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100 watt bulbs that some of us installed in our RTs or other bikes (posting for Mike!

What's been determined, if anything, about what LED replacements will work and do they outshine the OEMs?

They are new and have a huge amount of heat sink straps. Contrary to what people think LEDs do generate a decent amount of heat especially in a headlight application. They do interest me but I am done being a test pilot. They may very well be good but I think the jury is out. Maybe Mike will put a set in his for us and let us know.:roflblack:

Insideheadlamp.jpg


http://www.xenondepot.com/spyder-led-headlight-kit-review-s/51.htm
 
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Not new information

On 6-25-15 under "headlight comparison test" I told the forum the difference that this would make. I'm sorry that someone is surprised that twice the wattage (read heat) melted their headlight holders. Go Xenon. The light is amazing in it's whiteness and intensity. LED's don't compare for pure lumen output. Xenon Depot makes an excellent product and it's plug and play. No changes required to the wiring harness and it's not going to melt your headlights or the holder. The only drawback was the absolute lack of instructions, but Doc Riverside helped me out with that.

I am amazed every time I have the opportunity to ride at night at the clean, white light the xenon bulbs put out. Choose to try them. If you don't like them, you can still put the stock 55 Watt halogen bulbs right back in and enjoy the nice yellow light that they put out.
 
On 6-25-15 under "headlight comparison test" I told the forum the difference that this would make. I'm sorry that someone is surprised that twice the wattage (read heat) melted their headlight holders. Go Xenon. The light is amazing in it's whiteness and intensity. LED's don't compare for pure lumen output. Xenon Depot makes an excellent product and it's plug and play. No changes required to the wiring harness and it's not going to melt your headlights or the holder. The only drawback was the absolute lack of instructions, but Doc Riverside helped me out with that.

I am amazed every time I have the opportunity to ride at night at the clean, white light the xenon bulbs put out. Choose to try them. If you don't like them, you can still put the stock 55 Watt halogen bulbs right back in and enjoy the nice yellow light that they put out.

Are you talking HID or LED ? I am interested in the amount of hours either last. When the jury comes in on the LED's that is what I am interested in.
 
http://www.xenondepot.com/9005-automotive-bulbs-s/1023.htm

Shows a bunch of options for my 2014 RT SM6 so I have no idea what would be good if any of these...any ideas guys? :hun:

As already stated if you go HID try to go plug-n-play. Once you start playing with ballast locations/drilling holes nothing will be the same. I do know BRP has a kit but have not seen or installed it. OSRAM( Sylvania), Putco, Phillups etc I already told you they will work but have a shorter lifespan. The Nightbreaker has some good reviews. The LED is what I referenced above just waiting for more reports on them and my bulbs to burn out before trying them.

xd-light-compare.jpg
 
When I rode Harleys, I used 100w bulbs. They burned the sockets and smoked the reflectors, but at the time was worth the extra light. When we got Spyders, we used HID. They were fantastic, but problem matic in my wife's bike. Now with our F3Ss we have LEDs they seem to be almost as bright as the HID but are easier to install and so far no problems at all.
 
keep in mind look at the LED light..I like the cree bulbs better but look where they are mounted on the light..I would look for distance of light and width..

I been experimenting with the cree lights on my fogs on the car and around a year now still working with no issues..The thing is the distance of light since the lights are mounted on the sides and not forward.. JMT

The one light I really liked was the Harley LED but are model specific..If I could move them to the spyder I would.. Those LED lights were the best..
 
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keep in mind look at the LED light..I like the cree bulbs better but look where they are mounted on the light..I would look for distance of light and width..

I been experimenting with the cree lights on my fogs on the car and around a year now still working with no issues..The thing is the distance of light since the lights are mounted on the sides and not forward.. JMT

The one light I really liked was the Harley LED but are model specific..If I could move them to the spyder I would.. Those LED lights were the best..

Most bulbs these day do shine to the side not straight out. Either they have a cap (in the housing) or the tip is coated internally to prevent blinding people. Halogen are a gas bulb vs the old timey tungsten types. Yes I am interested the light dispersion and the pictures on Xenon show a wider one for LEDs than HIDs. I only wonder how far down the road they go and how they work with signage .

led_headlight_beam_comparison.1.jpg
 
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Do not I repeat DO NOT drill holes in your headlights. You will get condensation in them they are sealed for a reason. I think enough bogus info has been posted on this topic. Do not replace 65W bulbs with 100W bulbs that meant ~30% more heat. Being a Journeyman electrician I understand electrical ratings. Those bulb sockets are not rated for 100W bulbs holes will not help the heat is in the socket. The same goes for cars use the proper bulbs for the application.

