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HELP! I threaded the transmission hex bolt! Will JB Weld help get it out?? What else might work?

RPM

RPM

Member
Hello all,

I don't know what genius designed the transmission hex bolt to be right in the way of some screw to the brake linkage, but in trying to remove it, I stripped it. Some told me to use JB weld on it to take it out. Is this an option? What have others done to remove that bolt if they stripped it? I'm doing my first solo oil change and replacing both (hopefully) with the oil plugs from Lamonster.

Thanks!
Robert
 
RPM said:
I don't know what genius designed the transmission hex bolt...
Click to expand...

No genius, an idiot. The left hand doesn't know what the right hand is doing. 👎

The brake linkage bolt below that drain plug needs to be removed and replaced in the opposite direction, thereby giving clear access to the drain plug. I have found that the plug is very tight from the factory but a couple of smacks to it with a hammer seems to break it free enough to come out with less torque.

JB weld is of no help if it's stripped the hex but try above.
 
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What is stripped? Is it one of the oil drain plugs? I really don't know of any bolts that have to be removed to change the oil.

If it is drain plug, you can get it out. There are ways. A bolt, I don't know what bolt...
 
Exactly what bolt are you talking about. Maybe a picture would help us, help you. To do an oil change there are two drain plugs to drain all the oil. No other bolts need to be removed. So please clarify for us.
 
Do you mean you rounded out the 6mm Allen head plug that is an OEM drain plug? If you rounded/stripped a hex head drain plug try vice grips.
 
RPM said:
Sorry, the hex head bolt for draining the transmission oil
Click to expand...
OK, I understand your problem.
1st, Get your Syder up in the air high enough to work under, approx 18"-24"
2nd, SECURE IT! So it can't move or roll
3rd, Turn that brake linkage BOLT around so the nut is on the opposite side
4th, Get a new top quality hex allen socket and tap it in with a hammer to make sure it has full contact
5th, Use a breaker bar or long handled rachet, counter clockwise, (lefty-losy)
6th,If that doesn't get it, you need stubby easy-outs and some extra LUCK!
7th, when you get it out, replace with Lamonsters oil plug kit, with a wrench head

THROW that old plug as far as you can!

GOOD LUCK, Bill
 
Thank you!! I will do that. Fortunately, I just got a Big Blue Lift and the bike is about 2.5 feet in the air, so there is plenty of room to get in there.

I already have put Lamonster's drain plug on the engine oil side.

Thank you, Knizar!!! That did it! Removing and reversing the brake linkage bolt made ALL the difference in the world. It allowed a straight shot to the plug. A little pounding and it came out.

Thank you so much!!
Robert

By the way, some engineer/design team HAD to know that linkage bolt position was wrong!! Do they even work on the bikes after engineering them? Sorry for the rant, but this cost me a lot of time today.

Have a good night.
 
First, I understand your pain. And the external hex head replacements are a good solution. But I have to say that done correctly, the OEM drain plugs work just fine. I'm still using my original drain plugs on my 2008 Premier Edition 998 GS. Just saying that it can be done. The key is to gently snug these drain plugs when reinstalling. People seem determined to get them way too tight.

I've never seen a drain plug fall out. But I've seen many stripped out as described here.
 
RPM said:
..... By the way, some engineer/design team HAD to know that linkage bolt position was wrong!! Do they even work on the bikes after engineering them? Sorry for the rant, but this cost me a lot of time today...
Click to expand...

Without wanting to be demeaning - as you have such good access under the trike it should have been apparent that the brake link bolt prevents straight access to that plug. The fix of removing it should have been obvious - no offense intended.

As said, the left hand doesn't know what the right hand has done on the assembly line of these machines and no, those hands don't service them.

I've found that the torx plug on the left side is prone to leak unless done up VERY tight. I now have a SlingMods SM6863 on hand for when I service friends' trikes.
 
Freddy said:
Without wanting to be demeaning - as you have such good access under the trike it should have been apparent that the brake link bolt prevents straight access to that plug. The fix of removing it should have been obvious - no offense intended.

As said, the left hand doesn't know what the right hand has done on the assembly line of these machines and no, those hands don't service them.

I've found that the torx plug on the left side is prone to leak unless done up VERY tight. I now have a SlingMods SM6863 on hand for when I service friends' trikes.
Click to expand...
You're correct! 20/20 hindsight is always best... One more question, I'm finishing up and wanted to know the torque specs for that linkage nut and the service manual states anytime it's removed, it needs to be replaced with a new one. I would imagine this is a critical linkage, does everyone else replace it or just use the same one?
 
boolt torqes.gif

You could just clean the Locktite off and reuse the bolt, but just one bolt is cheap insurance. Any hardware store has bins full of them.

You can always replace bolts with a higher grade bolt, except when the bolt is used as a shear pin. Not good to go to lower grade then.

Same as before... any hardware store has bins full of bolts and nuts, of different grades and sizes. Take the old bolt with you and they will send a gofer back to get you some.

Need a metric chart, they are all over the web...
 
RPM said:
You're correct! 20/20 hindsight is always best... One more question, I'm finishing up and wanted to know the torque specs for that linkage nut and the service manual states anytime it's removed, it needs to be replaced with a new one. I would imagine this is a critical linkage, does everyone else replace it or just use the same one?
Click to expand...
I will NOT tell you that you can use that same brake linkage bolt!
I will tell you that I used the SAME linkage bolt when I turned the bolt around on MY Spyder.
I tightened the bolt so it won't fall out, NO torque wrench used.

I do NOT want a LAW SUIT!

Good Luck, Bill
 

RPM said:
..... One more question, I'm finishing up and wanted to know the torque specs for that linkage nut and the service manual states anytime it's removed, it needs to be replaced with a new one. I would imagine this is a critical linkage, does everyone else replace it or just use the same one?
Click to expand...

You and I know (others may not) that it's an odd sort of bolt. It has a thin flat head and 4mm (iirc) recess in it for an Allen key. I reuse it as is. The thread locker already on it helps to keep the nut tight when snugged up. As for torque, the older Spyder service manual had a torque spec chart for general use where specified torque for 'special' fasteners wasn't given.

Engineers obviously designed that bolt to go in the way it was NOT fitted on the assembly line so as to give the required clearance for that drain plug. (y) The instruction on direction of fitment got lost, sadly, in the mail between design and the line. 😡

6mm Spyder part number 250000714

A metric bolt torque chart will show up on Google if you really want it.
 
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