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2024 RT limited and I’m experiencing the main display going blank - any ideas to fix?

Monk/Bob

Monk/Bob

Member
The bike currently has 600+ miles. While riding the display will suddenly go blank. Usually it will come back on after I turn off the key and let it sit for a minute then restart. This has happened almost a half dozen times since I bought the bike in mid July. When riding with the display blank I see a periodic flash of the icons in the black area below the main display where the parking brake light is located.

The first suggestion I got from the dealership was to tighten the battery cables and to put the bike on a battery tender. Did that, it did not help. Next they updated the bike to the latest software. But I’m still having the issue? The next suggestion was to take it to the dealership and have them do a reflash (whip the main display, and install the latest software).

I did take the bike out yesterday for about 50 miles with no issues? The only difference was I put a data blocker on the bike plug before hooking up my phone? Not sure if that would have anything to do with it? Would ACP trying to come on and failing have anything to do with the blank screen? BTW: I am not using ACP and have no intention of using it.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

At 600 miles I’m beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel when it comes to learning how to handle this machine. I’m not there yet, but I’m almost ready to try it without ECO mode. 😉 but the display going blank is driving me nuts!!

Thank you
 
I would remove the data blocker and leave your phone unplugged and see what happens. I have had mine for almost a year now and never saw the display blank out.
 
The dash display doing that is often a sign of a dying or dead battery, especially on the 2020+ Spyders that left the factory with the under-powered cheap batteries! If you've got one of them and it's lasted OK for 6 months, you've done well - but that juuuust happens to be how long the battery is warrantied for, so it'll be your dime paying for a new battery if you've gone a second past that 6 months!!

If your battery is the one of the cheap crap brand units that BRP has taken to installing, then don't waste your time, even if it's not the specific problem here, it will be soon enough, so just get a new battery and remove that possibility from the equation, something with at least 350 CCA & 21 A/hr capacity (search on Yuasa here. ;)) - and don't take anyone's word that it's been properly initialised and charged before installation unless you'd trust them with your life! The battery NEEDS that proper initialisation, and at least 8 hours of proper charging before installation, or it'll fail sooner rather than lasting for the few years or more that most expect from good quality automotive batteries.

Just Sayin' ;)
 
If your bike's that new, it's still under warranty, take it in and have them check it out, and LOAD test the battery!
 
Monk/Bob said:
I did that, and it tested fine but was told it needed a full charge, e.g. the battery tender👍
Click to expand...
Yeah, normal 'load testing' isn't good enough for our power hungry Spyders. As MANY here have found, if the battery voltage drops below 12 Volts at any time under load, you will likely have issues just like those you describe, weird & otherwise invalid codes, &/or a cascade of warnings/error codes/Limp Home modes, if you aren't experiencing any/all of them already!! :rolleyes:

10.7 - 11 volts might be OK for less power hungry old school vehicles & engines, but with all the fuel injection systems, sensors, computers, controllers, solenoids etc on our Spyders, MANY of which get triggered when you turn the key, MANY MORE being triggered as well as all those others the instant you press the starter, we've found that anything less than 12 Volts simply won't cut it for long!! And the 2020+ 300 CCA cheap crap batteries installed at the factory will rarely manage that on a good day, let alone after 6 months! :cautious:

And any new battery, even one installed by the factory, NEEDS at least 8 hours of charge by an appropriate charger BEFORE it's put into service - fail to do that, the battery is doomed to early failure! 😖
 
Where I am with this:

The battery is a YUSA High Performance with 350 (CCA)

Regarding the volts: When I turn on the key I see 12.2 up to 12.7. Running down the road at speed it shows 14.4 and will drop to 14.2 when I slow down. It will drop slightly below 12 while cranking.

About 20 minutes into my last ride the screen went blank again. After that (as suggested) I unplugged the phone and data blocker to see if that will have any effect?

My appointment with the dealer to have the screen reflashed is in 3 weeks.
 
Thought I would follow up on where I am with the display going blank.

It has not happened for the last 1,000 miles.

What I did: I disabled Apple CarPlay on my phone and use the data blocker to keep the Spyder computer from trying to get me to turn it on anyway.

That’s it? 🤷‍♂️
 
Monk/Bob said:
Thought I would follow up on where I am with the display going blank.

It has not happened for the last 1,000 miles.

What I did: I disabled Apple CarPlay on my phone and use the data blocker to keep the Spyder computer from trying to get me to turn it on anyway.

That’s it? 🤷‍♂️
Click to expand...

Always good to provide an update on problems. Good luck and Thanks!
 
Monk/Bob said:
Thought I would follow up on where I am with the display going blank.

