2012 RT experiencing mushy brakes

[Hobie1]

I installed after market floor boards and a larger brake pedal with riser on my 2012 RT about 1500 miles ago. Recently I was slowing down from about 60mph to make a turn. When the brakes were applied, the pedal felt mushy or soft and it took longer than normal to stop. I pulled off on a side road and did a few hard stops and I felt that I had to put way too much pressure on the pedal to stop. When I got home, I checked the brake fluid and it looked fine. I depressed the brake pedal and saw that my brake pedal is hitting the floor board. My question is why the pedal is hitting the floor board now? I had room between the pedal and the board for 1500 miles. I took the bike to a dealership and was told my brake pressure was at 1000 psi and well within specs. The tech said the problem was my floor boards. I reinstalled the OEM brake pedal and went for a ride. The pedal does not contact the floor board but the brakes still feel mushy. Any ideas or suggestions?

 

[jjc54]

How long has it been since you have replaced your brake fluid?

 

[Peter Aawen]

How long has it been since you have replaced your brake fluid?

Further to that, is the fluid level in the reservoir down even the slightest bit?? And how worn are your brake pads?? However, A/mkt floor boards & large pedals have been known to cause exactly this sort of issue, so maybe that is the cause of your initial problem, and maybe now you are left second guessing yourself about how it feels? I say that, cos the brakes on the pre-2013 Spyders (when they got the 15" wheels & Brembo Brakes all round!) were always a bit 'mushy' anyway, but do they usually stop you pretty well if they're in good condition.

 

[Hobie1]

I have about 8k on the pads. Didn’t write down when brake fluid was changed last but the fluid looks clean. The level was at the max fill line.

 

[Peter Aawen]

I have about 8k on the pads. Didn’t write down when brake fluid was changed last but the fluid looks clean. The level was at the max fill line.

The fact that it's been fine for a while and has only recently started doing this, despite the pressure being good, sorta suggests that it's a wear or low fluid issue.

Many Spyder Riders have discovered that their brake problems go away simply by adding a little bit more brake fluid to the reservoir, even if it does look like it's at the max fill mark! And are the caps facing the rear, with the 'V' in the rubber membrane thing facing the same way?? Both are seemingly minor, but can cause this sort of thing?!

Do you have a moisture tester?? Brake fluid can 'look' clean when it's first been contaminated with water &/or condensation, but once the moisture level gets up over about 1.5/2%, it really isn't likely going to work too well and the pedal tends to feel mushier and mushier the hotter the brakes get, possibly until you get no pedal at all!!

So maybe it 'looks' clean, but it's just not up to doing the job?? Or maybe it's none of those and we're all barking up the wrong tree. Have you checked to see if you've got a leak somewhere? Or could it be that one of the original flexible hoses has now deteriorated inside so much that it expands a little bit every time you put your foot on the pedal - enough to make for a spongier than normal pedal?? Maybe if it's not any of the usual suspects &/or any of the obvious things, then possibly it's time to take it to a brake specialist?

 

[Hobie1]

I topped off the brake fluid by filling it just to the bottom of the reservoir neck and made sure the caps were correctly aligned. Rode the bike through my neighborhood where there are stop signs on every corner. The brakes don’t seem to have any “bite” until the pedal is fully depressed. The brake lines that I can see look ok and there are no visible leaks. The pads look fine. The investigation continues…..

 

[racoon]

I have about 8k on the pads. Didn’t write down when brake fluid was changed last but the fluid looks clean. The level was at the max fill line.

Looking "clean" does not mean the brake fluid is good.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means over time it absorbs moisture from the air. Water is more compressible than brake fluid, so brake functions degrade.

I don't have a copy of the 2012 Operator's Guide, but the 2011 guide says to replace the brake fluid every 20 000 km (12,000mi) or 2 years.

The Operators Guide for my 2024 Spyder says to replace the brake fluid every 2 years, regardless of mileage.

Your brake fluid is overdue to be replaced.
I would start with a complete flush of the brake system.

 

[Mikey]

Will the pedal get harder if you give it a double pump? What does your rotor look like, smooth, no ridges? Pulsating?

 

[BajaRon]

First step would be to bleed your brakes, all 3. If that does not resolve the problem, you may well need a new master cylinder. Quite common on the older, Chinese brake systems. If it is your master cylinder, it will continue to deteriorate as you use it.

 

[Hobie1]

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. I’m going to rattle around in my tool chests for a brake fluid tester. Bleeding all 3 brakes is next. These older Spyder’s have a steep learning curve for maintenance.

 

[Mikey]

Tell me about it, I battled a brake issue for a friends 2012 RTL this year; wow, about beat me up! But after some help from the guy's here on the site, and a few talks with Ron on the phone, I crawled out of the rabbit hole the winner!!!

 

[KX5062]

As stated, the older Spyders had Chinese brakes that were knock-off Brembo units. They were not that good and were replaced by real Brembo Brakes on the newer models. Can Am wouldn't have bitten that bullet unless they were forced.