pegasus1300
Well-known member
What is that? Is that metal? If you put a backing piece on it JB might hold it.
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The oil plug - Murphy showed up today.
- Thread starter Joel The Biker
- Start date
Isopedella
Well-known member
Thanks for the reply, but it's just a random plucked from the net.
I guess it is a graphic reminder those who poo poo Torques and offer advice to all to just to do it up and what may occur.
While some appreciate how soft some of these metals are on the bikes others really have no idea and it can lead to unnecessary damage and tricky remedies.
Like my thread on the 3rd peg mount bolt torque value for example.
Just do it up was offered.
That bolt had to be quite tight to hold the dropper and peg in place when my full munchkin body weight went on it.
Imagine how much of a job to fix that if it stripped out?
Not everybody here can turn a nut, resulting in damaged and stripped threads.
Non Rocket Arm
Iso
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Edit.
To those who say torque values are a waste of time.
Well put up.
Provide examples of that claim
where a correctly torqued bolt
in the correct spot
has caused problems.
----------------------------------------------------
I did read where the bloke was doing his best to refit the plugs got them mixed and over torqued one.
Commiserations.
At least you were attempting to do the job to a high degree of competency but got a little lost along the way.
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ulflyer
Active member
j
You can't. I used mine several times on my previous F3 and it pulls out about 3 quarts.
Not recommending this, but if you can no longer get down and do a proper change, its better than nothing.
Works great on my two cars though.
EdMat
Well-known member
Or just take the plastic off and leave it off. Makes it cooler in the summer.
Isopedella
Well-known member
Himm. I do wonder if that is a possible reason there are these I stripped sump plug threads.
Tricky to locate the tool in the correct position, ahh thatildoo, whammo - next minute striped the bolt fitting.
Enlarge the hole, well if you have to, I guess.
Also it seems the rattle guns are popular over simple hand tools.
ZZZZRRRRRPPPP. Then... Ah crap. That's not good.
Remove the protective plastic sheet all-together, yeah nah, not for me.
Mine has a few scrape marks and gouges. So its doing its job.
Tricky to locate the tool in the correct position, ahh thatildoo, whammo - next minute striped the bolt fitting.
Enlarge the hole, well if you have to, I guess.
Also it seems the rattle guns are popular over simple hand tools.
ZZZZRRRRRPPPP. Then... Ah crap. That's not good.
Remove the protective plastic sheet all-together, yeah nah, not for me.
Mine has a few scrape marks and gouges. So its doing its job.
Lew L
Well-known member
I've had the thick plastic "bumpskid" on my :spyder2: since it was new. (2014). It's got a few deep scratches on it that would have seriously damaged the thin plastic covers just behind the bumpskid. I wouldn't be without either of those protective covers. A few moments with the Dremel tool has made oil changes cleaner and easier.
Lew L
RangerRick
Active member
I personally would never use the suction method on anything, unless you want the crap to collect in the bottom of the pan. I bought my Chevy Blazer that was used, first time I changed the oil, I removed the drain plug and nothing came out, not even a drop. :hun: I stuck a screw driver in the hole and wiggled it around and out came this wad of slime sticky goop and then the engine oil. Seems that the previous owner was taking it to those quick lube places that suck out the oil, too lazy to pull the drain plug and do it right.
I know this is an old thread, but seems like a good place to ask: The last oil change, I changed out to the magnetic gold plugs. I tightened them to spec (18 & 16ft/lbs IIRC, which felt too light, but I trusted the process, and had no leaks). When I did my most recent oil change, both plugs were MUCH tighter than those torque specs. I even had to use a cheater to break the clutch plug loose. I'm assuming this is normal due to the heating/cooling cycles, right? I am also assuming that using anti-seize on them would be a dumb idea, right?
Woodaddict
Active member
Well, you answered your own question. Torque values are always DRY!! You'll never get an oil plug to be dry. When applying, any lubricant will always make it tighter, so back off on the value some. In approximately 45 yrs of changing oil in cars/trucks/motorcycles, I just tighten up snug, then give it a little more. That would be less than torque values, but NOTHING has ever leaked or come out!!
