• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

2010 RT issues

monkeyman4394

New member
I picked up a 2010 RT a few weeks ago for my wife (she's too short to ride anything on two wheels). It evidently hasn't been maintained at all by its previous three owners, and some peculiar custom work has been performed on it. The lights on the analog clusters are incredibly dim and the analog tach works sporadically, but the digital cluster is clear and bright. Does anybody know whether the newer instrument clusters are compatible? Having a bright LED cluster with integrated GPS seems pretty attractive. Another weird detail is that the dipstick comes out completely dry when cold, but there's evidently plenty of oil present. I plan on trying to restore this neglected Spyder with its vague, sort of gooey controls to something that functions and feels precise and new. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
 
Interesting....🤔

As to the oil..... you can only get an accurate reading when the engine is at operating temp. Do not add any oil if you measure cold or you will have it coming out all over the place....The clusters (instruments) are not interchangeable so if yours are off as you say and you need a new cluster it would have to be the same one for the V-twin 998's. If you say they have made a lot of mods it may be something done may be affecting the cluster. Know that if you change it the only info you will have is the total hours of operation as mileage will be gone so keep a record of the mileage present. There is a daytime nightime sensor for the dash lights so it should be brghter at night. Some cover the sensor so they have the brighter lights all the time...:thumbup:9
 
Yup, I think you are heading in the right direction, peel her dress off and see what you have there!! Oil, filters, check all the fluids, brake pads, every thing and then you know what your working with and have a idea of what you got to do! Like the analog gauges, gas and temp, they both have to be unhooked them you will get digital ones will pop up on the display, then you can get blanks to cover the holes and then you can install power cord outlets or anything in there place to cover the holes. If you fall into a hole and don't know where to turn, you can do a search on this site and get info, or some of the sponcers on the main page have videos on repairs, and you tube!!!! Good Luck it's just nuts and bolts:thumbup:
 
Spyders are not quite the same as most vehicles you are familiar with. They run a Can-Bus system and are very finicky about electrical modifications. Please read the owners manual thoroughly and get a shop manual before you dive into this vehicle. There are a couple of sites that have shop manuals in PDF format, so you can have them on your computer and in a smart phone.

If you are adding any electrical devices, make sure you connect to a good clean 12V source and do not get in parallel with a digital electronic component.
 
I picked up a 2010 RT a few weeks ago for my wife (she's too short to ride anything on two wheels). It evidently hasn't been maintained at all by its previous three owners, and some peculiar custom work has been performed on it. The lights on the analog clusters are incredibly dim and the analog tach works sporadically, but the digital cluster is clear and bright. Does anybody know whether the newer instrument clusters are compatible? Having a bright LED cluster with integrated GPS seems pretty attractive. Another weird detail is that the dipstick comes out completely dry when cold, but there's evidently plenty of oil present. I plan on trying to restore this neglected Spyder with its vague, sort of gooey controls to something that functions and feels precise and new. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

When searching for answers you'll save a lot of time if you do an 'advanced search' then once the search is executed, click on earlier page numbers(to get to posts from the 2010/2013 time period). You'll find many answers to your questions there, and faster. Searches sometimes require creative thinking(wording) when describing what you're looking for.
 
If you received an operator's guide for the Spyder read it thoroughly and follow the instructions precisely for checking the oil level. If you do not have an OG, go to this link, drill down to the 2010 MY and select the guide for the 2010 Spyder RT. http://www.operatorsguides.brp.com/Index.aspx?lang=e&s1=c95d00ce-3879-4560-8c79-677edbef8b09&brands=roadster&type=og Download it and save it on your computer. If you are going to restore it it would be wise to go online and search for a service manual. For $25-30 you can download and have a good one.
 
While you're doing all of the work, also check the health of the battery, i.e., its load capacity, not its voltage. Can bus systems tend to be picky about system voltage.
 
Thanks, everybody. I know there are shop manuals out on the internet, and I'm going to order an owner's guide for her. This is going to be a process. I'll just keep cursing at the Spyder while I ride it, and praising my 2-wheeled H2.
 
Back
Top