1330 aftermarket air intake

[garb55]

Is anyone working on an aftermarket air intake for the 1330?

 

[Bob Denman]

:dontknow: Do you think that it really needs one? :dontknow:
These bikes really haven't shown a need (so far), to make room up under the Tupperware for better airflow, and they're really not lacking for power...
Is this something that you just WANT; amd not not necessarily need?

:bbq::bbq::bbq:

 

[MarkLawson]

Not certain as to the need for them. There is no exhaust running through the body, as I understand & the radiators are now forward. Is the engine itself producing enough heat to need additional ventilation?

 

[garb55]

:dontknow: Do you think that it really needs one? :dontknow:
These bikes really haven't shown a need (so far), to make room up under the Tupperware for better airflow, and they're really not lacking for power...
Is this something that you just WANT; amd not not necessarily need?

:bbq::bbq::bbq:

It does not need one.
I do all my own maintenance.
It will open things up and make it easier.
Any additional air flow under the Tupperware will help keep the electronics cooler and last longer
just something I want
Don

 

[jthornton]

I have some ideas but don't know when I'll get to making one. If you have any ideas I'm all ears.

JT

 

[Bob Denman]

It does not need one.
I do all my own maintenance.
It will open things up and make it easier.
Any additional air flow under the Tupperware will help keep the electronics cooler and last longer
just something I want
Don

Airflow to cool components, and ease maintenance procedures??
That sounds like a NEED! :clap: :2thumbs:

 

[LEEB]

It does not need one.
I do all my own maintenance.
It will open things up and make it easier.
Any additional air flow under the Tupperware will help keep the electronics cooler and last longer
just something I want
Don

Don, tell me about your air horns.

 

[garb55]

Don, tell me about your air horns.

It is a Siebel dual air horn mounted on behind the left cover where the oil cooler used to be for the 998 engine

wired threw auxiliary fuse box with relays

 

[garb55]

Thanks for all the info
Don

 

[3 Wheel Addict]

The air filter is the easiest air filter to change ever. Takes longer to pull the panels than to change the filter. It would be nice to have a cleanable filter though.

 

[auldy]

Food for Thought

Hi All
I currently have a 2014 RTL and have recently ordered a Cat Bypass from Spyder Attitude taking advantage of their January Sale while the Australian Dollar is still crap

I am am running the Akropovic silencer for the RTL and feel this should supply sufficient back pressure for the system without the need for a Big City Thunder baffle.

I am also having the air scoops fitted below the mirrors as I like the look of them and I'm tired of having a glovebox that is better suited to being a pie warmer

My Food for Thought question for the other technically minded out there, do you think the left side air scoop would be a suitable source as a Cold Air Intake that could be ducted to the Air Filter intake assembly.

Yes I realize that it would sacrifice one scoop for cooling but the right side scoop would still be available

Cheers From Sydney
:cheers:
Auldy

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

COLD AIR INTAKE

Hi All
I currently have a 2014 RTL and have recently ordered a Cat Bypass from Spyder Attitude taking advantage of their January Sale while the Australian Dollar is still crap

I am am running the Akropovic silencer for the RTL and feel this should supply sufficient back pressure for the system without the need for a Big City Thunder baffle.

I am also having the air scoops fitted below the mirrors as I like the look of them and I'm tired of having a glovebox that is better suited to being a pie warmer

My Food for Thought question for the other technically minded out there, do you think the left side air scoop would be a suitable source as a Cold Air Intake that could be ducted to the Air Filter intake assembly.

Yes I realize that it would sacrifice one scoop for cooling but the right side scoop would still be available

Cheers From Sydney
:cheers:
Auldy

......I have a 2014 RT & removed the entire black plastic OEM air intake from inside the left front fender, plus the rubber Elbow.......I drilled a 3 in. ( 76mm ) hole and attached a pipe which sticks out about 2 1/2 in. in the left fender. I made a corresponding pipe that attaches to the Air box inside. I also put a 75mm fan in that pipe. So it sucks air in. Since the two pipes are separate when I take the FRUNK off it makes that whole process a lot easier......I haven't done any DYNO testing so if this is any better I won't say........But without all that plastic the front air scoop allows a lot of COOLING air into the left side , which it didn't before..................Mike :thumbup:

 

[auldy]

Thanks Mike
I am looking to get a bit more air flow to the motor which may assist with both cooling and aiding air intake for the engine :thumbup:

Thanks for your input
Cheers
:cheers:
Ken

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

PICS OF NEW AIR INTAKE

Unfortunately I didn't take pics of the OEM blk plastic Air Intake that has been removed. But pic #1, shows the 3in.metal tube ( from a camping size propane cylinder ) that I used for the new intake, which comes out a hole in the left front fender...