Never use anti seize either, just ease up the the heavy duty wrenching!!!
Never use anti seize either, just ease up the the heavy duty wrenching!!!
Gwolf
Well-known member
This has been explained time after time. There is no correct torque setting on the oil plugs, not unless you can turn the whole scooter upside down and get the area around the plugs, inside and on the threads completely dry of any drop of oil. Torque settings are for clean, dry threads. The threads around the plugs can never be clean and dry, because small drops or even just the oil film, almost invisible to the naked eye will be on the threads. If you cleaned the threads and did manage to get them totally dry, 10 seconds later another drop of oil would move into the area. You cannot fool mother nature and all the laws of gravity are in her book. Any oil will seek a path toward the core of the earth, slowly maybe, but always continuously.
There is no correct torque setting for lubricated threads and as long as gravity keeps pulling the oil film or loose drops of oil left inside, the threads will continuously be lubricated by the remaining oil inside the engine and transmission. If you put a torque wrench on the plugs of any vehicle that has previously had oil in it, the threads are not going to be clean and dry, and you are not going to have any real idea how much torque you are putting on the plugs, because the lubricated plugs will not have any resistance much to turning tighter until they are far past the recommended torque settings.
There are some guidelines for torquing lubricated threads, but the guidelines are not specific, because the kind of lubricant on the threads; any wear on the treads; any grit in the oil dripping down; the temperature; the type of metals in contact; and a whole book full of other factors affect the torque setting. Most of the guess work of adjusting the torque for lubricated threads claim that you reduce the torque by 25% to 40% of the dry and clean recommended settings. So you are already in the territory of fairy dust and unicorn farts before you come up with some figure to use, and may possibly have moved completely out of the accurate range of your torque wrench before even beginning.
All you can do is run the plugs in hand tight and then turn them on down about a quarter of a turn, then STOP. If you even put a torque wrench on the plugs you will be over-torquing the plugs before getting anywhere near some imaginary torque value for lubricated threads.
The manuals can say whatever they want to say, the engineers can say whatever pops into their heads too. Nothing they say or do can stop gravity from putting oil on the threads and there is no such animal as a torque setting for lubricated threads. Remember those people who fitted the plugs with a tiny little Allen hole or Torx hole to tighten and loosen it instead of a hex head that a socket can fit on - they are the same people who came up with the imaginary torque setting for oil plugs!
There is no correct torque setting for lubricated threads and as long as gravity keeps pulling the oil film or loose drops of oil left inside, the threads will continuously be lubricated by the remaining oil inside the engine and transmission. If you put a torque wrench on the plugs of any vehicle that has previously had oil in it, the threads are not going to be clean and dry, and you are not going to have any real idea how much torque you are putting on the plugs, because the lubricated plugs will not have any resistance much to turning tighter until they are far past the recommended torque settings.
There are some guidelines for torquing lubricated threads, but the guidelines are not specific, because the kind of lubricant on the threads; any wear on the treads; any grit in the oil dripping down; the temperature; the type of metals in contact; and a whole book full of other factors affect the torque setting. Most of the guess work of adjusting the torque for lubricated threads claim that you reduce the torque by 25% to 40% of the dry and clean recommended settings. So you are already in the territory of fairy dust and unicorn farts before you come up with some figure to use, and may possibly have moved completely out of the accurate range of your torque wrench before even beginning.
All you can do is run the plugs in hand tight and then turn them on down about a quarter of a turn, then STOP. If you even put a torque wrench on the plugs you will be over-torquing the plugs before getting anywhere near some imaginary torque value for lubricated threads.
The manuals can say whatever they want to say, the engineers can say whatever pops into their heads too. Nothing they say or do can stop gravity from putting oil on the threads and there is no such animal as a torque setting for lubricated threads. Remember those people who fitted the plugs with a tiny little Allen hole or Torx hole to tighten and loosen it instead of a hex head that a socket can fit on - they are the same people who came up with the imaginary torque setting for oil plugs!
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