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1330 Cam Sensor

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His desuctable is $50, which is the cost of the part. Since it's our first one, the install is free. He did not want to drag it up there and wait 3 weeks for the same money.

So to repeat SpyderAnne's question why didn't you go to the dealer. #1 this is a prep problem,ergo dealer's problem.#2 this is a bike barely six months out of the showroom,doesn't it have the full factory warranty? I wasn't aware there was any deductible on that. Unless I am missing something ( not impossible or improbable) there should have been no question about all this being on Dealer/BRP
 
So to repeat SpyderAnne's question why didn't you go to the dealer. #1 this is a prep problem,ergo dealer's problem.#2 this is a bike barely six months out of the showroom,doesn't it have the full factory warranty? I wasn't aware there was any deductible on that. Unless I am missing something ( not impossible or improbable) there should have been no question about all this being on Dealer/BRP
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He was not charged as the part was covered. The dealer would not cover towing and it was too far for the towing coverage to work, plus he didn't trust them people. He did not want to wait the month for it to get looked at. If I had known that programming would be needed, it would have been stupid for me to suggest replacement. The guy is very happy, does not feel like he lost money, and since we changed his oil at the same time and I changed the sensor for free, it wasn't that big a deal.

The real issue here is that it should not have been an issue in the first place if the dealer was doing their job. I'm telling you, you burn people and they are very reluctant to come back to you. The dealers need to realize that.

And, on the bright side, anyone else that is thinking of changing theirs will now realize that it must be B.U.D.S. calibrated. Not wasted time at all IMHO.
 
The real issue here is that it should not have been an issue in the first place if the dealer was doing their job. I'm telling you, you burn people and they are very reluctant to come back to you. The dealers need to realize that.

The main problem is that BRP allows dealers who "burn people" to skate. One/many may not return to the dealer that burned them; but you do search out a dealer for your Spyder. That's the crux of the problem-they are the only game in town, and that position breeds a degree of smugness from the top down. A new version of "take it or leave it". Some have left for other rides; but most just endure the Spyder culture.
The ONLY way this "attitude" changes is for real competition to enter the marketplace. So far, there have only been rumors of future products.
Mike.
 
On our Alaska trip, Dave had one fail. Went to the dealer, none in stock. There was a motor on a stand as a display, and the tech boosted that one, put it on Dave's bike, and off we went!!

Too bad you guys weren't aware of having to use B.U.D.S. for calibration when that part was replaced. It would have saved a lot of time on this thread. At least we know now what is required.
 
16 F3T cam position sensor replaced; No B.U.D.S Required and all is good

Too bad you guys weren't aware of having to use B.U.D.S. for calibration when that part was replaced. It would have saved a lot of time on this thread. At least we know now what is required.



101_0015.jpgWifes F3T got the Limp Home Screen a little over a week ago, and when she got home (35 miles commute) pulled up the PO340 code - bad camshaft position sensor. Did search on computer and saw this thread so we check 3 dealers and scheduled an appointment the earliest was 3 weeks out. Since my wife loves her commute on the F3 she was not a happy camper! Also we had several trips planned, and this was adding to the discord. To paraphrase- Unhappy Wife: Unhappy Life!!

Anticipating that the BUDS calibration would be needed and that the part would have to be ordered anyway, we stewed, but ordered the part anyway from our local dealer, and hoped that the diagnosis and repair would go smooth. We like the local tech and didn't want to "LIMP" the hundred plus miles to Denver and maybe still be waiting on a fix.

Parts man Ashton, called Tuesday and said the cam sensor was in along with the Oring I ordered just in case. Turns out the sensor comes with an ORing in place, so that was not needed. I talked with Service Manager and Tech Isaac, and he said try the sensor, and if the PO 340 Code doesn't go away, they would try to fit me in for a BUDS hookup to resolve the full diagnostic report.

It took me about an hour to wiggle the little sensor out of the recess in upper rear right side of engine, but was able to get the new one in and snapped in place. Fired the F3T up and eased down the drive with the Limp Mode showing for about 10 seconds and then IT WENT AWAY, and my 2 mile test ride was free of codes and running smooth. My wife rode to work today, so if she rolls in this evening with a smile on her face we are good to go on our planned rides this fall. Shout out to Ashton, Desmond and Isaac at Fremont Motorsports for their communication and help!!
 
View attachment 153507Wifes F3T got the Limp Home Screen a little over a week ago, and when she got home (35 miles commute) pulled up the PO340 code - bad camshaft position sensor. Did search on computer and saw this thread so we check 3 dealers and scheduled an appointment the earliest was 3 weeks out. Since my wife loves her commute on the F3 she was not a happy camper! Also we had several trips planned, and this was adding to the discord. To paraphrase- Unhappy Wife: Unhappy Life!!

Anticipating that the BUDS calibration would be needed and that the part would have to be ordered anyway, we stewed, but ordered the part anyway from our local dealer, and hoped that the diagnosis and repair would go smooth. We like the local tech and didn't want to "LIMP" the hundred plus miles to Denver and maybe still be waiting on a fix.

Parts man Ashton, called Tuesday and said the cam sensor was in along with the Oring I ordered just in case. Turns out the sensor comes with an ORing in place, so that was not needed. I talked with Service Manager and Tech Isaac, and he said try the sensor, and if the PO 340 Code doesn't go away, they would try to fit me in for a BUDS hookup to resolve the full diagnostic report.

It took me about an hour to wiggle the little sensor out of the recess in upper rear right side of engine, but was able to get the new one in and snapped in place. Fired the F3T up and eased down the drive with the Limp Mode showing for about 10 seconds and then IT WENT AWAY, and my 2 mile test ride was free of codes and running smooth. My wife rode to work today, so if she rolls in this evening with a smile on her face we are good to go on our planned rides this fall. Shout out to Ashton, Desmond and Isaac at Fremont Motorsports for their communication and help!!

Hope you have better luck than we did. Since it was a short in the battery that caused my customers P0340, you may not have to clear it with BUDS. We tried everything we could to clear the code and wouldn't. Different circumstances = different result?
 
So far so good on replacing the Cam Position Sensor

Wife had no issues on her 70 mile loop yesterday. Have another short jaunt tomorrow and hope that it remains fixed. As Isaac said the BUDS system gives a whole list of possible issues that could cause the code, so maybe I lucked out with the bad sensor diagnosis and swapping parts at it. Sometimes you get lucky.. A couple of techs mentioned checking for loose battery leads, and I did but mine were tight, and the connector seemed seated so... Although the battery leads were tight, I decided to clean and reattach. Maybe that reset everything as well.

Here is a list of possible issues from BUDS that another thread showed:

Camshaft Position Sensor – PO340 code


Spyder Diagnostic Codes - P0340
Error on
camshaft
position sensor signal

Disconnected sensor
Blown fuse
Defective CAPS,
damaged circuit wires,
damaged connector or
damaged ECM output pins.
Trigger wheel missing
or in incorrect position
on intake camshaft

Make sure sensor
connector is fully inserted.
Measure voltage between
harness connector CAPS-3
and ground (expected
value: 11 to 13 volts).
Measure resistance from
connector: ECMA-E2 to CAPS-2
(expected value: < 2 ohms).
Measure resistance from
connector: ECMA-D4 to CAPS-1
(expected value: < 2 ohms).


Thanks for everyones help and communication!!
 
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Glad that it didn't need BUDS. I have replaced hundreds of cam and crank sensors on cages and have NEVER had to do a computer calibration. Figured the Spyder would not be an exception, but I guess my guys was an exception.
If either our F3 or Rt has that code I will still try to swap it again.
 
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