2011 battery

[jcthorne]

Your logic is flawed.
Just because they failed to mention the -BS option does NOT mean that they are recommending "against" it.

And often shipping a battery with acid already IN IT can be a problem.

But I do agree with your conclusion. Just find a local bike dealer or battery shop that has the right one and trade in your old one for recycling.
Like a lot of other things, no need to make it harder than it IS. :thumbup:

I think you are missing one piece of data. BRP Published a tech bulletin stating NOT to use the -BS version. Now granted, this was back during the 998 era which had a very different charging system, but they never changed the recommendation. We now stock the battery for our local customers and install them. All about making it easy. For the ones we sell, we take care of the recycling as well.

 

[Easy Rider]

For the ones we sell, we take care of the recycling as well.

That's good......since it is a legal requirement for battery retailers......isn't it ??
:dontknow:

 

[Motorcycledave]

I am having a problem verifying the proper battery for a 2011 RT Limited. I came up with Yasau YTX24HL-BS. Looking it up on various sites say it is possibly the wrong part number. I don't have that spyder here to compare the original battery. Appreciate anyone who can verify this.

Take the battery out and go to Batteries plus, Costco, Auto Zone, they all have the right battery for you

 

[wingit3611]

A couple of years ago, I wanted a "factory activated" battery and bought it directly from the Yuasa corporate web site. Paid that premium for that. As it turns out, what they did was forward that purchase order to the nearest distributor to me, and they sent me a -BS battery. Of course I made that WTF phone call to them. After about 30 minutes, they had me convinced that a "factory activation" was nothing more than performing the exact procedure in the instructions that Yuasa sent out with that -BS battery. I could send it back and have them do the exact same thing to it if I wanted. But the shipping would cost even more to return it to me because it was now a filled and activated battery instead of an inert battery. So, after a little shopping around to purchase a modern battery charger with an AGM setting, the "factory activation" was performed by me using the factory activation instructions provided by the factory. And it was all good.
(What is the different in an "AGM Charger" and a regular one? If you use a regular one will it hurt an AGM battery? Will a 2013 RT Limited charging system be compatible with an AGM battery and work OK?)

The point is that nobody here was ever suggesting that a person simply put acid in the battery and slap it right into a Spyder and expect the charging system to do this. And nobody was suggesting that a person put in the acid and just slap it on any old battery charger without following the proper procedure. That's agreed. The instructions are provided by the factory in order to perform a proper activation. If a person can read, has the correct charger, and can do basic math, they can do a correct activation.

It's incorrect to simply make the blanket statement that a -BS battery is the wrong one, or can't be properly activated at home. And after my experience with the whole thing, it's my personal opinion that this mythical "factory activation" is just that.

BTW Roger, that is one sweet looking machine.

Is a AGM battery compatible with a 2013 RTL?? Looks like I got ccarried away>

 

[Easy Rider]

Is a AGM battery compatible with a 2013 RTL?? Looks like I got ccarried away>

Yes.

And AGM batteries do not NEED any special treatment.
They were made as a drop-in replacement for wet-cell batteries and they do a fine job of that.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Is a AGM battery compatible with a 2013 RTL?? Looks like I got ccarried away>

No Problem. My long time battery charger was just a Sears 2a/10a 30 dollar charger. Looking at the curves in a charger manual, an AGM battery will have a slightly different charging rate over time profile than a typical flooded cell battery, and definitely different than a gel cell battery. Thus, a good micro-processor battery charger will have settings for all three, plus possibly even for a marine battery, and include a maintaining / desulfation mode. The Yuasa battery that comes standard in your Spyder was, in fact, an AGM battery. This whole conversation here is pretty much a battle of opinions. There were two service bulletins, one in 2011 and another in 2012, regarding the battery. I found them in the back of my Green Manual. Neither of them was telling dealers NOT to use a -BS battery. Rather, they were reminding dealers that, even though the battery in new units came pre-filled with acid and was showing a voltage output, that they still needed an initial charge first. BRP was calling the battery "activated", even though it had ONLY been filled. The initial charge, however, was NOT being done at the factory. Terminology issue. The bulletins then explained how to do that. So, in actuality, the dealers themselves were doing the so called "factory activation" on new Spyder batteries. With the proper charger and your ability to read and following instructions, you are completely qualified and should feel comfortable doing an initial activation and charge on the Yuasa -BS battery. And the advantage is that you can buy it when it's on sale and keep it dry, only activating it when you need it.