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Do new shocks affect alignment?
- Thread starter Buggy
- Start date
Copperman
Active member
It shouldn't.
I had Elka shocks installed at Spyderfest and John told me they won't affect the alignment.
I had Elka shocks installed at Spyderfest and John told me they won't affect the alignment.
PMK
Active member
I say yes. It may not be much, but the bump steer on the Spyder is a fact. If the front is raised or lowered by installing new fronts shocks, then the alignment will change.
Would be best to do all the mods then align. Your call but we have had the guys that do alignments ay just setting belt tension of the rear wheel requires realigning.
PK
Would be best to do all the mods then align. Your call but we have had the guys that do alignments ay just setting belt tension of the rear wheel requires realigning.
PK
BajaRon
Well-known member
Measure ride height before you get the Elka's installed.
With typical loading in your storage (especially the front) and you sitting on the Spyder, measure from the ground to a point on the nose of your Spyder. Be sure you're on flat ground. Then you will know if your ride height has changed, and by how much when you install the Elka's.
A little change should not be a problem. Too much change means you'll need to either adjust your spring pre-load setting or get another alignment for the new ride height.
With typical loading in your storage (especially the front) and you sitting on the Spyder, measure from the ground to a point on the nose of your Spyder. Be sure you're on flat ground. Then you will know if your ride height has changed, and by how much when you install the Elka's.
A little change should not be a problem. Too much change means you'll need to either adjust your spring pre-load setting or get another alignment for the new ride height.
SpyderAnn01
Active member
You are correct.
If possible you should get your Elkas installed first before the alignment. The sway bar has no affect on the alignment so you could do that before or after.
BajaRon
Well-known member
Bob Denman
New member
Bob Denman
New member
PMK
Active member
Bob we have a 14 so that is all I have worked with. DrewNJ has worked with other years and he is of the opinion align if the height changes.
Honestly, and I still consider myself a newbie here, it may be that prior to laser alignments there were no concerns it was simply accepted.
I do know our 14 was not very good out of the box.
The less chassis roll, the less bump steer. The Baja Ron anti sway bar keeps the chassis more flat when cornering, that coupled with a good alignment, makes the front steer less on its own.
Realize I still have not gotten a laser alignment, I did the alignment myself. When correct these machines are pretty tame and easy to ride. Off a bit, like ours was delivered, and it darts and weaves from the excessive toe out.
PK
PMK
Active member
Bob, I reread your post and felt I needed to add more.
By design, every vehicle has a typical rider size and weight.
Light riders will not compress the suspension as much as a heavier rider or someone that carries books in the frunk.
With double A arm (wishbone) front suspension, there is an optimum angle for all the suspension arms to be at when static and loaded.
Preload is simply a means to find that sweetspot of ride height for a rider that is close to the ideal typical rider.
Those that are super light or heavy, may find preload helps to get close to the sweet spot. However, the light rider may find the ride too firm on account of spring rate, or if aggressive in their riding style they may prefer the firmer setup. (Thinks sports car). The heavy rider could find the springs rate too soft and regardless of preload the bike will induce more lean or chassis roll (think 59 Cadillac around a fast corner).
It's a shame we don't have a suspension chart on this site. One where the rider can see what is optimum ride height for his machine, plus, find his weight to select proper springs.
Proper springs, with correct ride height adjusted by preload will optimize the chassis.
The cautious downside is that the shocks internals may need to be altered in extreme cases.
I so do want a set of Ohlins TTx for all three points. I do have another option being friends with a Race Tech insider, that possibly I can find some extra $ and have some RT shocks built.
All in time, since my wife and I are not super heavy nor super light the machine does very well as is.
PK
By design, every vehicle has a typical rider size and weight.
Light riders will not compress the suspension as much as a heavier rider or someone that carries books in the frunk.
With double A arm (wishbone) front suspension, there is an optimum angle for all the suspension arms to be at when static and loaded.
Preload is simply a means to find that sweetspot of ride height for a rider that is close to the ideal typical rider.
Those that are super light or heavy, may find preload helps to get close to the sweet spot. However, the light rider may find the ride too firm on account of spring rate, or if aggressive in their riding style they may prefer the firmer setup. (Thinks sports car). The heavy rider could find the springs rate too soft and regardless of preload the bike will induce more lean or chassis roll (think 59 Cadillac around a fast corner).
It's a shame we don't have a suspension chart on this site. One where the rider can see what is optimum ride height for his machine, plus, find his weight to select proper springs.
Proper springs, with correct ride height adjusted by preload will optimize the chassis.
The cautious downside is that the shocks internals may need to be altered in extreme cases.
I so do want a set of Ohlins TTx for all three points. I do have another option being friends with a Race Tech insider, that possibly I can find some extra $ and have some RT shocks built.
All in time, since my wife and I are not super heavy nor super light the machine does very well as is.
PK
Bob Denman
New member
:agree: Didn't BRP supply dealers with struts, that they'd replace the shocks with, when performing an alignment.
What we should try and find out, is what ride height those struts produced... :thumbup:
What we should try and find out, is what ride height those struts produced... :thumbup:
PMK
Active member
Yes.
Also, those that want to compare or use a valid setting need to use the a hardpoint. On most vehicles they measure ground to the lower suspension pivot point, left and right. This ensures, when done correctly, an accurate repeatable result.
Measuring to the bodywork gets it close, but body panels have a wide tolerance for fitting.
As a general rule, the lower A arms should be close to level, but always with the inboard end higher than the outboard end when a rider, fuel etc is loaded.
PK
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