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2013 RTS LTD

make sure they also do a new front end alinment,because the bad ball joints would not let them get the alinement right,and yes it wont coast you any money.:chat:
 
K,

Your dealer should be able to tell you if your machine is part of the ball joint replacement campaign and a few folks have had a machine with a bad alignment problem, but I really doubt if yours is a "relaxation" problem. You sound like you have had plenty of experience. Granted, the Spyder handles differently than a 2-wheeler, but you are experienced enuf to know if you are holding on too tight. I'm sure you caught yourself doing that on a 2-wheeler. You know if you are doing it. I was a pilot for over 30 yrs. Believe me, I know about over-correcting. I was NOT over correcting and my RT was all over the road.

I bought my Spyder for the same reason you expressed, more stability and better visibility. When I first took my 2013 out for a spin, I got a very sick feeling that I had just traded a great BMW RT for a wild animal. You are right. For the money, we should expect a little bit. Being scared to go over 40mph is NOT satisfaction. I sure hope you get the handling figured out because I am really happy with my RT after the ball joint replacement!

Good luck,

Loren
 
New to the Spyder

akspyderman said:
:welcome: The above posters have you well covered for starters. The issues may be partly overcontrol input. Let's hope that is your situation and that the bike was set up properly. It takes most people 500 to 1500 miles of riding to get comfortable. New riders are at the low end of the spectrum. Experienced two wheelers usually take a little longer to unlearn some of the things that are different about the :spyder2:. Keep us posted.
Click to expand...

I agree....the more miles you put on your Spyder, the more comfortable you will become. The Spyder feels totally different than a motorcycle. You really do have to "unlearn" what you have been doing riding 2 wheels.
 
Call BRP

kwalker5 said:
Is there a build date located on the machine? If I can find that I will no if it has the ball joint issue. I can only say I hope that is the problem, otherwise I am not sure I will ever enjoy riding this machine...:(
Click to expand...
If you call BRP and give them the VIN number for your Spyder, they can tell you if the computer shows the new Ball Joint was installed (I did). Also, my advice on steering is that you can pull or push the handle bar, but not both. For me, if I push with one hand and pull with the other, it causes the over steering. So, to turn right, I gently push with the left hand while holding the throttle with the right, but not pulling on it. To turn left, if I am holding the throttle (as opposed to having cruise control on) I would Pull with the left hand gently. If I am using cruise control, to turn left, I push with the right hand while resting the left on the handle bar. Again, I recommend pushing or pulling, but not both at the same time.
 
Huddleston said:
If you call BRP and give them the VIN number for your Spyder, they can tell you if the computer shows the new Ball Joint was installed (I did). Also, my advice on steering is that you can pull or push the handle bar, but not both. For me, if I push with one hand and pull with the other, it causes the over steering. So, to turn right, I gently push with the left hand while holding the throttle with the right, but not pulling on it. To turn left, if I am holding the throttle (as opposed to having cruise control on) I would Pull with the left hand gently. If I am using cruise control, to turn left, I push with the right hand while resting the left on the handle bar. Again, I recommend pushing or pulling, but not both at the same time.
Click to expand...

If the system you describe works for you, great, keep using it. However, I routinely steer using both pushing and pulling at the same time and it works best for me. The main thing is to use a light touch for both the push and pull with soft hands on the grips. Using both reduces the force necessary and that must be compensated for by lighter steering effort, but it is also less tiring to steer that way, especially on a road with many twisties as we have so many of in the area I live.

I've also found it useful to ride slightly offset to the right if the road permits and if the lane has a prominent center crown, thus keeping the rear wheel at least partially off the crown. Even if the rear wheel is on the side of the crown rather than on the peak (when it wants to run down one side of the crown or the other) the veering is reduced.

I try to avoid responding to every little veer or direction change the Spyder starts to make, but rather using soft hands, keeping the steering straight and throttle even. In this respect it's a little like riding a dirt bike when it's moving around on the dirt and the bikes momentum straightens it out again. Of course, I'm not referring here to major direction changes like the machine suddenly heading across the centerline. Experience will eventually make it automatic as to what situations to attempt to correct direction and what situations don't require it, and the tendency to overcorrection stops. It becomes so automatic that it all happens without the rider even needing to think about it (it took a few thousand miles for that to happen for me).

These are just my ideas, some picked up from other riders and some developed on my own, about Spyder handling and may not apply to anyone else. Just thought I'd put in my 2 Cents worth.

Mike
Idaho
www.rtwrider.net
 
Ball Joints

I spoke with my dealer's technician this morning and according to him the ball joints are not a recall......I was hoping that it was so I could look forward to enjoying my ride rather then being terrified of it. If I wanted a ride like this I could have gone to Great Escape and gotten on a few roller coasters at least then it would have been cheaper. Thank all of you for your input.

