Hi my name is John and am new to spyder bikes just purchased a used 2010 spyder rt-s and the bike has started acting like it is flooded when starting up. I do not touch the throttle when cranking it and was wondering is it possible to have fuel leaking in the carb or even if it has carbs or fuel injected. I have been riding bikes all my life and this is a new area for me. Any advice would greatly be helpful. Thanks
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2010 Spyder RT acts like it is flooded - any ideas?
- Thread starter jcg4u2000
- Start date
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Hi John, and welcome to Spyder World. You’re doing it right. You don’t touch the throttle for startup. The Spyder motor, in your case it is the Rotax 998, is fuel injected and throttle by wire. But yes…sometimes that motor could act like it is flooded. And yes, a fuel injected motor can get flooded. It just means that there was too much fuel, not enough air, and the plugs got wet. So, what to do about it.
If it just keeps cranking and refuses to fire, you do a thing called a Wide Open Throttle start. All fuel injected motors have that mode in the computer…even your passenger vehicle in your garage. BEFORE you begin cranking, hold the throttle wide open. That action tells the computer to cut off the fuel to allow the cylinders to clear out. THEN start cranking for about 10 seconds-ish. Then you release the throttle and try a normal start. Just don’t overheat the starter. Patience. Repeat if necessary.
And sometimes, we can trigger a flooded situation ourselves, by letting go of the start button too quickly and causing an aborted start. Don’t be in a hurry to release the button. The computer stops cranking when RPM increases, and there is a Sprag clutch in the gear train between the starter and crankshaft. You can’t break it. Just release the button when you have a start.
If it starts but runs rough and misses for a few seconds, or is giving you that flooded but trying to start behavior, then yes, you could simply have a dribbling injector. That overloads the cylinders on startup. It doesn’t take much. Do a fuel system cleanup with those Sea Foam or Lucas Oil fuel system cleaners. And if you don’t know much about the previous maintenance history, a thorough inspection of the intake system and air filter is necessary. Once you take off the mirrors and plastic panels the first time, it won’t be so scary.
An inherently common problem with the 998 is crappy plug wires and cracked vacuum hoses. I can’t and don’t want to go on for another 10 paragraphs about that, but it would be easy to do. A lot has already been written about those topics. Do a forum search for those topics. You can use Google to search this forum, too. Sometimes it’s easier. Also, read through this thread for items pertaining to your machine.
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...t-Do-s-and-Do-Nots-quot-for-new-Spyder-owners
If you need an Operator’s Guide, otherwise known as an owners manual, you can download one to your computer here.
https://www.operatorsguides.brp.com/index.php?productId=5
I’ve been running and dealing with my machine for 10 years. I love it but they have a personality and it’s a learning curve. PM me your number if you ever want to talk off line. Glad to help, as would all of us.
If it just keeps cranking and refuses to fire, you do a thing called a Wide Open Throttle start. All fuel injected motors have that mode in the computer…even your passenger vehicle in your garage. BEFORE you begin cranking, hold the throttle wide open. That action tells the computer to cut off the fuel to allow the cylinders to clear out. THEN start cranking for about 10 seconds-ish. Then you release the throttle and try a normal start. Just don’t overheat the starter. Patience. Repeat if necessary.
And sometimes, we can trigger a flooded situation ourselves, by letting go of the start button too quickly and causing an aborted start. Don’t be in a hurry to release the button. The computer stops cranking when RPM increases, and there is a Sprag clutch in the gear train between the starter and crankshaft. You can’t break it. Just release the button when you have a start.
If it starts but runs rough and misses for a few seconds, or is giving you that flooded but trying to start behavior, then yes, you could simply have a dribbling injector. That overloads the cylinders on startup. It doesn’t take much. Do a fuel system cleanup with those Sea Foam or Lucas Oil fuel system cleaners. And if you don’t know much about the previous maintenance history, a thorough inspection of the intake system and air filter is necessary. Once you take off the mirrors and plastic panels the first time, it won’t be so scary.
An inherently common problem with the 998 is crappy plug wires and cracked vacuum hoses. I can’t and don’t want to go on for another 10 paragraphs about that, but it would be easy to do. A lot has already been written about those topics. Do a forum search for those topics. You can use Google to search this forum, too. Sometimes it’s easier. Also, read through this thread for items pertaining to your machine.
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...t-Do-s-and-Do-Nots-quot-for-new-Spyder-owners
If you need an Operator’s Guide, otherwise known as an owners manual, you can download one to your computer here.
https://www.operatorsguides.brp.com/index.php?productId=5
I’ve been running and dealing with my machine for 10 years. I love it but they have a personality and it’s a learning curve. PM me your number if you ever want to talk off line. Glad to help, as would all of us.
Last edited:
MrMagicFingers
Member
First... welcome aboard John!
My wife has a 2010 RT-S as well. Last year was her first full season with this bike. We had service issues with the bike while on vacation with it last year and it ended up leaving us stranded and in limp home mode for much of our last day (because we had to come home).
Some of your symptoms are close to what we were experiencing. In our case, it was the Throttle Body that was the main issue. It was very gummed up and causing problems like yours when we tried to start it and other times it would start fine but die on us down the road. Turned out that the Throttle Body just needed to be cleaned and a simple modification done to the crank case venting system so this would not happen again.
If you check out this thread, you can compare your issues with ours....
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?149550-2010-RTS-unexplained-quitting-fixed-amp-some-Engine-mods
Also, a bad battery or battery that has loose terminals may cause starting issues as well in respect to not getting enough juice to properly fire the plugs.
Good luck!
Tim
Last edited by a moderator:
Bfromla
Well-known member
:welcome::congrats:agree with others, additional might just be bad gas. Hopefully not a full tank
Add some fresh gas(preferably ethanol free)91-93 octane & whatever additive you prefer. If you like any dealer should be able to check VIN# for recalls ,maybe even service history. Age of bike definitely recommend load testing the battery. Couple benefits: you get to learn more about working on bike & good clean tight terminals (with star washers) help prevent future battery issues, maybe add a charging pigtail for whatever maintainer (Not trickle charger)you prefer. Pleas let us know however/whatever works out
opcorn:
Add some fresh gas(preferably ethanol free)91-93 octane & whatever additive you prefer. If you like any dealer should be able to check VIN# for recalls ,maybe even service history. Age of bike definitely recommend load testing the battery. Couple benefits: you get to learn more about working on bike & good clean tight terminals (with star washers) help prevent future battery issues, maybe add a charging pigtail for whatever maintainer (Not trickle charger)you prefer. Pleas let us know however/whatever works out
opcorn:Thanks all. Right now it is running good but I am going to get plugs and wires plus do a in depth inspection while in the bike. I have already had several panels off as I have done oil change and filters plug highway pegs and drivers backrest install. I will let you know what I find and appreciate all the advice I can get.This is totally different than a regular 2 wheel bike that I am used to.
Update on my spyder so you all will know. I finally got all my parts in and did the air filter, plugs and wires and inspected all the hoses and vacuum lines while I had everything apart. I also changed the battery and put the pigtail for a maintainer on. It starts great now and runs great. Thanks for all your advice and now I have been deep into the bike
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