2008 SE5 won't start

[Kseps1983]

Hi everyone,
I'm hoping someone can help me get my spyder 2008 RS SE5 functioning again. I thank you in advance for all advice. I took all my panels off to have it painted, unplugged all the lights as needed to disassemble. Figured I'd try some new leds to replace the front fenders lights. I got everything back together, turned it on, ALL the lights lit up correctly. No codes. Drove it for approx 5 minutes. All the lights except the headlights went out. No codes.

Turned the bike off. Turned it back on, except this time it wouldn't start. I got the VSS/DPS code. Simply wouldn't start up. When I turned the key off, the display stayed lit for a little while while off. I went back and replaced the fender bulbs with the correct ones, searched the fuse box by the front trunk and found a bad fuse. Replaced both. Now when I turn the key I have NO codes, but it simply won't start. I can hear a noise like something is priming when I turn the key, no clicking of any sort. Any thoughts or advice I can try would be extremely helpful.

 

[billybovine]

I will assume that you mean by it will not start is. When you push the start button nothing happens. If different let us know. Since the fuel pump runs. That means the key recognised as correct. Start with the simple stuff. Is it in gear and if so are you pressing down the brake pedal while pressing the start button. Is the engine kill switch in the run position.

 

[Kseps1983]

Yes you are correct. When I turn the key nothing happens except I can hear the fuel pump. The kill switch is is the correct position, it is in gear, and yes I press down on the brake pedal. I have tried all the simple things.

 

[billybovine]

Do the brake lights actually light up when brake pedal is pressed?

 

[Bfromla]

Hi everyone,
I'm hoping someone can help me get my spyder 2008 RS SE5 functioning again. I thank you in advance for all advice. I took all my panels off to have it painted, unplugged all the lights as needed to disassemble. Figured I'd try some new leds to replace the front fenders lights. I got everything back together, turned it on, ALL the lights lit up correctly. No codes. Drove it for approx 5 minutes. All the lights except the headlights went out. No codes.

Turned the bike off. Turned it back on, except this time it wouldn't start. I got the VSS/DPS code. Simply wouldn't start up. When I turned the key off, the display stayed lit for a little while while off. I went back and replaced the fender bulbs with the correct ones, searched the fuse box by the front trunk and found a bad fuse. Replaced both. Now when I turn the key I have NO codes, but it simply won't start. I can hear a noise like something is priming when I turn the key, no clicking of any sort. Any thoughts or advice I can try would be extremely helpful.

:thumbup: Ok No codes:2thumbs: Double ck (you said it 2X) but what fuse#? It could be simply a pinched wire from panel removal & the VSSS/DPS suggest you may have damaged the sensor or sensor plate on one of the wheels (could be minor but spyder sense is sensitive)
any problem pushing the bike? & :congrats: For paint job:nopic:

 

[Kseps1983]

New update: I will post a picture soon. It's mostly neon green with black. It looks nice. The back turn signals work but the back brake lights do not. The front turn signals work but the fender lights do not. Not sure if the fender lights are supposed to come on when the bike actually starts. No Codes. Still hear the fuel pump when key is turned and button pushed to start it up. The fuse was in the front fuse box by the trunk.

Location of burnt fuse: If you look at bottom row of fuses L to R (10,15, 5, 10). It a fuse in the 2nd to last row. Looks like this
.........10 -----------> burnt fuse
10, 15, 5, 10

Also the dash stays lit up for a short period of time 10 seconds (nothing displayed, just backlight) after the bike is turned off.

 

[Kseps1983]

The bike pushes just it normally would. I checked all fuses in front fuse box, after changing the burnt one, all others in front fuse box are good. It's funny, I actually would pay someone $100 who can diagnose my issue. I had to laugh out loud because i'd actually mail someone $100 cash if they came up with the right solution, I'm that desperate to ride it.

 

[Bfromla]

New update: I will post a picture soon. It's mostly neon green with black. It looks nice. The back turn signals work but the back brake lights do not. The front turn signals work but the fender lights do not. Not sure if the fender lights are supposed to come on when the bike actually starts. No Codes. Still hear the fuel pump when key is turned and button pushed to start it up. The fuse was in the front fuse box by the trunk.