Huddleston said:
If you call BRP and give them the VIN number for your Spyder, they can tell you if the computer shows the new Ball Joint was installed (I did). Also, my advice on steering is that you can pull or push the handle bar, but not both. For me, if I push with one hand and pull with the other, it causes the over steering. So, to turn right, I gently push with the left hand while holding the throttle with the right, but not pulling on it. To turn left, if I am holding the throttle (as opposed to having cruise control on) I would Pull with the left hand gently. If I am using cruise control, to turn left, I push with the right hand while resting the left on the handle bar. Again, I recommend pushing or pulling, but not both at the same time.
Click to expand...
 
kwalker5 said:
I feel very comfortable with right hand turns, the only issue I have with the right is being to close to the white line and feeling like the drainage angle of the road is going to pull me into the ditch. Left hand curves no matter how small are pure torture for me to make without slowing way down or heading over yellow line and making a tractor trailer swing....LOL

I have driven snowmobiles, 4 wheelers and a 2 wheeled motorcycle so I am not knew to riding just knew to riding a spyder.
Click to expand...

Now you know what to do, learn how to ride a spyder. The biggest mistake of few riders is the the same what you did. They claimed 10, 20, 30 years of riding but 0 years of SPYDER ride.

Give your self time on your new ride and ride safe. good luck and God Bless.
 
Could be..!!

a combination of all you have read here. The best is to go to the dealer have them run the vin# through their computers and see if the updates were done. Have them run a BUDS check and have their tech ryde it (over 25 in the parking lot). This can be done while you wait. Still go over the do's and don'ts for they are a great help when starting out or switching over from two wheels. Good luck you will master thus and love the ryde again...:thumbup:
 
kwalker5 said:
I spoke with my dealer's technician this morning and according to him the ball joints are not a recall......I was hoping that it was so I could look forward to enjoying my ride rather then being terrified of it. If I wanted a ride like this I could have gone to Great Escape and gotten on a few roller coasters at least then it would have been cheaper. Thank all of you for your input.
Click to expand...

While your difficulty may be a result of inexperience with the Spyder (we all had overcontrol issues at first), it may also have an alignment related component. If your Spyder follows every bump and road variation, it could need a little more toe-in. The 2013s have a different alignment procedure and use different tools. make sure your dealer uses the right procedure and tools, and does the work carefully. There could also be other steering issues. You might want to have an experienced rider ride yours to evaluate it, or you may want to ride a demo Spyder for comparison. If yours is different, it may need dealer intervention, and the dealer may need assistance or advice from BRP. There have been a few "evil" 2013s that did not respond to just the new ball joints. They can be cured.
 
akspyderman said:
:welcome: The above posters have you well covered for starters. The issues may be partly overcontrol input. Let's hope that is your situation and that the bike was set up properly. It takes most people 500 to 1500 miles of riding to get comfortable. New riders are at the low end of the spectrum. Experienced two wheelers usually take a little longer to unlearn some of the things that are different about the :spyder2:. Keep us posted.
Click to expand...

Absolutely true! With nearly 60 years of 2 wheelers, I thought the RT was the biggest mistake of my life. Felt exactly like Kwalker5 does; anything over 45 scared the crap outta me. Read what everyone says about relaxing, etc, and it just didn't seem to help. Only thing that worked was consistant riding just a little every day. By 1500 miles it was better and by 3000 I decided it might not have been too big a mistake. Some time later, I love hitting the open roads and interstates at 70 mph on cruise ct. I find mountian roads to still be wearing after awhile and after a couple hours I'm ready to leave them to the youngsters. Now, I absolutely love my '11 Rt and have no interest in trading.

It'll come, Kwalker5, just stick to it. Honestly, it will.
 
Find an experienced rider in your area ( ask your dealer to tell you who lives near you) and let them test drive it for you, what area do you live in, maybe some one close would meet you and drive your Spyder.

Cruzr Joe


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
I just changed from a 2011 RT to a 2013 RT, and I found that the font end in the corners was softer then the 2011. Last night I installed a new anti sway bar and it made cornering a whole lot better! For me it is a day and night difference.

The soft front end was my very first complaint ( to myself) about this new frame. Anti-sway bar is about $220 and I feel it was well worth it.

Zwolf.Tx of Cypress Texas
Allan


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
kwalker5 said:
Thank all of you for responding.

I do not no where the do's and don'ts of this site are so if you could point me in the direction I will take a look.

I have relaxed my arms and shoulders and tried pushing on the bar instead of pulling and that didn't work for me either. I can't explain it except to say when I am going faster then 50-55 down the straight away I feel like I am all over the road and I can't control it, making left curves/bends is almost frighting, & when I try to hug the shoulder I feel like the dip in the road for water drainage is going to suck me off the road. When I am on back roads doing 40-45 going straight isn't bad but trying to make left curves seems to be a lot of work, right curves not so much. I hope this is not how it is suppose to be because I will always be afraid to ride.

I would love to find some riders in the upstate NY area so I can talk with someone local about the ride. The dealership I got this from had it brought in from another dealer so they don't have any RTS 2013 in stock currently. Are there any front suspension adjustments? I know my husband has the ride on as hard as it will go, does that make it harder to steer?