It has not happened for the last 1,000 miles.

What I did: I disabled Apple CarPlay on my phone and use the data blocker to keep the Spyder computer from trying to get me to turn it on anyway.

That’s it? 🤷‍♂️
Click to expand...

Well, I should have kept my mouth shut!!

Went for short ride today and about 20 miles into it, the screen went blank!! :cautious:

I was sure hoping that was taken care of!!!
 
Monk/Bob said:
Well, I should have kept my mouth shut!!

Went for short ride today and about 20 miles into it, the screen went blank!! :cautious:

I was sure hoping that was taken care of!!!
Click to expand...
Did you ever find a solution? My 2024 has blanked 3 times now and there is an error about the cluster losing communication in the log. The dealer charged me an hour of diagnostics time and tightened the battery terminals, but did nothing else. Today, it blanked for the first time since the dealer tightened the terminals.
 
Well star washers on terminals, maybe scuff the battery terminals with a wire brush ¿. Additionally blatant safety issue & warranty at that get dealer open case with BRP cares while get you on a loaner.
 
Replaced the battery with a NOCO NLP20 this week to troubleshoot the issue from a battery perspective. Running at full load - all the heated stuff on, results in an idle voltage output of 14.21. Revving the engine will get it up to 14.4 volts. These measurements were taken at the switched 12 volts input to the USB in the trunk- quicker to remove the passenger cushion than the battery cover. Measured at the battery during installation was 14.6 volts with engine revved a bit no additional load.
Let the dealer know about the third instance of display failure, they said to bring it by and they would charge another diagnostic fee to look for codes. I let them do this once and it cost me $180 for nothing as in they did not find anything. I get the sense their SOP is to charge for diags during warranty or really anytime for intermittent issues as a “cash cow” for service. They fooled me once, not going to happen twice!
 
Bob from Florida said:
Replaced the battery with a NOCO NLP20 this week to troubleshoot the issue from a battery perspective. Running at full load - all the heated stuff on, results in an idle voltage output of 14.21. Revving the engine will get it up to 14.4 volts. These measurements were taken at the switched 12 volts input to the USB in the trunk- quicker to remove the passenger cushion than the battery cover. Measured at the battery during installation was 14.6 volts with engine revved a bit no additional load. ...
Click to expand...

All that's nice, but you really need to know what the battery voltage drops to WHILE you're cranking it to start, preferably at the battery terminals. If that voltage drops anything much below 12 volts, then the sort of display issues you're seeing aren't uncommon, often leading on to a cascade of weird and maybe completely unrelated codes and VSS/ABS errors, possibly even Limp Mode! These Spyders are EXTREMELY power hungry, especially while starting, and a weak battery can show up with odd faults, display failures, &/or anything thru to just suddenly stopping running completely while you were cruising along happily! 😖

But I would hope that given you've replaced the battery, it shouldn't be that, altho it's still ALWAYS worth load testing the battery just to be sure - and looking for something close to 12 volts while cranking! Even brand new batteries can fail, or fail to meet their specs! Oh, and you did make sure the new battery was initialised and charged properly before installation, didn't you? 🤨

That's often a bit of a trap too - new batteries NEED to be charged properly before installation, because they rarely get a 'full charge' when they're made & put on the shelf, and then they sit around until being sold... :rolleyes: Even those that aren't filled with acid until they're sold need to let the acid fully work it's way in (which takes a while, often few hours) and then they need to get a full charge, which generally takes at least 8 or so hours on a 2 amp charger, cos a 'fast charge' just doesn't do it properly! So if you purchased a new battery and it was simply installed then and there, without initialising & charging it properly, and you went on your way, that could still be your problem! Even if it isn't the issue NOW, without doing that initial preparation & charging properly, the battery is almost certainly going to be a problem at some time down track, and generally, it'll be sooner than you'd like and sooner than would be possible if only it'd been set up & installed properly! 😖

Just Sayin' ;)
 
Peter Aawen said:
All that's nice, but you really need to know what the battery voltage drops to WHILE you're cranking it to start, preferably at the battery terminals. If that voltage drops anything much below 12 volts, then the sort of display issues you're seeing aren't uncommon, often leading on to a cascade of weird and maybe completely unrelated codes and VSS/ABS errors, possibly even Limp Mode! These Spyders are EXTREMELY power hungry, especially while starting, and a weak battery can show up with odd faults, display failures, &/or anything thru to just suddenly stopping running completely while you were cruising along happily! 😖

But I would hope that given you've replaced the battery, it shouldn't be that, altho it's still ALWAYS worth load testing the battery just to be sure - and looking for something close to 12 volts while cranking! Even brand new batteries can fail, or fail to meet their specs! Oh, and you did make sure the new battery was initialised and charged properly before installation, didn't you? 🤨

