Hard knock when placed in Reverse

[Blade]

Hi all, every time I put my spyder in reverse I get a hardknock. Is this normal. It seems to happen the first time I go to back out of my garage but after riding it doesn't knock as hard.

Blade

 

[Cruzr Joe]

Hi all, every time I put my spyder in reverse I get a hardknock. Is this normal. It seems to happen the first time I go to back out of my garage but after riding it doesn't knock as hard.

Blade

Pretty normal, after the bike warms up and gets the oil flowing good it lessens the shift, but be sure that your oil level is full.


Cruzr Joe

 

[ARtraveler]

This is the one place where the saying "they all do that" is right on the money.

If your mechanic tells you that...watch out. :yikes:

The first shift of the morning always goes KLUNK...big time. This has been the same across all five :spyder2:'s I have owned.

 

[Bob Denman]

"CLUNK"!, is the normal thing to expect...

 

[Magdave]

If you go from First to reverse by holding the button and shift paddle down when shifting most of the time it is quieter. In other words push the "R" and hold the downshift paddle until it is in reverse. Of course this only applies to Auto shifts trannies. Essies. :thumbup:

 

[robmorg]

You are absolutely right, Dave. And it works both ways - first to reverse, and reverse to first. Holding that paddle down is both quicker and less clunky. :thumbup:

 

[gypsy_100]

Hi all, every time I put my spyder in reverse I get a hardknock. Is this normal. It seems to happen the first time I go to back out of my garage but after riding it doesn't knock as hard.

Blade

Pretty normal, after the bike warms up and gets the oil flowing good it lessens the shift, but be sure that your oil level is full.

Cruzr Joe

Agree with everybody's comments. Motorcycle clutches like these are multi-plate clutches with very tight clearances in between the plates when the clutch is disengaged. They are wet clutches which means the entire assembly is bathed in engine oil. The viscous drag of the oil between the plates is enough to keep them slightly turning even though the clutch is disengaged. Thus when you put it into first or reverse, it clunks as now you are engaging the gears and stopping all rotation. As the oil heats up and gets thinner, there is less viscous drag and less clunk.

 

[DrewNJ]

Unsynchronized straight gut gears. Totally Normal.

 

[jaherbst]

Hi all, every time I put my spyder in reverse I get a hardknock. Is this normal. It seems to happen the first time I go to back out of my garage but after riding it doesn't knock as hard.

Blade

After starting you will notice about 1200 RPM. Let it idle a few seconds until RPM drops to around 900. This gets the oil circulating in the transmission and it will shift with a lot less hard knock. (an old Indian trick I learned from my Grandpappy)

Jack

 

[garb55]

After starting you will notice about 1200 RPM. Let it idle a few seconds until RPM drops to around 900. This gets the oil circulating in the transmission and it will shift with a lot less hard knock. (an old Indian trick I learned from my Grandpappy)

Jack

I didn't know the ponies the Indians rode had wet clutches :roflblack:

 

[Jfhaas]

Isn't that how you normally shift. When I start up its always in neutral. Going from neutral to 1st or neutral to reverse clucks. Maybe I'm missing something, please walk me thru your shifting to lessen clucks. Thanks. Jack

 

[Magdave]

Isn't that how you normally shift. When I start up its always in neutral. Going from neutral to 1st or neutral to reverse clucks. Maybe I'm missing something, please walk me thru your shifting to lessen clucks. Thanks. Jack

You are not going to avoid that. What Rob and I were talking about is going from 1st to Rev or vice versa you can lessen the clunk by holding paddle down between those. :thumbup:

 

[jaherbst]

I didn't know the ponies the Indians rode had wet clutches :roflblack:

Good One!

Jack

 

[Bob Denman]

 

[jwood4242]

"Clunk"

Mine does it, I've read somewhere that maybe full synthetic oil helps and will consider that at next service. Guess the clunk is normal but if I could change one thing about my Spyder it would be that, it makes me cringe every time!

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

You are absolutely right, Dave. And it works both ways - first to reverse, and reverse to first. Holding that paddle down is both quicker and less clunky. :thumbup:

Reverse to first works that way also, really? I've never been able to get it to do that. Must not be holding the buttons down long enough although I thought I did. I wondered why that feature didn't exist. Another case of operator error???? :duh:

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

After starting you will notice about 1200 RPM. Let it idle a few seconds until RPM drops to around 900. This gets the oil circulating in the transmission and it will shift with a lot less hard knock. (an old Indian trick I learned from my Grandpappy)

Jack

That's for the 1330, right? Idle for the 998 is 1400 and I see it drop to that pretty quickly after starting. Still get pretty good clunk!

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Mine does it, I've read somewhere that maybe full synthetic oil helps and will consider that at next service. Guess the clunk is normal but if I could change one thing about my Spyder it would be that, it makes me cringe every time!

Ahh, you'll get used to it after awhile! :thumbup: