2024 RT limited and I’m experiencing the main display going blank

[Monk/Bob]

The bike currently has 600+ miles. While riding the display will suddenly go blank. Usually it will come back on after I turn off the key and let it sit for a minute then restart. This has happened almost a half dozen times since I bought the bike in mid July. When riding with the display blank I see a periodic flash of the icons in the black area below the main display where the parking brake light is located.

The first suggestion I got from the dealership was to tighten the battery cables and to put the bike on a battery tender. Did that, it did not help. Next they updated the bike to the latest software. But I’m still having the issue? The next suggestion was to take it to the dealership and have them do a reflash (whip the main display, and install the latest software).

I did take the bike out yesterday for about 50 miles with no issues? The only difference was I put a data blocker on the bike plug before hooking up my phone? Not sure if that would have anything to do with it? Would ACP trying to come on and failing have anything to do with the blank screen? BTW: I am not using ACP and have no intention of using it.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

At 600 miles I’m beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel when it comes to learning how to handle this machine. I’m not there yet, but I’m almost ready to try it without ECO mode. but the display going blank is driving me nuts!!

Thank you

 

[jzeiler]

I would remove the data blocker and leave your phone unplugged and see what happens. I have had mine for almost a year now and never saw the display blank out.

 

[Peter Aawen]

The dash display doing that is often a sign of a dying or dead battery, especially on the 2020+ Spyders that left the factory with the under-powered cheap batteries! If you've got one of them and it's lasted OK for 6 months, you've done well - but that juuuust happens to be how long the battery is warrantied for, so it'll be your dime paying for a new battery if you've gone a second past that 6 months!!

If your battery is the one of the cheap crap brand units that BRP has taken to installing, then don't waste your time, even if it's not the specific problem here, it will be soon enough, so just get a new battery and remove that possibility from the equation, something with at least 350 CCA & 21 A/hr capacity (search on Yuasa here. ) - and don't take anyone's word that it's been properly initialised and charged before installation unless you'd trust them with your life! The battery NEEDS that proper initialisation, and at least 8 hours of proper charging before installation, or it'll fail sooner rather than lasting for the few years or more that most expect from good quality automotive batteries.

Just Sayin'

 

[Mikey]

If your bike's that new, it's still under warranty, take it in and have them check it out, and LOAD test the battery!

 

[Monk/Bob]

If your bikes that new, it's still under warrantee, take it in and have them check it out, and LOAD test the battery!

I did that, and it tested fine but was told it needed a full charge, e.g. the battery tender

 

[Peter Aawen]

I did that, and it tested fine but was told it needed a full charge, e.g. the battery tender

Yeah, normal 'load testing' isn't good enough for our power hungry Spyders. As MANY here have found, if the battery voltage drops below 12 Volts at any time under load, you will likely have issues just like those you describe, weird & otherwise invalid codes, &/or a cascade of warnings/error codes/Limp Home modes, if you aren't experiencing any/all of them already!!

10.7 - 11 volts might be OK for less power hungry old school vehicles & engines, but with all the fuel injection systems, sensors, computers, controllers, solenoids etc on our Spyders, MANY of which get triggered when you turn the key, MANY MORE being triggered as well as all those others the instant you press the starter, we've found that anything less than 12 Volts simply won't cut it for long!! And the 2020+ 300 CCA cheap crap batteries installed at the factory will rarely manage that on a good day, let alone after 6 months!

And any new battery, even one installed by the factory, NEEDS at least 8 hours of charge by an appropriate charger BEFORE it's put into service - fail to do that, the battery is doomed to early failure!