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1/8th mile drag strip

mc2276

New member
For those who might find this interesting... I took my Spyder to the local drag strip today. They run motorcycles at 1/8th mile. I did four runs. Here is the average:

Reaction time 1.1291 seconds (boy I have to work on this!!!!)
60 ft 2.2834 seconds
330 ft 6.0229 seconds
1/8th mile 9.0256 seconds @ 82.87 mph

Now take into effect that it is 45 degrees with 20 mph winds. Feels like 33 degrees. The track would not get warm no matter how many vehicles went down it. Each run got faster though, so I would like to try this again when it is warm.
 
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For those who might find this interesting... I took my Spyder to the local drag strip today. They run motorcycles at 1/8th mile. I did four runs. Here is the average:

Reaction time 1.1291 seconds (boy I have to work on this!!!!)
60 ft 2.2834 seconds
330 ft 6.0229 seconds
1/8th mile 9.0256 seconds @ 82.87 mph

Now take into effect that it is 45 degrees with 20 mph winds. Feels like 33 degrees. The track would not get warm no matter how many vehicles went down it. Each run got faster though, so I would like to try this again when it is warm.


How was your traction? I know on the street I have a hell of a time when i gun it. I read someone removing all 4 wheel sensors to eliminate the nanny shuttin him down, I was thinkin of doin this for the staright line but not for every day driving.
 
How was your traction? I know on the street I have a hell of a time when i gun it. I read someone removing all 4 wheel sensors to eliminate the nanny shuttin him down, I was thinkin of doin this for the staright line but not for every day driving.

The problem that I remember being discussed about those who remove the wheel sensors is that the Spyder's computers don't think you are moving. Hence, the steering has max assist available and the slightest pressure on the handlebars can have you rapidly veering to the right or left. :yikes:
 
How was your traction? I know on the street I have a hell of a time when i gun it. I read someone removing all 4 wheel sensors to eliminate the nanny shuttin him down, I was thinkin of doin this for the staright line but not for every day driving.

I know that as the day progressed, my reaction times kept getting worse. Was spending more time spinning out at the line (even got a bit squirly once :shocked:). But I was increasing my speed off the line also. Seemed to be the more rubber on the track, the less traction I had from the start, but the faster top speed I could get. Make sense? :dontknow: This is the first time I have ever tried something like this so I am not sure.
 
I know that as the day progressed, my reaction times kept getting worse. Was spending more time spinning out at the line (even got a bit squirly once :shocked:). But I was increasing my speed off the line also. Seemed to be the more rubber on the track, the less traction I had from the start, but the faster top speed I could get. Make sense? :dontknow: This is the first time I have ever tried something like this so I am not sure.
It takes practice, and some adjustment to track conditions, to be able to anticipate the combination of wheelspin, driver reaction, and clutch slip, to get off the line with consistently minimal reaction times. If you keep it up, you will most certainly get better, and learn to actually start to leave before you see the green, without redlighting.

The inverse realationship between traction and mph is an old one. The speed is more or less an indicator of horsepower, and loosing traction lets the rpms up quicker, and you end up having more available horsepower when the tires finally hook up, improving the mph. Think of it as getting a head start on the rpm. A vehicle that bites well, or bogs off the line, will not generally have as high a top speed as one that fries the tires or does not bog. In the old days, before slipper clutches and two foot wide tires, a dragster with a quick ET would have a lower MPH that an identical dragster that lost ET because of traction problems. Keep in mind that ET, not MPH, wins drag races, however. This all makes perfect sense to an old drag racer.
-Scotty
 
The problem that I remember being discussed about those who remove the wheel sensors is that the Spyder's computers don't think you are moving. Hence, the steering has max assist available and the slightest pressure on the handlebars can have you rapidly veering to the right or left. :yikes:

How about pullin the fuse for the power steering?
 
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