QUOTE=Jeffbear;649695]The general consensus seems to be the following:

First, relax. Push the bar instead of pulling the bars and it seems to work better (tried this on my test ride it worked great!) Avoid gripping the bar too tight.
Second check air pressure in your tires. The pressures are on the left side of the bike.
Third, check and make sure your ball joints have been replaced by your dealer.

Hope this helps, the real experts will be here shortly :D
Click to expand...
[/QUOTE]


My 2013 RT-S did the same thing at speeds over 55 until they replaced the ball joints. Since that has been completed I have been able to go 70 and higher without any problem. Have the dealer check the ball joints for you.
 
SpyderAnn01 said:
I really doubt that the ball joints are the issue. Given that you just purchased the Spyder they should definitely be the new ones. If not your dealer should be shot. Spyders were shipped with the new ball joints starting in early April.

Ease way up on the handlebars because if you hold on to them tight you will create a monster to handle. Don't give up on the Spyder yet I am sure that you will figure it out and then you will love it. It takes a little time to get used to it.

Good luck.
Click to expand...

Mine was "Born on" 3/20 and is not in the VIN range for the ball joint replacement according to BRP and my dealer. Mine was squirrely at first too I tried using the BRP digital gauge (junk) to check my tires and dug up my old one and found 2lb difference between them one was 16.5 the other 14.5 got them at 17lbs now and it tracks like it is on rails.
 
Had the same problem with my 2013 .....you need more time riding...it took me near 300 miles to relax and enjoy please just relax.....


See ya on the road

howard
 
Sounds just like me!

kwalker5 said:
I just bought my first Spyder a week ago this past Saturday. I thought I was going to love it, but so far I do not like it. I am having a very difficult time controlling my sway on the highway as well as making left curves/bends in the road. I feel like I am going to tip over and when I go to make the left curves I end up heading towards the yellow line. I am also having a hard time keeping it from pulling me to the right when I try to stay at the white line . I road it yesterday for about 50 miles and my chest and back hurt so bad from pulling so much to try and stay on the road....Is there something wrong with my bike, me or are they just that difficult to control at 55 miles an hour? I am so discouraged with this bike and feel so bad because I told my husband I would love it and ride it a lot....Any suggestions!!!??
Click to expand...
My husband and I take turns driving. Thought everyone was right, we just needed to get used to the ride. About 2500 miles noticed the front tires were cupping to the inside badly. We are on a road trip, so we pulled into a dealer in north ga. By this time we have about 3000 miles. A salesman walks out, looks at our bike a minute and says, wow! Your front end is out of align. They took us to the service department and a young man worked on it a couple of hours, rotated the tires, aligned it using the computer and he drove it some. He told us he had ordered new tires and would realign it when the new tires came in. On the way home, the bike rode just like you are talking about. Left hand turns were a nightmare. The bike pulled hard to the right, he had no trouble on the right hand curves. we were riding on the interstate about 65 mph. It took us about an hour to get back to where we are staying. He was exhausted. When he let me drive on the back road about 45 mph, a curvy road I have driven many times, I thought I was going to wreck. The feeling was just like you described. The next day we took it back down to the dealer. I didn't care if the computer did say the bike was in alignment, I couldn't ride it. He put the bike back the way it was mostly by driving it himself, then working with it and driving it again, until he got it to a point it didn't pull. The bike still isn't right. But we can drive it without being in fear until the new tires come in. Then he said he would take the front end off, see what is going on, and do a laser alignment. Note from husband, bike is 2013 RTS and ball joints have been replaced before we bought the bike. Sorry for the lengthy note, but others just don't understand. I will write again after the next service visit.
 
In 2011 , I test drove different 2 RT's on the same day before I deceide to jump in and buy a Limited RT , the first one I drove ,for 50 some miles without passenger , was immediately a winner for me since I snowmobile for 6 to 8 thousand miles per year ,the comparaison was similar but more stable . Then I rode another one with my wife ( she was the reason to buy a spyder...
I was more in the mood for a harley but she was scared of two wheeler and told me that I would ride alone soooo...) the second one was orrrrrible to drive !! I was fighting it to keep a straight line and it was pulling the any side i was triing to correct left or wright . I got back to the dealer and told tha service manager the problem and we discussed for a few minutes and finaly egreed on a simple possibility that is also encounter on snowmobile and gave the RT a toe out of a quarter turn on each adjustable rod since it was pulling equal on both side... bingo I rode that RT with my wife for 100 miles approx. and was perfectly straight line without pulling left or right anymore . We bought the LTD on the same day.
The LTD did the same ... wasn't able to keep an easy straight line on the way home sooo I did a toe out on both side (a quarte turn on each rod... WOW !!!I can drive this machine with 1 finger on each handle since then... I'M at about 23,000 miles now.
hope this can help you !!!
 
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