The wire gauge is also too thin for 100W bulbs. As a vintage bike mechanic, I have often switched from 50W high beam builbs to 100W bulbs after changing the sockets and wiring and running them off a relay.
 
Hi wiredgeorge,

Re: running them off a relay

Can you point me to some relays?

Thanks,

Jerry Baumchen
 
I'm baffled as to why anyone would even WANT to jump from 65w lamps to 100w lamps in their headlight sockets. Is there some logic to this? :dontknow:

Pam

The older you get, the harder it is to see at night. The SIMPLEST way to increase headlight brightness is to use a higher wattage bulb. A 100W bulb used in place of a 65W bulb provides increased brightness. I am not sure what gauge wire or wattage rating the Spyder headlight socket is but it probably isn't adequate for this simple upgrade since we have seen a member's socket melt. With a 100W bulb running directly from a fuse, the wire used would be about 12 ga. from fuse to switch and probably 14 ga. from switch to socket... of course, socket would need to be upgraded as well. I am sure that the wiring on a Spyder isn't nearly that heavy; more the headlight socket isn't rated.

Without looking at a wiring diagram, I would guess it best to run an upgraded wattage bulb on a dedicated and fused circuit. Power would come from the battery or fuse box to a relay that is triggered on when the bike is turned on. 12VDC would then travel to a new headlight switch because the old one can't handle the increased voltage and the switch connected to the upgraded head bulb socket rated for higher wattage. All this would be done using 12 ga. wire.

It would be considerable work. The higher wattage high beams would also be annoying to oncoming traffic. If you ride in rural areas, probably auxiliary lights would be a better alternative that you could switch on and that were designed for higher wattage bulbs so you can see those deer at night.
 
The only problem with throwing more light out in front of you...

It can blind oncoming traffic. :shocked:
Being absolutely night-blind; I find it easier to just slow down... :thumbup:
 
I never saw anyone suggesting using 100watt bulbs before or I would have pointed out what would eventually happened. Automotive ( or Motorcycle) lighting is designed to use specific components suggesting to anyone to use different ones without having an electrical back round is risking damaging another's property. For example if the wires going to that plug are 18AWG the ampacity is 7amps. running 65w bulbs requires 5.4 amps 100w bulbs require 8.4amps. 16 AWG will handle 10amps. Do not forget to double the amperage per bulb for total amperage in the circuit.


The length of wire also has an impact on what gauge it should be and also keep in mind that power coming from the main fuse or relay area for the headlight switch is coming quite a way PLUS the headlight switch likely won't like the additional load any more than the bulb holder did on the bike using the 100w bulb.
 
Some people just do not get it. DO NOT run a 100w bulb period. The socket and housing are not rated for it. Running extra wiring does not change that besides it runs off the load shedding relay, mess with that and see what the CanBus system thinks about it. This thread has run it's course there are SAFE alternatives choose one and pay the price. I lean towards the LED but HID can be made to work but they wear out over time. See the above chart. LEDS will last longer than the bike is on the road.
 
I think that Mike letting us know (even though he is not free to post) is an upstanding thing, and I think it is sad the people who attack or criticize when they should see what it really is. He let us know, even though it was not easy to do that. I think that it was a good try, and sadly didn't work out, but at least he has saved some of us from the grief of having to change the socket or more. There are many more here who have tried things, some work and some don't. I am thankful.
I agree 100%. Mike was big on running those bulbs too. Takes a big man to admit it didn't work and to let everyone know. Nice move Mike![emoji106]

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You know if someone suggest something that doesn't mean we have to go ahead and do it.. Someone did admit his mistake and someone keep mentioning it.. I think we all get it.. :banghead:

DO USE OVERRATED DEVICES in an electrical circuit that could cause issues..WE GET IT.. :thumbup:

Now I am a fan of LED lighting if there was something that I liked per what I want, I would try it out..For now I haven't seen anything yet..
 
WOW Drew. Someone comes here telling everyone to do something that could ruin circuits on their bike and he gets props after they do. He could have used the search and found that is was a very bad idea instead of promoting an unsafe mod.

https://www.google.com/search?num=5....4.0....0...1c.1.64.serp..2.2.193.iL_T3LVL27M
He didn't come in here telling anyone to do anything. He posted what he had done and what worked for him. Long term report was that it didn't work out as well as he hoped and wanted to let people know. I give him props for the followup, unlike some other members that have done some mods (some even selling mods) only later to find out they didn't do anything but make a wallet lighter....at best.

Dave, you still have a spyder? I thought you were done quite awhile age due to heat or a fire?[emoji50]

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