That's often a bit of a trap too - new batteries NEED to be charged properly before installation, because they rarely get a 'full charge' when they're made & put on the shelf, and then they sit around until being sold... :rolleyes: Even those that aren't filled with acid until they're sold need to let the acid fully work it's way in (which takes a while, often few hours) and then they need to get a full charge, which generally takes at least 8 or so hours on a 2 amp charger, cos a 'fast charge' just doesn't do it properly! So if you purchased a new battery and it was simply installed then and there, without initialising & charging it properly, and you went on your way, that could still be your problem! Even if it isn't the issue NOW, without doing that initial preparation & charging properly, the battery is almost certainly going to be a problem at some time down track, and generally, it'll be sooner than you'd like and sooner than would be possible if only it'd been set up & installed properly! 😖

Just Sayin' ;)
Click to expand...

Yes, I did fully charge the lithium battery to the recommended 14.6 volts before installing. I did not bother checking the voltage drop at the battery while cranking - it cranked over significantly faster than the factory battery. My display failures have happened at random times - never at start.
Funny thing about the factory battery - the day before I used the Spyder to pack some soil down to level a dip in the lawn I had filled in with topsoil. Must have started it 20 times for 5 minute runs between fill dirt being added. So I expected the battery not to be fully charged. The next day, I installed the new lithium battery. I put the old battery on the charger and it almost immediately indicated full charge, but would drop off fairly quickly back to 12.4 volts. Usually, in my experience, this indicates some sulfating going on resulting in higher internal impedance. So, I will ride the bike as much as possible to look for additional failures. If this does not happen for 6 months, I will call it fixed.
Side story, my 2018 Goldwing DCT would take off on its own from time to time. The dealer and Honda were no help, I filed a report with the NHSTA where I discovered I was not the only owner with the issue. Eventually, I replaced the battery for reasons related to difficulty starting and the bike taking off on its own never happened again - 6 years before trading it on the Spyder last October. So, I do have some understanding of how critical batter voltages are with these modern powersport products.
 
Bob from Florida said:
Yes, I did fully charge the lithium battery to the recommended 14.6 volts before installing. I did not bother checking the voltage drop at the battery while cranking - it cranked over significantly faster than the factory battery. My display failures have happened at random times - never at start.
Funny thing about the factory battery - the day before I used the Spyder to pack some soil down to level a dip in the lawn I had filled in with topsoil. Must have started it 20 times for 5 minute runs between fill dirt being added. So I expected the battery not to be fully charged. The next day, I installed the new lithium battery. I put the old battery on the charger and it almost immediately indicated full charge, but would drop off fairly quickly back to 12.4 volts. Usually, in my experience, this indicates some sulfating going on resulting in higher internal impedance. So, I will ride the bike as much as possible to look for additional failures. If this does not happen for 6 months, I will call it fixed.
Side story, my 2018 Goldwing DCT would take off on its own from time to time. The dealer and Honda were no help, I filed a report with the NHSTA where I discovered I was not the only owner with the issue. Eventually, I replaced the battery for reasons related to difficulty starting and the bike taking off on its own never happened again - 6 years before trading it on the Spyder last October. So, I do have some understanding of how critical batter voltages are with these modern powersport products.
Click to expand...
Hi Bob. I also have a 2024 RT Limited. My display has done the same as yours several times. I have two open cases with BRP now and I happen to have a 2 year warranty. So far, it has not cost me anything at the two different dealers I took it to. I also replaced my battery with Yuasa last January. Did the 8 hour charge. A couple of weeks ago on a short 60 mile ride, the display locked up, twice, then appeared to reboot, and eventually start working again. I was using Carplay with Google maps his time when it happened. I took it to another well known good dealer that had it for two days and tested it with no issue. I asked them to update the case and reach out to BRP to ask for help. My two year warranty runs out in August. BTW, my left front wheel bearing went bad a few days ago. I am taking it back to dealer again on Tuesday, 3/31/26. Hope they can fix the wheel bearing under warranty.
I am thinking about upgrading to a Lithium battery. Do you think the Lithium battery holds charge better while riding and under load?
 
Thanks @Spyderrg. Sounds like I need to visit a different dealer and see if they have any better luck getting BRP to cover things.

I changed the battery as a troubleshooting exercise, just in case it is causing the display “issues”. Lithium will hold its voltage better than lead-acid. Lithium tends to hold “full power” until exhausted. You will need a different charger if your current charger does not have a “Lithium” option.

I might luck out with the battery, but it won’t surprise me if the display is the problem.
 
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