Location of burnt fuse: If you look at bottom row of fuses L to R (10,15, 5, 10). It a fuse in the 2nd to last row. Looks like this
.........10 -----------> burnt fuse
10, 15, 5, 10


Also the dash stays lit up for a short period of time 10 seconds (nothing displayed, just backlight) after the bike is turned off.

The bike pushes just it normally would. I checked all fuses in front fuse box, after changing the burnt one, all others in front fuse box are good. It's funny, I actually would pay someone $100 who can diagnose my issue. I had to laugh out loud because i'd actually mail someone $100 cash if they came up with the right solution, I'm that desperate to ride it.

Interesting offer Hopefully we can get you rolling & you can use that for Farkles:firstplace:
We certainly got to get that brake light working! If you can take that part off slowly & looking for any small nicks in wires or burnt marks you may find the short that popped fuse. BUT do with no power, maybe even disconnect battery first. Was the fuse location identified in your manual?

 

[billybovine]

New update: I will post a picture soon. It's mostly neon green with black. It looks nice. The back turn signals work but the back brake lights do not. The front turn signals work but the fender lights do not. Not sure if the fender lights are supposed to come on when the bike actually starts. No Codes. Still hear the fuel pump when key is turned and button pushed to start it up. The fuse was in the front fuse box by the trunk.

Location of burnt fuse: If you look at bottom row of fuses L to R (10,15, 5, 10). It a fuse in the 2nd to last row. Looks like this
.........10 -----------> burnt fuse
10, 15, 5, 10

Also the dash stays lit up for a short period of time 10 seconds (nothing displayed, just backlight) after the bike is turned off.

The fender lights, license plate and tail lights (running lights) should come on with the key. It is only the headlights that come on after the engine starts. That is under fuse #7. But the DESS is under that fuse and from your description it is working. So the fuse is not the cause of the running lights not coming on.

You did not answer my question if the brake lights come on when the brake is pressed.

The gauge cluster takes 20 seconds to shut down. That is normal.

From page 105 of your owners guide.

 

[Kseps1983]

Thank you for the help so far. I read all responses very thoroughly as to respond to all parts of them. If you re-read my response I did state that the brake lights do not work. When I press on the brake the brake lights do not work. I have checked ALL the fuses front and back and they are all good.

When the bike was originally apart, no panels (when it was getting painted), I rode it around the parking lot, no rear turn signals in place and no license plate light were attached. No issues with the motorcycle at all.

Putting it back together, the only changes I made were (leds in the front fenders, and used electrical tape to tape the wire that runs to the license plate light which was slightly worn). After these changes were made and panels put on, I started the bike. All lights lit up, no codes, and rode for approx 3-5 min. Then front fender lights, license plate light, and brake lights are out and the bike won't start.

I have replaced the fender bulbs with the original bulbs, replaced the burnt fuse, checked and tightened all connections. Removed rear fender and checked the license plate wire. Essentially tried to return the bike to the state at which it was originally functioning driving around the parking lot (before I put the panels back on). No luck

Also "BillyBovine", you are correct, #7 fuse was the fuse that was out.

 

[youngers]

ho ho ho santa on the way ! { maybe }

you put your baby back together , then rode for 5 too 10 minutes ... I know this is going to be a pain but , you might have too take off the panels again , what soundsa like happened is that when the engine got hot it might have burned a wire connection , or , as it got warm , it pulled a connector apart as it was driven around , { this or your ground wire has come apart from the frame , this could be at your fender lights connection , or BEST YET the tag lights rear break light ground ! { hope this is the winner idea } if so please , donate the money too pops fund me page , I do not need money as , I would love the kids too have a better Christmas as possible !

 

[Kseps1983]

Thank you Youngers. I have an update. Hopefully as a group you can help me out which I will be forever grateful for. Happy and blessed holidays to everyone.

So my Spyder originally worked with all panels off as stated in my previous post. So my common sense says get back to that point and go from there. I'm at the point now where I tried to backtrack to see where I went wrong. I removed the license plate light and housing completely and unplugged that unit and unplugged the rear turning signals (this is how it functioned perfectly when the panels were off). I figured I would check the original #7 fuse that I originally found blown and had replaced. To my surprise it was blown again.

Now with the rear turning signals unplugged and the license plate light unplugged, I replaced the #7 fuse again. Turn the key and BAM, it starts up. So I need help from here. Please!!! The front fenders light up, the rear brake lights work. Every light that is plugged in works. (Remember I still have the license plate and rear blinkers unplugged). Thoughts? Ideas?

