Well I’m hoping I didn’t fubar. I had to put a new rear tire and drive belt on the spyder. Everything actually went better than expected. Until I went to put the brake caliper back on. Had to loosen the blender valve to get the pads to open up enough to go back over the rotor. Got it all back together. Started it up and all kinds of warning messages came up. All having to do with the brake system. Check engine light and it’s in limp mode. Guess I’m heading to the dealer :-(
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2013 RT Limited - several codes - Update!
- Thread starter GlenCreek
- Start date
Yeah that’s what I’m thinking but I read it has to be done at the dealer using a special machine? The dealer I talked to said it’s $325
The only reason you'd need the dealer to bleed the brakes is if you HAD to activate the ABS module to purge it of trapped air/old fluid.... 
Doing that requires the use of BRP's proprietary Diagnostic & Maintenance software, BUDS. BUT, if you didn't do any emergency braking while the bleed screw/s was/were open; nor pump the brake pedal repeatedly while the fluid reservoirs were absolutely empty, then the NEED for that is likely to be pretty small! :lecturef_smilie:
So if you feel reasonably confident you can do a brake bleed yourself, go ahead - most of the time you don't NEED to go to the dealer to bleed the brakes/activate &/or purge the ABS module after simply changing the brake pads. But remember, they ARE your brakes & as such, are a pretty important safety feature - so if you're not reasonably confident you can do it properly yourself, then it might be smart to find someone who is to help &/or do it for you.... altho that's not necessarily a dealer!
hyea:
Just about any competent home spanner spinner is up to this sorta stuff, especially with some knowledgeable guidance; but if you feel the need of engaging a 'professional' then most good brake service techs should be able to do 99.89% of what needs to be done; and 99% of the time, once that 'basic brake bleed' is done (without the ABS activation/purge) & the pads are seated properly &/or the low pressure switch has been re-set (if you triggered that particular issue/code/warning) then all it'll take to get rid of any remaining 'active brake related codes' is about 30 metres of gentle & careful ryding, with a brake application or two during that time/distance.....
Go on, give it a go! You Know you want to! :thumbup:
Doing that requires the use of BRP's proprietary Diagnostic & Maintenance software, BUDS. BUT, if you didn't do any emergency braking while the bleed screw/s was/were open; nor pump the brake pedal repeatedly while the fluid reservoirs were absolutely empty, then the NEED for that is likely to be pretty small! :lecturef_smilie:So if you feel reasonably confident you can do a brake bleed yourself, go ahead - most of the time you don't NEED to go to the dealer to bleed the brakes/activate &/or purge the ABS module after simply changing the brake pads. But remember, they ARE your brakes & as such, are a pretty important safety feature - so if you're not reasonably confident you can do it properly yourself, then it might be smart to find someone who is to help &/or do it for you.... altho that's not necessarily a dealer!
hyea: Just about any competent home spanner spinner is up to this sorta stuff, especially with some knowledgeable guidance; but if you feel the need of engaging a 'professional' then most good brake service techs should be able to do 99.89% of what needs to be done; and 99% of the time, once that 'basic brake bleed' is done (without the ABS activation/purge) & the pads are seated properly &/or the low pressure switch has been re-set (if you triggered that particular issue/code/warning) then all it'll take to get rid of any remaining 'active brake related codes' is about 30 metres of gentle & careful ryding, with a brake application or two during that time/distance.....
Go on, give it a go! You Know you want to! :thumbup:
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The only reason you'd need the dealer to bleed the brakes is if you HAD to activate the ABS module to purge it of trapped air/old fluid....
So if you feel reasonably confident you can do a brake bleed yourself, go ahead - most of the time you don't NEED to go to the dealer to bleed the brakes/activate &/or purge the ABS module after simply changing the brake pads. But remember, they ARE your brakes & as such, are a pretty important safety feature - so if you're not reasonably confident you can do it properly yourself, then it might be smart to find someone who is to help &/or do it for you.... altho that's not necessarily a dealer!
Just about any competent home spanner spinner is up to this sorta stuff, especially with some knowledgeable guidance; but if you feel the need of engaging a 'professional' then most good brake service techs should be able to do 99.89% of what needs to be done; and 99% of the time, once that 'basic brake bleed' is done (without the ABS activation/purge) & the pads are seated properly &/or the low pressure switch has been re-set (if you triggered that particular issue/code/warning) then all it'll take to get rid of any remaining 'active brake related codes' is about 30 metres of gentle & careful ryding, with a brake application or two during that time/distance.....
