Greenhorse
New member
I'm trying to compress the rear brake piston with no luck. The front brakes were easy but I'm struggling with the back. I don't think they screw in as the bike is a 2011 but I could use some help. Any ideas ?
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2011 RS S rear brake help
- Thread starter Greenhorse
- Start date
Greenhorse
New member
My bike has round black disc that the parking brake cable connects to. I removed the parking brake cable, the black disc - like piece. The shaft going into the caliper seems to only rotate clockwise. There is a large hex nut that seems to be part of the shaft assembly, but I did not remove it. Should I have ?
Chupaca
New member
Brakes...
If the park brake was adjusted due to wear you may have to remove that nut and pull the black wheel off the shaft to release the shaft...to allow the piston to retract. If the piston gets a bit sideways you may have to lightly pump the pedal to get it straight as well...:thumbup:
If the park brake was adjusted due to wear you may have to remove that nut and pull the black wheel off the shaft to release the shaft...to allow the piston to retract. If the piston gets a bit sideways you may have to lightly pump the pedal to get it straight as well...:thumbup:
Greenhorse
New member
Well, no luck today on this project. Removed the circular spring loaded piece. To see if the piston was jammed I tried rotating it's shaft CLOCKWISE, the piston moved in, against the pads and back out when I rotated it COUNTERCLOCKWISE but only to a point.
The hex nut on the shaft is 30 mm and after loosening it, found that it is really part or a 2pc. shaft. Ended up removing the whole 2 pc. shaft. With the shaft out, I can squeeze the piston in quite a bit in, but it comes right back out of it's bore. Acts like it is spring loaded. So, all and all, nothing worked.
Purchased manual on line today, should be here by the weekend. We'll give that a try.
The hex nut on the shaft is 30 mm and after loosening it, found that it is really part or a 2pc. shaft. Ended up removing the whole 2 pc. shaft. With the shaft out, I can squeeze the piston in quite a bit in, but it comes right back out of it's bore. Acts like it is spring loaded. So, all and all, nothing worked.
Purchased manual on line today, should be here by the weekend. We'll give that a try.
cptjam
Registered User
Fluid
Try opening the bleeder valve, or, open the caps on the master cylinder. Use the c clamp to press the piston flush. Insert pads, re install. Did you remove the caliper from the mount? Put the 30 mm nut and those shafts back on.
If you are still struggling Monday, call me. Number listed below. Joe
Try opening the bleeder valve, or, open the caps on the master cylinder. Use the c clamp to press the piston flush. Insert pads, re install. Did you remove the caliper from the mount? Put the 30 mm nut and those shafts back on.
If you are still struggling Monday, call me. Number listed below. Joe
Last edited:
Greenhorse
New member
Joe,
Did everything you mentioned so I will gladly call you today. Thanks for the offer.
Steve. :banghead:
Did everything you mentioned so I will gladly call you today. Thanks for the offer.
Steve. :banghead:
Greenhorse
New member
Success
Joe,
with a new look at the problem and a different squeeze method, the caliper with the new pads are in place. More work to be done still but a good afternoon.
Steve :yes:
Joe,
with a new look at the problem and a different squeeze method, the caliper with the new pads are in place. More work to be done still but a good afternoon.
Steve :yes:
Greenhorse
New member
The method
First I used a 30 MM deep well socket over the parking brake shaft along with a very very big c-clamp to squeeze the piston into the caliper. I left the clamp on there for about 20 minutes. Then cracked the bleeder open a little and rotated the caliper so that the bleeder was straight up.
While that was cooking, I clamped the new pads to my rotor ( one on each side) and fit a spacer where the pins go thru the holes and my spacer. When I removed the clamp, I took my pads with spacers and placed them in position and snugged the pins in place. Spacers keep the bottom of the pads spread. Used a flat tip screwdriver to spread the top of the pads open and slide the unit onto the disk. Install the short bolts into the horse shoe like mounting plate and snug them up. Finally, one by one remove the pins that hold the pads in place, remove your temporary spacers and re-install the mounting pins. The whole job only three days!
First I used a 30 MM deep well socket over the parking brake shaft along with a very very big c-clamp to squeeze the piston into the caliper. I left the clamp on there for about 20 minutes. Then cracked the bleeder open a little and rotated the caliper so that the bleeder was straight up.
While that was cooking, I clamped the new pads to my rotor ( one on each side) and fit a spacer where the pins go thru the holes and my spacer. When I removed the clamp, I took my pads with spacers and placed them in position and snugged the pins in place. Spacers keep the bottom of the pads spread. Used a flat tip screwdriver to spread the top of the pads open and slide the unit onto the disk. Install the short bolts into the horse shoe like mounting plate and snug them up. Finally, one by one remove the pins that hold the pads in place, remove your temporary spacers and re-install the mounting pins. The whole job only three days!
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