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17,000 Miles and the front pulley is history!

In this case, I think it was just a design oversight. Not a choice to cheap out on a part. The proposed fix BRP has initiated seems to be working and will likely be used for factory assembly going forward at some point.

While BRP may implement the Loctite process and procedeure for new bikes, my hunch is they go cheap and either do nothing or keep it simpler.

Then again, BRP is infamous to overcomplicate stuff. Maybe they will skip the Loctite, save money by not using the bolt and simply weld the pulley to the shaft...
 
While BRP may implement the Loctite process and procedeure for new bikes, my hunch is they go cheap and either do nothing or keep it simpler.

Then again, BRP is infamous to overcomplicate stuff. Maybe they will skip the Loctite, save money by not using the bolt and simply weld the pulley to the shaft...

If red dust is appearing on the Sprocket, it must be either rust or copper. It most likely is not rust, so if it is copper, it appears the Sprocket Gear is manufactured from a soft sintered metal alloy, i.e. Zinc, Copper and possibly Nickel. it is a porous and soft cast metal, but cheap to machine. It can not be Case hardened, It usually is Electroplated with a Nickel coating, or Electroless Nickel coated using an Auto-Catalytic plating process. If that is how the Sprocket is manufactured, it is like a Razor Blade in a throw away shaver.
 
If red dust is appearing on the Sprocket, it must be either rust or copper. It most likely is not rust, so if it is copper, it appears the Sprocket Gear is manufactured from a soft sintered metal alloy, i.e. Zinc, Copper and possibly Nickel. it is a porous and soft cast metal, but cheap to machine. It can not be Case hardened, It usually is Electroplated with a Nickel coating, or Electroless Nickel coated using an Auto-Catalytic plating process. If that is how the Sprocket is manufactured, it is like a Razor Blade in a throw away shaver.

If you get a chance, read the link regarding fretting I posted. That red dust is telltale the pulley is trashed and is microscopic iron oxide particles. Very seldom do you see floating splines not lubricated, but it is what it is and will be what it will be.
 
This spline issue reminds me of my Valkyrie. The rear wheel was driven by a splined hub. As long as that splined hub was lubricated with a high content moly paste (60%), there was no noticeable wear. If that splined hub was not lubricated when changing out the rear tire, those hub splines would begin to wear.

Eventually, Guard-Dog developed a high content moly grease (25%) that they claimed was more effective than using the Honda paste. The idea being that the grease would not dry out like the Honda paste. I began using the Guard-Dog product and had no noticeable wear on my hub splines. Both, the Honda paste and the Guard-Dog grease, were high moly content products vs the over the counter moly greases readily available.

https://www.tsmoly.com/grease-moly-grease-p-251.html
 
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Locktite on the old 998

Just curious if the locktite on the shaft is relevant to replacing the sprocket on the older Twins? I think mine is about ready to be replaced.
 
Our 2016 F3T did have the white grease on the splined output shaft

Quote "And the factory installs do not have grease, at least for F3 models."

Here is a picture of the bolt, and shaft with a little of the grease remaining on our 2016 F3T.

DSCN2683.jpgDSCN2673.jpg

Just finished the preventative maintenance suggested by Lamont with the LocTite 648 at 34650 miles on the wifes F3T. No rust evident and the sprocket pulled off smoothly.

I did get sloppy with the cleanup and application of the Loctite... take your time and have everything clean and ready to TAP TAP with a soft blow hammer, and assess the amount of Loctite and type needed by the present fit conditions.

My learning process thread was on the F3 Hotrod forum under Preventive Maintenance using Loctite 648..:opps:
 
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