 

[Bfromla]

Thank you Youngers. I have an update. Hopefully as a group you can help me out which I will be forever grateful for. Happy and blessed holidays to everyone.

So my Spyder originally worked with all panels off as stated in my previous post. So my common sense says get back to that point and go from there. I'm at the point now where I tried to backtrack to see where I went wrong. I removed the license plate light and housing completely and unplugged that unit and unplugged the rear turning signals (this is how it functioned perfectly when the panels were off). I figured I would check the original #7 fuse that I originally found blown and had replaced. To my surprise it was blown again.

Now with the rear turning signals unplugged and the license plate light unplugged, I replaced the #7 fuse again. Turn the key and BAM, it starts up. So I need help from here. Please!!! The front fenders light up, the rear brake lights work. Every light that is plugged in works. (Remember I still have the license plate and rear blinkers unplugged). Thoughts? Ideas?

:congrats: Almost there it sounds like the license plight light might be the culprit (it lights when running, the blinkers do not) so plug them in (&unplug)only 1at a time, if all stay lit & your fuse holds out, you should be good. Thx for the progress updates

 

[JerryB]

Hi 1983,

Re: Thoughts? Ideas?

I am not that great when it comes to electrical problems. However, I would suggest re-plugging in those items you currently have removed. Do it one at a time & check to see when the fuse blows again; if it does.

Best of luck & keep us posted as you make progress,

Jerry Baumchen

 

[Warlock]

Thank you Youngers. I have an update. Hopefully as a group you can help me out which I will be forever grateful for. Happy and blessed holidays to everyone.

So my Spyder originally worked with all panels off as stated in my previous post. So my common sense says get back to that point and go from there. I'm at the point now where I tried to backtrack to see where I went wrong. I removed the license plate light and housing completely and unplugged that unit and unplugged the rear turning signals (this is how it functioned perfectly when the panels were off). I figured I would check the original #7 fuse that I originally found blown and had replaced. To my surprise it was blown again.

Now with the rear turning signals unplugged and the license plate light unplugged, I replaced the #7 fuse again. Turn the key and BAM, it starts up. So I need help from here. Please!!! The front fenders light up, the rear brake lights work. Every light that is plugged in works. (Remember I still have the license plate and rear blinkers unplugged). Thoughts? Ideas?

I do know if the license light is shorted it will throw codes and act stupid.
David

 

[billybovine]

Turn signals are on fuse F9. You have not blown that fuse so the turn signals are not your culpert. The short hast to be in the license plate light circuit by all your other facts you have stated. I would start by taking the tape off the bad spot you found and see if the short is there. I would strongly think that the 2 wires in that harness are touching there.

 

[Bob Denman]

Turn signals are on fuse F9. You have not blown that fuse so the turn signals are not your culpert. The short hast to be in the license plate light circuit by all your other facts you have stated. I would start by taking the tape off the bad spot you found and see if the short is there. I would strongly think that the 2 wires in that harness are touching there.

:agree: Please let us know what you find, and Good luck! :thumbup:

 

[Kseps1983]

Thank you everyone, you all are awesome. I'm a RN and had to work the last few nights and sleep during the days, so I haven't had too much time to tinker.

LATEST UPDATE: Everything is plugged in and panels installed, EXCEPT the rear fender and have not plugged the license plate bulb in. I drove the Spyder around the parking lot for 10 minutes and everything was perfect! All lights work except obviously the license plate light assembly that is not plugged in yet.

Question: I did buy a bulb from the auto store for the license plate assembly that had the same 12V 10W. Is it possible that it's the bulb that is the issue? A previous post mentioned single vs double filament? Also, the license plate housing assembly has 2 little plugs. I want to make sure I'm plugging them in correctly. There is one with a silver end and a red end. If I'm correct in remembering the red plug goes into the spot right beneath the bulb and the silver plug on the left side? Can anyone verify this? Thank you all and have a blessed Christmas.

-Kevin

 

[youngers]

the bulb

I am not sure of the bulb that is this position ! almost sounds like a diode in the bulb assemble so you might some more help here than I can supply on the bulb ! glad we could get you too this spot of easier repair than that of a crazy over haul every thing

 

[billybovine]

As long as the base of the replacement bulb type 67 as shown below it should be fine.



Please post a couple pictures of the plugs you are talking about.