Pic #2. is the inside of that tube and how I welded brackets on to attach it to the fender ( none show on the outside )

Pic #3, is the other half of the tube attached to the inside OEM Air Box.. they are not connected, that way when I take the Frunk off they just slide past each other....

Pic #4. is the computer fan that pulls air into the Air Box ( 39 cu ft.per min ).....So far water intake has not been an issue, because the fan has a switch......Mike :thumbup:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

numbers

FWIW

1330cc = .047 cubic feet

.047 cubic feet x 3000 rpm = 141 CFM
.047 cubic feet x 4000 rpm = 188 CFM
.047 cubic feet x 5000 rpm = 235 CFM
.047 cubic feet x 6000 rpm = 282 CFM
.047 cubic feet x 7000 rpm = 329 CFM

.047 cubic feet x 829 rpm = 39 CFM

....Thank you for the numbers............and I know they mean some thing .......:dontknow:........so please don't keep me / we / us in suspense................Mike :thumbup:

 

[DrewNJ]

Remember the "Echarger" electric supercharger from back in the early 90's?

 

[auldy]

Air Intake

opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:

Thanks for all this information gentlemen

I will look at the available plumbing and routing options for air intake once I have the air scoops fitted

Still waiting for my Spyder Attitude Cat Bypass to arrive :spyder:

Cheers
:cheers:
Auldy

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

HOLY TOLEDO

Mike, consider also the dynamics of the design. A fan is a fan, and a compressor is designed as a compressor.

I am not saying a fan in a closed tube will not produce pressure or boost. To be truly effective and compress the air without the blades stalling, the design becomes more critical. A fan is designed to simply blow air. A compressor is designed to not only move or blow air, but also significantly increase pressure and not experience compressor stall.

A turbo, whether on a car, truck or aircraft most commonly uses a centrifugal compressor. They tend to be single stage with one compressor rotor. By design, the airflow becomes divergent and increases in pressure.

Seldom do you see axial flow compressors except in turbine engines. This style, axial most mimics your fan. A hub with blades is spun. The primary difference though is that to increase pressure, the turbine engine uses a series of stators, or non rotating blades, to direct airflow. Also, the axial flow design uses multiple stages of compressor rotors to achieve the high pressures needed.

FWIW, I have used a shop vac, actually a very good shop vac to pressurize large volume. When the shop vac reached it's maximum output pressure, it developed very low PSI. Yes, this could help an engine make more HP, but this was pumping into a dead ended container. With any type of leak or consumption of air, the shop vac produced almost zero PSI, just flow.

PK

.....Paul, this is waaaaaaay above my paygrade. Let me start at the beginning to give some perspective here. But first and foremost I thank you for your knowledge and effort to educate me and everyone else who is following this....Back to basics....Remember last year when you assisted me with my front shock angle changes ( Thanks again ), that caused me to have to either cut a large hole in the plastic AIR INTAKE tube ( lft frt fndr ) or re-move it, which is what I did because I felt it was terribly restrictive with the allowable air coming in. That left me with - well what do I re-place it with. Hence the 73mm metal tube thru the fender. That computer fan cost me $ 2.00, so I figured it probably can't hurt, because it's before the K&N filter anyway...Since the engine is only getting AIR by sucking it in ( in natural process ) I figured the fan isn't going to hurt but might make it better......I have NO dyno figures....so I make NO claims what-so-ever.....But at Spyderfest 2015 I couldn't control the wheel-spin on my RT 1330 with SE trans....The year before I took the First place trophy in class with my 2011 RSS - Se, ....... so I think I know a little bit about Drag racing......So for now, I'll leave it in because I'm not throwing codes, get really good MPG's on 87 octane ( w/ Startron enzyme treatment )......Oh yea one other thing, I forgot to re-connect the AIR TEMP sensor since Spyderfest 2015 and have been showing the appropriate code for that on the dash. As I understand it this sensor not only tells you the Ambient Temp.....it also tells one of the engine management computers something about fuel / air ratio's ( I think ).........So I haven't had any run time since this was fixed except to put it on my truck ( which I did in RECORD time :roflblack: ).........This is an on-going discovery and I am very happy and fortunate to have you aboard for my journey...:clap::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:......again I appreciate all the assistance you have given me .........Mike :thumbup: