2011 RT/SE5 Battery Recommendations?

[gypsy_100]

BRP used the BS batteries for the first several years of production. The problem was that the dealers were not following the prep instructions and not filling the batteries, I think it was 48 hrs, before installing. BRP then changed to the prefilled.

Here's more info from Yuasa. All are excerpted quotes from their literature and tech manual:

FAQ - Can an AGM battery be installed in any position?

"In most applications, batteries are installed in an upright position, but in some situations, there is a need to tilt them (sometimes at very extreme angles) or lay them completely flat on their backs.
Yuasa typically supplies AGM batteries with separate acid packs that you must fill (and charge) yourself. We do not recommend that this type of battery be installed on its side, or even an extreme angle, due to possible leakage occurring.
Fortunately, Yuasa offers many AGM batteries as "Factory Activated". Generally, this type of battery is safe to install in almost any direction."

"Most Yuasa AGM batteries are available either “factory
activated” or as a dry battery with an acid pack. A “factory
activated” battery does not require filling before installation.
An extensive activation process ensures complete absorption
of the electrolyte so no liquid acid is contained within the
battery. This process allows these batteries to be shipped from
the factory ready to install."

Excerpt from their instructions for initial activation of AGM batteries (after filling with the supplied acid and letting the acid bottle drain into the battery for at least 20 minutes):

"For batteries with ratings of less than 18 AH, let the
battery stand for 20 to 60 minutes. For batteries with
higher AH ratings, and/or having the High Performance
rating (designated by an “H” in the part number/
name) allow the battery to stand for 1 to 2 hours."

"Newly activated AGM batteries require an initial
charge. After adding electrolyte, a new battery is
approximately 75-80% charged. After the “stand” period
(above), charge the battery to bring it to a full state-of-charge."

End of excerpts. There's much more detail in the manuals but the above gives the general idea. From my exchanges with Yuasa, it sounded to me like they do more than just the initial charge but also a couple specific charge and discharge cycles to be extra safe. Could well include the 48-hour stand you mention. As it says above - "An extensive activation process".

 

[Pennyrick]

My wife's '12 RT has been at the dealer for a few days as they worked to source the problems she has been having. It began on our October trip when she went into limp mode a few times with the code suggesting a communication problem internally. The Spyder was surging (my wife said the gas was coming in lumps) and generally running rough.

The dealer did a throttle body upgrade, but my wife still felt a small kick back at steady throttle and she also complained about the steering being hard on full turns. The dealer did a complete trace of the wiring harness from front to back but found no problems and checked the battery condition and while it showed the proper voltage it did not maintain a strong voltage under load conditions. They suspected the battery was either defective or not strong enough to support all the electronics on the Spyder.

When they called to inform us of this, I told them we had another dealer (now out of business) install a new battery in May of this year just before we left for SpyderFest. I checked back to the invoice and found that the battery installed was a DEKA ETX 18L rated at 18 AH, but apparently this battery really delivers about 10-12 AH once in service.

The current dealer tech told me that the DEKA is an excellent battery if all it is handling is the electrical system in a regular motorcycle, but that their experience has shown it isn't capable of handling the loads put on it by a Spyder's electrical system.

He recommended we go back to the OEM YTX 20 HC battery from YUASA. Once the YUASA was installed and the Spyder buttoned up and test driven, the steering assist was back to normal, and the throttle kick back went away. The tech suggested that the DEKA battery just wasn't up to the task of maintaining steady electronic support for the steering DPS, the ignition system, head, fog, accessory and trailer lights, sound system, throttle body actuator, VSS system, and all the other electronic stuff on the Spyder over the long haul. Maybe the Spyder life of the DEKA was probably ending after six months and 6,000 miles.

I have no idea if this is all true but it makes some sense to me, so I pass it along for what it is worth.

 

[cptjam]

Check out lithium ion batteries. I like MIRAI for motorcycle use. Light, powerful, warranted for years.

 

[Bob Denman]

Check out lithium ion batteries. I like MIRAI for motorcycle use. Light, powerful warranted, for years.

I seem to recall that these batteries have not exactly worked out as planned in the Spyders. Wasn't it Roger, who tried one, and it would barely spin the starter? :dontknow:
It seemed that it's not quite as simple as slapping them in the bike, and hitting the magic button... :shocked:
His might have been a Shorai brand battery; if that makes a difference...


Then again, I may be completely wrong here; please fill in the gaps in my information, and correct all of the mistakes...

 

[M109Dreamer]

I have been looking all over for alternative batteries and so far I still end up back to the Yuasa battety.

The only battery that I would consider so far other than another OEM battery would be the Odyssey. The main reason I don't care for the Odyssey battery is that it requires a different charger/tender for their battery. With the added cost of the battery and additional cost for a different battery tender it puts the total cost more than I cared for a battery.

I had a Odyssey battery in my 9, and it doesnt have near the electronics the spyder does and it only lasted 4 years. I didnt run a tender on it at all though. Where the stock battery on the Spyder with a tender has lasted longer than the Odyssey in the 9.

I think a big difference in the life of a battery is the tender/maintenance of it. This is also the reason I have gone back to the standard battery for the 9 and added a pigtail for the battery tender as well.

I bought a new battery for my M109 from this company, Pirate Battery. The battery was about 30% off compared to a stock Yuasa battery for my 9. I did add a battery tender pig tail for it. Pirate Battery has all kinds of MC and ATV batteries. So far so good with the battery for the 9. Figured I would post up the link to them, figured there are some here that have other battery needs other than the Spyder and might be looking for a cheaper alternative. Im still leaning towards the Yausa for the Spyder though.

http://chromebattery.shopgate.com/category/333839

 

[Pennyrick]

One thing I forgot to mention in my previous post was the importance of preparation prior to initial charge.

Soaking the plates with the electrolyte before charging is the way to prolong the life of the battery.

If the battery is put on charge immediately after filling with electrolyte it doesn't get the proper soaking to penetrate the plates needed to keep it running properly. If it is fast charged, as some dealerships do, that makes it even worse.

My tech poured the electrolyte into the battery before he left for the evening and let it sit on the workbench overnight. The next day he put it on trickle charge for about six hours and then installed it in the Spyder.

Any other way, he claims is not proper customer service.

I like this tech!!!

 

[Bob Denman]

So do I! :clap: :thumbup: