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desperate

H

hancycle

New member
I switched from 2 to 3 wheels over a year ago (left AK amputation long time ago).
Well, the Spyder RS-S SE5 was the ticket. Rode it several long trips.
About 6 weeks ago, preparing for a 2k trip, it went to "Limp mode."
ABS Fault
VSS Fault
Check DPS
Took it home and pulled codes --- "no active codes"
After about ~5 miles later it went back to limp.
Pulled codes while engine light was blinking:
C0044
P2545
U0122
Took it to the local dealer (Team Mancuso Powersports SW) .
6 weeks later, they still have no clue, other than there must be s a wiring problem.
All that @ $99/ hr.
I asked them to give me a trade-in for a F 3, but the can't figure what to give me for my RS.
What to do?
 
Check your battery connections... The DPS is the single largest consumer of power, and it often gets... cranky, when it starts feeling shortchanged...
Otherwise; could you have had some critters chewing on the wiring?:dontknow:
 
Did they check the battery or is the battery fairly new like under 3 years old? When my wife's battery started to die it would do weird stuff like that. New battery too care of it.
 
It could be a simple thing like loose battery connection or bad battery.

I believe your dealer name has come up before--similar stuff.

6 weeks and they don't have a clue, can't or won't help you to get a different Spyder

Try a different dealer if possible.

Same thing happened here with the "other" dealer. Friends had same issue with their new RT. Dealer could not figure anything out. Was on a fix one issue at a time until they figure it out. (Two weeks per issue).

They took it to the other dealer finally. Loose battery connection and all is now well.
 
limp mode

just a question did you happen to replace any lights in the brake area

mine did the same thing after I placed LED brake lights in it

removed them and have no more problems from that
 
Spyder is a 2011 RS-S SE5 with ~5k miles.
Battery, lights, fuses, BLS all have been checked and passed.
I don't ride the brake.
Coincudence or not, I installed the saddlebag kit just prior.
No other dealer in town but there are 4 locations.
 
hancycle said:
Spyder is a 2011 RS-S SE5 with ~5k miles.
Battery, lights, fuses, BLS all have been checked and passed.
I don't ride the brake.
Coincudence or not, I installed the saddlebag kit just prior.
No other dealer in town but there are 4 locations.
Click to expand...

You say some items have been checked. By yourself?

If not, I would remove a couple of panels & check the battery connections myself. A lot of dealers will say they have checked things just to keep you quiet.

Charge the battery while you have the panels off. Buy a Battery Tender Jr & permanently connect a pigtail so you can easily connect the Battery Tender when the Spyder is not in use. Make sure the battery terminals are clean & tight.
 
oldgoat said:
...Buy a Battery Tender Jr & permanently connect a pigtail so you can easily connect the Battery Tender when the Spyder is not in use. Make sure the battery terminals are clean & tight.
Click to expand...

Oldgoat speaks truth. The last thing I do after getting off either of my bikes is hook up the tender, then I head inside. Nothing like a nice green battery tender light in the morning.
 
limp mode

double check your rear light connections I know its a pain
but last thing you did was install the hard bags I would go to that
 
All things mentioned have been done by the dealer tech.
One thing comes to mind.
When I hooked up a pigtail for the battery tender I could not unscrew nor tighten the negative connection near the rear fuse panel. Whatever this bolt screws into (well nut?) turns. That was a year ago.
I think I will mention this to the service people.
 
hancycle said:
All things mentioned have been done by the dealer tech.
One thing comes to mind.
When I hooked up a pigtail for the battery tender I could not unscrew nor tighten the negative connection near the rear fuse panel. Whatever this bolt screws into (well nut?) turns. That was a year ago.
I think I will mention this to the service people.
Click to expand...

There is a nut on the end of that bolt but it is "very" difficult to access. I had to try a lot of wrenches before I found one that would go on the nut. It is just as important to have that one tight as the battery terminals as it is part of the ground circuit.

Good luck getting your eye on the nut & being able to tighten it.
 
Resolved

Called earlier this week and left a message for the tech that I know there is a bad battery ground connection (ground post under the seat next to the rear fuse box). Nut in the back turns and I could not re-tighten it. Did this a year ago.
Called back yesterday to find the message was not passed on. This time I got the right guy and informed him of what I know.
They called me back 2 hrs later and told me they found the problem: a broken wire in the brake system. They will charge me for 6 hrs labor (@ $ 99/ ).
Mhhh. What a coincidence.
Well, at least it's fixed. I just have to believe what they tell me.
Thanks for all your input, especially the advise of checking for poor battery/connections.
 
:congrats: Glad to hear that you're back, and "up on three" again! :yes:
Please keep us informed; it'd be nice to know if this solves ALL of the problems! :thumbup:
 
Great to hear that the problem was resolved for you! :thumbup:

But now you have another problem... You have to decide whether or not you still want to trade it in for the F3. ;)
 
Dealers are great. Some better then others but it sure seems like if you have a problem it's best to run it by the people here on Spyderlovers. Seems they almost always get it figured out with all the brain storming.


Scott
 
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