2012 RSS SM5 - What oil?

[Marta919]

Hi,
I am kind of new here and i was trying to look for answer before i decided to add a post.

I need to do my first oil change since i bought my Spyder, I got it used and i did 3k miles.

Can you please let me if i should just go ahead and buy a set called "2010-2013 Can-Am Spyder RS(s) Roadster(SM5) Maintenance Kit" for my model from Amazon for $62.99 or you have a better source to buy Oil and Oil Filter? I have someone who will change the oil for me- i just have to bring oil and filter.

Thanks a lot for your help.

 

[Chupaca]

Welcome. ..

:welcome: Lots to read about oils here. BajaRon has quality oil and filters and is a sponsor/vendor here. You can also get oil from your local autoparts and many stores. You must get motorcyle oil that meets the spec's in your manual. If in doubt use the BRP oil online or at a dealer. I have been using the BRP blend kits I get online and have never had any problems. It comes with all you need for an oil change. :thumbup:

 

[Marta919]

Thanks a lot for the answer, i'll buy the kit for the first time

I see you have the same baby as mine How many miles do you have on yours? Is it reliable? I would like to travel everywhere but i am not sure how reliable this engine is.

What did you add to your Spyder? I am looking for heated grips and also power outlets. I know they have power outlet kit which is on the trunk but i want an extra one somewhere by my my cell phone.

I'm not sure why my profile picture doesn't show, maybe i should write more posts.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

OIL & FILTER

Hi,
I am kind of new here and i was trying to look for answer before i decided to add a post.

I need to do my first oil change since i bought my Spyder, I got it used and i did 3k miles.

Can you please let me if i should just go ahead and buy a set called "2010-2013 Can-Am Spyder RS(s) Roadster(SM5) Maintenance Kit" for my model from Amazon for $62.99 or you have a better source to buy Oil and Oil Filter? I have someone who will change the oil for me- i just have to bring oil and filter.

Thanks a lot for your help.

I'm very anal about my Spyder and this is what I use .... get your filters from BAJARON ( a site sponsor/vendor here - on home page ) .... And I use Full Synthetic 10/40 Valvoline 4 stroke mtc Oil .... in silver container from Walmart ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Bob Denman]

:welcome:
I use what BRP says to use in my :spyder2:
After all: they're the ones who built the bike!

 

[Smokinspyder]

Last summer I changed to Amsoil, and I like it so far. My first 09 I used the BRP kit since all of the parts were in it.


OHH and Baja Ron is AWESOME!!!

 

[BigGuy66]

I suggest that you get the oil change kit from BajaRon that way you know you got the right one. I bought the filter kit, and I used Amsoil from a friend of mine who has a small shop and I threw him some business. Before I did my oil change, I bought the Valvoline (silver) to top off the oil. Like they said, lots on here about oil...

 

[Rob Rodriguez]

I have a 2012 RS and its been very reliable. About 14,000 miles and only some small issues. Nothing that has kept me from riding. I don't hesitate to take 3-4 day long trips with it at all. 2012 was known to be a pretty rock solid year for the RS-S. You should be fine.

 

[amusher]

I have a 2012 RS SM5 with over 37,000 on it. I buy filters and O-rings from the dealer and use Rotella T6 oil. I think the 2012 RSs are very reliable and I'm planning some long distance trips this summer.

 

[PistonBlown]

The 'old' GS/RS's (2008-2012) are probably the most reliable model of Spyder out there and having the 2012 means you've got the final year with all the minor niggles of previous years sorted out.

The Rotax engine is very reliable. It's very seldom you see any engine issues on this site - there's a number of them with 100,000+. Don't know what mileage yours is but initially they do use a little oil between services but that improves over time as the engine beds in.

One thing to check is around the rear fender as these suffer from a bit of vibration. Because of this just check the bolts holding the rear number plates, fender struts, etc in place each time you service as these can loosen - plenty of blue locktite stops them coming loose again. This vibration can even crack the rear struts for the fender, though the 2012's were supposed to have a different strengthening bracket to prevent this. The cracking isn't a major issue (though its a pain if it starts on a big trip). If it happens then it's simple enough to get the struts re-welded and strengthened at the same time.

For the extra power. There is a fuse box under a black cover when you open your 'frunk'. There are who relays for auxiliary devices you can connect to, F3 and F6. One is switched and one isn't but I can't remember which is which

Or alternatively there is a live and ground connectors under the rear of your seat that a lot of us use. These are connected directly to the battery and intended as an easy place to add a battery tender but you can run your own circuit off these. Obviously it needs an inline fuse and isn't switched. If you do this just make sure there's no way the wires could rub when the seat is down. I've used this approach and have my own switch on the circuit so it's independent from the ignition. I run my GPS, Radar detector and an aux plug for phone etc on mine.

 

[Buckskin]

Any chance of a picture of that live and ground connector under the seat? Seems that would be a little bit cleaner to bring some power to the handlebars and GPS.
Buckskin

The 'old' GS/RS's (2008-2012) are probably the most reliable model of Spyder out there and having the 2012 means you've got the final year with all the minor niggles of previous years sorted out.

The Rotax engine is very reliable. It's very seldom you see any engine issues on this site - there's a number of them with 100,000+. Don't know what mileage yours is but initially they do use a little oil between services but that improves over time as the engine beds in.

One thing to check is around the rear fender as these suffer from a bit of vibration. Because of this just check the bolts holding the rear number plates, fender struts, etc in place each time you service as these can loosen - plenty of blue locktite stops them coming loose again. This vibration can even crack the rear struts for the fender, though the 2012's were supposed to have a different strengthening bracket to prevent this. The cracking isn't a major issue (though its a pain if it starts on a big trip). If it happens then it's simple enough to get the struts re-welded and strengthened at the same time.

For the extra power. There is a fuse box under a black cover when you open your 'frunk'. There are who relays for auxiliary devices you can connect to, F3 and F6. One is switched and one isn't but I can't remember which is which

Or alternatively there is a live and ground connectors under the rear of your seat that a lot of us use. These are connected directly to the battery and intended as an easy place to add a battery tender but you can run your own circuit off these. Obviously it needs an inline fuse and isn't switched. If you do this just make sure there's no way the wires could rub when the seat is down. I've used this approach and have my own switch on the circuit so it's independent from the ignition. I run my GPS, Radar detector and an aux plug for phone etc on mine.

 

[PistonBlown]

Any chance of a picture of that live and ground connector under the seat? Seems that would be a little bit cleaner to bring some power to the handlebars and GPS.
Buckskin

This photo shows the wiring to the two points I mentioned. However note how the cover negative wire looks a bit squashed by the seat where it runs over the frame. Since taking this I've re-routed it properly, running cables under the frame/cover - hence my comment


Here is a common position to add an extra power outlet on the dash. Some people put one either side. You can just see the switch I've added on the right behind the GPS mount. I used a marine quality switch so it was completely waterproof:


Its very easy to remove the clocks so you can do all your wiring behind them. The manual says you need to remove the screen and safety card but instead just:
1. Bend the end of an old tea spoon like this (or use a bit of fencing wire, metal etc):

There are two little spaces at the top of the clocks on either side:

Simply hook the spoon in one side at a time and 'click' the clocks out a bit.


The top of the clocks with come loose and you can swivel then down and away - there's just one cable to unplug if you want to completely remove them to give yourself plenty of space. When putting clocks back simply get the bottom edge in the right place first and then push the top until it clicks.

 

[jaherbst]

Check the search above for questions like these. There are literally thousands of similar questions with

thousands of different answers. Read all of these then ask this same question over again.

After all that, read the owners manual and see what it says. Then make up your OWN mind and buy some

oil. Do the same when you buy tires please. The answer is the same.

