2014 RH Grill on 2013 RTS

[montago]

I was at my local dealer today and finally got to see a 2014 RTS sitting next to the match of my 2013 RTS. As I looked over the changes I noticed that the front trunk cowling was the only real differance as from there back it was the same as the 2013. Then I noticed that there is now a plastic honeycomb vent cover for the upper hole and a solid panel for the lower hole that has been bothering me since I bought my 2013 in September. After asking nicely to pop the side panel off the 2014 I saw no reason for the new "one-piece" vent plate to fit on the 2013 model. So I went ahead and ordered the part. The part number is 705004803 - RH GRILL.

http://parts.spyder.brp.com/Index.a...olg386v37&catalog_id=0&language_id=1&siteid=1

Look under 2014 Spyder RTS SE6 then the 09-Body and Accessories 31Y1402

The part is #312 on the middle left of the blowout diagram.


I'm not sure if anyone can confirm this will fit, but it is worth the $25 to get rid of the gapping hole in the right side of my 2013.

 

[taxmyzer]

I was wondering the same thing. Keep us posted once you get the part.

 

[ThreeWheels]

Did it look anything like this ?
I reversed a LH grill I got for free when I had the oil change panel upgrade.
If BRP is making these as a standard part, that would be a far better route.
I'm not sure I'd go so far as to block off the lower hole. I didn't want to change the air flow too much.
Just my opinion, I could be wrong.

 

[Cruzr Joe]

Did it look anything like this ?
I reversed a LH grill I got for free when I had the oil change panel upgrade.
If BRP is making these as a standard part, that would be a far better route.
I'm not sure I'd go so far as to block off the lower hole. I didn't want to change the air flow too much.
Just my opinion, I could be wrong.

The 2014 has the lower hole blocked straight from the factory.

Cruzr Joe

 

[Bob Denman]

No doubt; the radiator relocation makes this a much easier decsion. :thumbup:
But I'd be nervous about upsetting, "The airflow applecart" too :shocked:... proceed carefully!

 

[jcthorne]

Let us know if it fits though and post a pic or two. Worth considering as its not expensive.

 

[montago]

The showroom was a little dark, but with the side panel removed the grill was just slipped down from the top hole. As for airflow concerns I am going to keep an eye on it when installed and if needed I will make some holes in the lower solid plate to allow air out. I'm just happy to have something that looks stock filling the holes. The other advantage I saw with this panel is that I can put a "safety tether" on the side cover in case it decides to come off while driving.

As a side note. I love the new brushed aluminum look of the RT-S CAN-AM logo trims on the 2014. Not being a chrome lover myself I might purchase a set of them to get rid of the shinny bits on my :spyder2:.

 

[3 Wheel Addict]

I don't care for the chrome on mine either, wish they was black with chrome letters.

 

[montago]

I don't care for the chrome on mine either, wish they was black with chrome letters.

I'm planning to plastidip all of the fake chrome on my :spyder2:. Just need the temps to come back up so I can get it to stick.

 

[n1njazx7]

oil change panel upgrade

I hate to sound dumb but what is the "oil change panel upgrade"?

 

[Bob Denman]

...Back in 2012; BRP changed some parts around on the bike to make it easier to change the oil... :thumbup:

 

[montago]

I was wondering the same thing. Keep us posted once you get the part.

Took a little trimming to remove the extended flanges used on the 2014, but fits really well and looks like it was factory installed.

Check out the album link for pictures of the part and mods done to it before installing.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/album.php?albumid=3265

At $25 I really like the way it finishes the right side of the cowling.

Note: I trimmed enough of the lower cover to allow for 10mm of clearance around the full perimeter to allow airflow around it.

 

[HedonismBot]

Took a little trimming to remove the extended flanges used on the 2014, but fits really well and looks like it was factory installed.

Check out the album link for pictures of the part and mods done to it before installing.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/album.php?albumid=3265

At $25 I really like the way it finishes the right side of the cowling.

Note: I trimmed enough of the lower cover to allow for 10mm of clearance around the full perimeter to allow airflow around it.

Very nice job! I wonder if this would work on a 2012.

 

[Magdave]

I ordered one. Wonder what the heat will do to it? I think it is worth a shot to give it a try I always thought that hole was fugly. I plan on putting slits in it to redirect the air out on the bottom.

 

[montago]

Very nice job! I wonder if this would work on a 2012.

My guess would be yes as the main body style is the same.


Note: For anyone interested it only took me about 20 minutes to hand cut the plastic off with a coping saw and then sand the edges with my Dremal.

 

[montago]

I ordered one. Wonder what the heat will do to it? I think it is worth a shot to give it a try I always thought that hole was fugly. I plan on putting slits in it to redirect the air out on the bottom.

I trimmed away most of the extra flange around the lower hole cover so that there is plenty of airflow around the "plug". I've taped foil streamers to the leading edge of these gaping holes when I rode this fall and noticed a lot of air disturbance from the turbulence off the front wheel. I'm not sold on the idea that the air is not being forced in the big holes on the side as much as from the radiator. I've tape sealed my internal cowl to force the air out from under the body and away from under the seat area. I'm going to guess the new grill will actually help cause outside air to pass over the vent and create some "draft" added to the pressured warm air coming off the radiator.

 

[Bob Denman]

Glad to hear that this is working out so well... :clap: :2thumbs:

 

[Magdave]

I trimmed away most of the extra flange around the lower hole cover so that there is plenty of airflow around the "plug". I've taped foil streamers to the leading edge of these gaping holes when I rode this fall and noticed a lot of air disturbance from the turbulence off the front wheel. I'm not sold on the idea that the air is not being forced in the big holes on the side as much as from the radiator. I've tape sealed my internal cowl to force the air out from under the body and away from under the seat area. I'm going to guess the new grill will actually help cause outside air to pass over the vent and create some "draft" added to the pressured warm air coming off the radiator.

Like I said I plan on trying to create some vent flaps and bend them out. If they don't stay bent I will just cut some slots on the bottom part. I was looking at a metal one just for the top but it was $69 for powder coated aluminum. I have Seal DLX floorboards so if I can get the air to go out a little at the bottom instead of straight back the foot rests on them will keep the flow going outward. I was just waiting for someone else to do what you have to see if it would fit so thanks for blazing the trail. :thumbup:

 

[montago]

If temps do rise I plan to pull it off and use my oscolating saw to cut a couple of staight slots that I can heat up and bend into louvers. Whatever I end up will be better then a gaping whole.

 

[Magdave]

If temps do rise I plan to pull it off and use my oscolating saw to cut a couple of staight slots that I can heat up and bend into louvers. Whatever I end up will be better then a gaping whole.

:agree: That is my plan from the start. There is only a little of the upper left corner that does not hide behind my Floorboard even if it goes south I can cut 3/4 of the bottom out diagonally and still be good the hole would never be seen and the footrest will push it away. :thumbup: