2011RT brake switch replacement

[exwinger]

Is it necessary to remove the foot peg bolt to replace or test the brake switch ? It appears the peg bolt goes thru the switch bracket but can't really tell. I need to test the switch , have no brake lights but can hear the switch operating . Fuse is good , everything else controlled by the fuse works .

I also just had the wiring harness replaced and wondering if maybe it could also be a loose connection . All was working before the harness was replaced .

 

[Bob Denman]

If you can get up under the bike...
look at the back side of the pivot-point of the brake pedal. You should see a rod that runs rearward, and hooks up to a sort of a "bellcrank"-looking piece. The switch is (If I recall correctly...) at the rear side of that
bellcrank. The switch should be clicking twice, as it cycles through it's range of motion.

I'm not sure about this... You might be able to pull the right-hand side bodywork, and see the affected parts. That way, you don't have to play "Limbo", with the bike...

Good Luck! :thumbup:

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

A quick Go-No Go of the brake light switch would be to take the bike out and engage the cruise control - then hit the brake. If the cruise control disengages, your switch is OK. If everything was working before the harness was replaced, why the focus on the switch?

The other question to you would be do the other lamps in the tail light assemblies, i.e. tail lights, turn signals, etc. work? Or is it only the brake light function that is out. Everything to that whole assembly runs through what they call the Cargo Harness. So, if the entire assembly is dead, could be the harness. Assuming I'm reading this diagram right - which is a leap - the only common thread I see from the harness is connector CIC2 on the Cargo Harness. Check the connector and also the pins inside for any damage. Pin "C" I believe is the brake light function.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

The switch should be clicking twice, as it cycles through it's range of motion.

Good Luck! :thumbup:

Bob, Just to clarify. There are two switches under there. The Brake Light Switch (BLS) and the Low Pressure Switch (LPS). Despite its name, the LPS operates off the brake pedal position, not actual pressure. That's the one that gives the second click if brake pressure has been low because the pedal travels further. That's the one that needs reset after a low pressure is corrected. Under normal circumstances you should only hear one click from the BLS. Try it.

 

[exwinger]

It's fixed again

Finally got a call from the dealer ......spyder is repaired . Seems there was a missed connection after replacing my wiring harness. The dealer was very indignant when I took the spyder in and asked if just maybe they missed a connection . I originally wanted to check the brake switch itself because it would be the logical place to start if the fuse was good . I concluded it had to be a wiring connection then because all other functions worked and cruise did cancel . Now to see if they try to charge labor for their mistake. Bad thing is that I rode close to 2000 miles with no brake lights , could have been bad .