Welcome to the Web Site of a million opinions. Few of which are very reliable, but with a cup of Folgers in

the morning will help wake you up. :yikes:

Jack

 

[Marta919]

I have a 2012 RS SM5 with over 37,000 on it. I buy filters and O-rings from the dealer and use Rotella T6 oil. I think the 2012 RSs are very reliable and I'm planning some long distance trips this summer.

37k Miles is awesome !!!
I have 8,900 miles on mine and i rode it for one season so far. I also have a Manual since i am into motorcycles also
I am glad My Spyder should be a reliable one -I will test it long distance on Memorial Weekend going to Arkansas to Ozarks

I think i need to buy a better windshield though

 

[Marta919]

The 'old' GS/RS's (2008-2012) are probably the most reliable model of Spyder out there and having the 2012 means you've got the final year with all the minor niggles of previous years sorted out.

The Rotax engine is very reliable. It's very seldom you see any engine issues on this site - there's a number of them with 100,000+. Don't know what mileage yours is but initially they do use a little oil between services but that improves over time as the engine beds in.

One thing to check is around the rear fender as these suffer from a bit of vibration. Because of this just check the bolts holding the rear number plates, fender struts, etc in place each time you service as these can loosen - plenty of blue locktite stops them coming loose again. This vibration can even crack the rear struts for the fender, though the 2012's were supposed to have a different strengthening bracket to prevent this. The cracking isn't a major issue (though its a pain if it starts on a big trip). If it happens then it's simple enough to get the struts re-welded and strengthened at the same time.

For the extra power. There is a fuse box under a black cover when you open your 'frunk'. There are who relays for auxiliary devices you can connect to, F3 and F6. One is switched and one isn't but I can't remember which is which

Or alternatively there is a live and ground connectors under the rear of your seat that a lot of us use. These are connected directly to the battery and intended as an easy place to add a battery tender but you can run your own circuit off these. Obviously it needs an inline fuse and isn't switched. If you do this just make sure there's no way the wires could rub when the seat is down. I've used this approach and have my own switch on the circuit so it's independent from the ignition. I run my GPS, Radar detector and an aux plug for phone etc on mine.

Thanks a lot for the advise !! It will be my weekend project- i need some power for my phone/gps
I hope I can follow

 

[PistonBlown]

On the reliability front I forgot to say I do Iron butt rallies on my 2011 RS without any issues. The last one I did meant I clocked up 3556 km (2209 miles) in a weekend and the route included a number of rough dirt tracks and even a section that meant riding down a dried up river bed (which wasn't so dried up as it should have been as it was raining) yet the Spyder did me proud.

 

[Marta919]

On the reliability front I forgot to say I do Iron butt rallies on my 2011 RS without any issues. The last one I did meant I clocked up 3556 km (2209 miles) in a weekend and the route included a number of rough dirt tracks and even a section that meant riding down a dried up river bed (which wasn't so dried up as it should have been as it was raining) yet the Spyder did me proud.

OMG !! That is awesome, I am preparing for IronButt also !!!! I a going with my club in August (club is all motorcycles - it's only me on Spyder) !!!! I need toprepare my Spyder too, i need to add power outlets and windshield, i also want to add heated grpis later this year, and i dream about a new exhaust
I have 9000 miles on it (just crossed 9k today) so i hope it will last me long

I am extremely disappointed Can-Am stopped RSS, this is heartbreaking, i am into sport motorcycles and sport cars, i love the sitting and leg positions in RSS and i will not buy F model because it is a cruiser so i really really want my RSS to work as long as possible since i can't replace it with a new one anymore

Thanks for all good words, i don't know anybody else riding Spyder so it is nice to read all good comments

 

[Marta919]

Hi All,
Thanks for all the advise i got, i am very happy,
Oil is changed - it took us 2h first time HAHA but now i can do it myself next time