2011 RSS will not start

[hollybry]

Have a 2011 RSS SE5 that will not start.
i have put in a new battery thinking that the old one was bad.
I turn the key to on, go through the start up sequence. It turns over, but will not fire.
Well, I take that back. It did fire once, and I had to keep feathering the throttle to keep it running or else it would die.
It ran very, very rough, but I had to keep giving it throttle. Once it died, I could not get it to start again.
It ran fine the last time i was on it. Parked it, went to start it 5 days later and now it is like this.
Does this sound like the vacuum lines?
Any suggestions on what I can try?

 

[quasi]

do you hear the fuel pump run when you turn the key on? if not check the relays. do you park it outside? if parking outside I would check the air intake tube for blockage such as a chipmunk nest or something. easy things first.

 

[hollybry]

Thank you. I will check those things.

 

[Chupaca]

Bummer.....

Check as mentioned above and also check the throttle body intake boots and the vaccum hoses as these will dry and crack. If sitting for some time you may need to change the fuel and possibly the fuel filter....:thumbup:

 

[billybovine]

Do your normal startup routine. But before you press the start button. Twist the throttle to full open and hold it there while cranking the engine. Press the start button for 5 seconds letting the engine crank. Stop and wait 1 minute to let the starter motor cool. Then do it again. Wait one minute. Then do a normal start without holding the throttle wide open. If you have been trying to start it for a while. You may have run done the battery. So you may need to charge it or connect booster cables.

PS If you need to boost it. The jumper posts are under the seat. Do not need to get to the battery.

 

[hollybry]

Thank you! I will try these suggestions too!

 

[hollybry]

Ok. So I tried the WOT start and that didn't seem to do anything. Let it sit for a few minutes and tried starting it normally. Had to keep feathering the throttle to keep it running. Eventually, I let off the throttle and it stayed running at idle.
At idle and giving it quick throttle to rev the engine, it still sounds rough. A little backfiring or popping from the exhaust occurs too.
It does have the two brothers juice box and HMF exhaust if that makes a difference.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Did it ever run right? I’d suggest uninstalling the juice box. You don’t need it. And checking / replacing the vacuum lines sure won’t hurt anything.

 

[hollybry]

It has been running great! I just got it in May. The juice box was preinstalled as was the aftermarket exhaust. I assumed if you did the after market exhaust, you needed the juice box to properly program the air and gas mixture?

 

[hollybry]

Pulled the air filter. Looks fine, although there is an oily residue in the bottom of the box. Is this normal?

 

[ARtraveler]

Ok. So I tried the WOT start and that didn't seem to do anything. Let it sit for a few minutes and tried starting it normally. Had to keep feathering the throttle to keep it running. Eventually, I let off the throttle and it stayed running at idle.
At idle and giving it quick throttle to rev the engine, it still sounds rough. A little backfiring or popping from the exhaust occurs too.
It does have the two brothers juice box and HMF exhaust if that makes a difference.

There have been a lot of issues with juice boxes and some of the early aftermarket exhaust. Both are possibilities here.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Well, as long as you're in there looking at stuff, the vacuum hoses are on the left side of throttle body. A little oil residue in the air filter housing is common. The crankcase breather goes to the air-box. Your motor uses an oxygen sensor to control an electronic fuel injection system to maintain proper air-fuel ratio. Normally, with a change to only the exhaust, the V-twin motor can re-adjust just fine without any add on fuel controller. A lot of juice boxes were installed that caused problems because the two systems can fight each other. Keep that as Plan B. However, if it WAS running just fine and now something has changed so that it's not, keep looking around. OEM plug wires in 2011 were junk also.

 

[youngers]

holleybre

did you by chance get a tank full of gas just before you stopped riding ? { I think I remember you saying you put the cycle in the garage right ? } if you left her out , ohhh 4 nights ago , she got flooded from the torrential down pours we had , if you need extra pair of eyes let me know , right around the corner from you ! :ani29:

 

[hollybry]

I will double check those vacuum lines again. Pulled one off. It was nice and supple with no cracks. The other one is brown and looks like maybe it had been replaced with a silicon hose. I will get it pulled off and check it real good.
There is a small crack on the throttle body boot where it bolts to the head. Is this normal?
Unfortunately, my spyder is left outside. But it is always covered with a very good spyder cover and has never been wet underneath the cover nor has it been in rain without the cover.

 

[Rob Rodriguez]

If you have a crack in the boot you will want to inspect it more closely. Apply some pressure on the outside of the boot with your finger (like you are poking it) and see if it deforms or if you can stick your finger through it.

Whatever compound the boot is made out of is not ethanol friendly and the ethanol will "eat" the boots from the inside out. BRP has had a big issue with this on their snowmobiles. Might not be your problem but a crack on that boot would not be normal.