Go on, give it a go! You Know you want to! :thumbup:
I am fairly confident with bleeding brakes. But how do you clear/reset the codes?
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
The only reason you'd need the dealer to bleed the brakes is if you HAD to activate the ABS module to purge it of trapped air/old fluid....
So if you feel reasonably confident you can do a brake bleed yourself, go ahead - most of the time you don't NEED to go to the dealer to bleed the brakes/activate &/or purge the ABS module after simply changing the brake pads. But remember, they ARE your brakes & as such, are a pretty important safety feature - so if you're not reasonably confident you can do it properly yourself, then it might be smart to find someone who is to help &/or do it for you.... altho that's not necessarily a dealer!
Just about any competent home spanner spinner is up to this sorta stuff, especially with some knowledgeable guidance; but if you feel the need of engaging a 'professional' then most good brake service techs should be able to do 99.89% of what needs to be done; and 99% of the time, once that 'basic brake bleed' is done (without the ABS activation/purge) & the pads are seated properly &/or the low pressure switch has been re-set (if you triggered that particular issue/code/warning) then all it'll take to get rid of any remaining 'active brake related codes' is about 30 metres of gentle & careful ryding, with a brake application or two during that time/distance.....
Go on, give it a go! You Know you want to! :thumbup:
:agree: and let me add .... the amount of fluid in the ABA module system is quite small and will have little effect on your Braking ability .... If you do a normal " brake bleed " ( I did on my RT ) and do it correctly you will be fine ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:
billybovine
Active member
A lot of guessing going on. You say you have several codes but do not tell us what they are? Why not get the fault code and that may point to the action you need to take. Turn on the key. When the check engine light comes on. Press the mode, set and turn cancel buttons at the same time. The active fault codes will display on the screen. Post them here and someone will tell what to do next.
....... and 99% of the time, once that 'basic brake bleed' is done (without the ABS activation/purge) & the pads are seated properly &/or the low pressure switch has been re-set (if you triggered that particular issue/code/warning) then all it'll take to get rid of any remaining 'active brake related codes' is about 30 metres of gentle & careful ryding, with a brake application or two during that time/distance.....
......
Generally, if the codes & limp mode etc you are seeing are the same as those many encounter when they do this particular job, then as highlighted in my post & quoted/bolded above, all it usually takes to clear the codes/limp mode is a little careful & gentle riding with a gentle brake application or two....
hyea: However, as Billy's post above suggests, there IS a little guessing as to exactly what codes you may be seeing going on?!? :dontknow: But still, if ALL you've done/that's occurred is what you've told us, there's a reasonable possibility that there's nothing drastic going on....
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TicketBait
RT-S PE#0412
Update on my code issues
I posted a couple weeks back that after replacing the rear drive belt and pulley on my 2013 rt limited I have several fault codes. I was scheduled to take it to the dealer today but decided to try to take it for a short ride as was suggested in another post. After just about a block all warnings went away except brake failure. After more reading I found that the system is very touchy to brake fluid levels. I added a little brake fluid and so far all is well! Thanks to everyone who responded. Now I can start looking into some performance upgrades
I posted a couple weeks back that after replacing the rear drive belt and pulley on my 2013 rt limited I have several fault codes. I was scheduled to take it to the dealer today but decided to try to take it for a short ride as was suggested in another post. After just about a block all warnings went away except brake failure. After more reading I found that the system is very touchy to brake fluid levels. I added a little brake fluid and so far all is well! Thanks to everyone who responded. Now I can start looking into some performance upgrades
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
Thank you for the update. Not everyone is forthcoming with the information after they receive a good answer from the site.
Oh I’m extremely grateful for the information/help. Hopefully one day I’ll have the knowledge to help someone else
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
I posted a couple weeks back that after replacing the rear drive belt and pulley on my 2013 rt limited I have several fault codes. I was scheduled to take it to the dealer today but decided to try to take it for a short ride as was suggested in another post. After just about a block all warnings went away except brake failure. After more reading I found that the system is very touchy to brake fluid levels. I added a little brake fluid and so far all is well! Thanks to everyone who responded. Now I can start looking into some performance upgrades
Thanks for the added info ...... I won't get into the technical reasons , but trust me - if you want more performance you MUST start with having the ECU re-programmed ( go to Monster Fuel for all the info you need ) .... NOTHING else you try will do ANYTHING, until the ECU is changed .... cost about $375 for about 25HP - guaranteed ..... Post a thread asking how other members feel about this ..... Mike :thumbup:
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