the rock guard! BTW: I saw this post of yours from a while ago:

I'm thinking of reworking the air ride system next winter... Going to put a pressure gauge somewhere I can read it... and use the air ride switch to set the pressure I want... and disconnect the automatic leveling control that constantly exhausts the air with every movement of the bike... So basically it will be like the standard RT, but I will use the onboard compressor to air it up to the pressure I want, rather than the valve under the seat...

Couldn't find it in a search but this is exactly what I thought about doing, using the on-board compressor to be able to adjust without having to find or carry an external air supply.

Wondering if you or anyone else has done this, if so, will the suspension switch simply run the compressor until you let it off if I disable the swing arm switch/exhaust valve? Will the bike have to be in gear to operate the compressor, etc?

Any insight appreciated! TIA! lonzol

 

[Mikey]

The problem with that set up is that there should be a check valve in that system so the air doesn't just back feed through the compressor and out of your system. And that check valve can get mucked up with grime and leak; soooo, you would be better off taking all the gremlins out of that system and make it as easy and headache free as you can. Hose from bag to Shrader, fill it and forget it! Once you find your right air setting trust me you will not mess with it again unless you have a leak in the system. And if that happens you having that compressor in the loop is not going to help you get home any easier, you will be dead on the bumpers, ask me how I know. Good Luck, whichever way you decide to turn!