10 spyder rt now showing very hot

[leonml]

:roflblack:I only need a longer water hose:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::joke::joke::joke:

Exactly, except instead of the older ones you need a water safe one, cause you might want to drink and all of us who drank out of the old green ones are dying off from it.

 

[leonml]

My belief, based on your sensor testing, is that the gauge may be wonky. Trying the digital gauge might prove that, although the temperature signal appears that it may be retransmitted by the cluster, so that would also mean the cluster could be at fault if that proves to be true, and both gauges would read inaccurately. A dirty, loose, or bad connection which changed the resistance anywhere in the circuit could also be at fault, as that could change both the gauge readings and the fan response and warnings.

I still feel that your fan is not operating properly, although if it came on and stayed on during your testing it is probably OK and your Spyder temperature and fan are cycling as they normally do. If the fan comes on then cycles off, but the temp continues to rise, there is a problem. If the fan comes on, the temp gauge drops slightly, and it cycles back off, that would be normal. A fan that runs continuously indicates running hotter than normal, but not necessarily overheating. The fan should come on around the sixth bar or mark, and cycle off around 5 marks or bars. Be aware that the viewing angle may change the perception of where it comes on with the analog gauge. Overheating warnings should not wait until the top of the gauge, but come on at the bottom of the red or even nearer seven bars. Your testing method may have had something to do with that. A direct heat source is pretty uncontrollable, reacts fast, and could heat the sensor metal so that the temperature continued to rise after the heat was removed.

Boiling water in a pot should not be enough to trigger a warning...water under pressure and with coolant added boils at a higher temperature than plain water under atmospheric pressure. Your test went as I would expect it to go, in that regard.

Yes a crude test by fire, but when it gets hot it never goes into limp mode at the red line, or a hair above it. It took till it was almost to the top, which I tried to control by moving the flame away a bit to not raise temp too fast, but crude none the less.

Well the mechanic seems to think it feels hot too. I put the fan can on for my hwy pegs and I still get some heat out of it. I'm thinking a re-engineer of the panel that is on the bottom of the spyder, possibly use a dremel or drill and make slots or holes in it, and then on the top side use an adhesive to put some breathable foam padding similar to those on computers or other electronic devices, or frog skins, which keep moisture out and many guys put on the turbo cat snowmobiles to keep the belts cooler and they work great. I'm think then remove fan can obviously and block off the top hole on the right side and block off at least half the bottom hole and still let air divert toward the ground, which all seems like a far better design then what can am has going right now. Even a second fan at that lower hole that runs in conjunction with the main radiator fan would help draw that air, or even wire it to run at the push of a button at riders discretion.

I also know that though the gauge may be off, theres no denying that it's hotter than it should be if I hear the gurgle of antifreeze. I just wish they could read the temp and monitor it to see if the gauge and the fan are coming on at the right temp.

 

[NancysToy]

I also know that though the gauge may be off, theres no denying that it's hotter than it should be if I hear the gurgle of antifreeze. I just wish they could read the temp and monitor it to see if the gauge and the fan are coming on at the right temp.

The gurgle is highly unlikely to be the coolant boiling. It is far more likely to be the fuel boiling in the gas tank. Yes, it does indicate a high heat condition...not necessarily unusual, but disturbing and bothersome nonetheless.

 

[Bob Ledford]

I'm not sure what's going on here, but I bought my spyder rt in 2011 as a 10 model clear out. Had no problems but belt squeal which has never gone away, and happens during accelerating, and usually in corners mostly. Well on with the big problem.

I've never had this issue and as I remember since day one the spyder ran typically at mid level on the gauge, as far as I remember. Last year for sure. Well since sometime this year I noticed it up higher than usual, like one full line below the black line at the start of the hot zone. As I've ridden it seems to have gone hotter. Now I see that just normal driving all speeds that the gauge is right at the hot line. I'm confused by the fact that the fan kicks in only 15 seconds it seems and only when the gauge just goes over the first line for HOT. It cools it enough to bring it down, but just below the full Hot line, not even cool enough to reach the first mid bar in the white area. Coolant level is good. I ran a garden hose, which got pretty cold on the radiatior and the temp dropped right to the middle of the gauge and stayed there, so I'm assuming it's cooling the block for the sensor to read that I was cooling the engine via the radiator, so we have flow. I then proceeded to go to the dealer mechanic with the issue and he said it feels damn hot and is not cooling properly. He pulled a temp sensor out of a traded 10 rt, and ohm'ed it out. He pondered possibly having an issue with a stuck thermostat, and he was pointing out the hose near the radiator which I'm assuming housed it. I'm at a loss because if cold water cools the radiator and the gauge drops as the sensor is reading that it's getting cooled and I ohm'ed my sensor out and it's 2060 vs the one he gave me 1936, within spec according to the chart he had in a manual. G

What's going on? I believe that it should drop if air is flowing through the radiator, and even if it wasn't flowing or what I believe is not possible that the thermostat is stuck as I've only seen them work, or not, that it's not getting sufficient flow, then why would the water hose cool it?

the reason the water is cooling the radiator is "evaporative cooling" a natural cooling trick.

Even so, if flow was the problem then why doesn't the stupid fan turn on sooner and stay on longer, or till it cools it down a substantial amount, it doesn't. None of this makes sense..

your fan sensor is probably out of tolerance and needs to be replaced.

 

[leonml]

the reason the water is cooling the radiator is "evaporative cooling" a natural cooling trick.




your fan sensor is probably out of tolerance and needs to be replaced.

If that's the case then why the other sensor ohm the same and also cause the temp to rise same and no fan come on?