• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Oil level issue..

Vader

New member
2008 GS, second owner, bought it with approximately 3,400 miles and currently have 4,692 miles.

With recent posts dealing with this topic, I decided to check and see after a long ride. As mentioned in the owners manual and by others, I made sure to check after bringing it to operating temperature, after the ryde. There was just and indication of oil on the end of the dip stick. I purchased a quart of Castrol Power RS 10W-40. Added about half. I then went on another 20 minute ryde today and the level is almost halfway between "add" and "full", acceptable. I may try and add a small amount to see about getting it between the halfway and full marks.
Any opinions?

My second question deals with the next service at 5,000 miles. I have a trusted dealer and although I could do the oil change myself, I feel it best to bring it to them and let the experts do the oil change as well as the 5K maintenance.
Any opinions either way would be greatly appreciated.
 
2008 GS, second owner, bought it with approximately 3,400 miles and currently have 4,692 miles.

With recent posts dealing with this topic, I decided to check and see after a long ride. As mentioned in the owners manual and by others, I made sure to check after bringing it to operating temperature, after the ryde. There was just and indication of oil on the end of the dip stick. I purchased a quart of Castrol Power RS 10W-40. Added about half. I then went on another 20 minute ryde today and the level is almost halfway between "add" and "full", acceptable. I may try and add a small amount to see about getting it between the halfway and full marks.
Any opinions?

My second question deals with the next service at 5,000 miles. I have a trusted dealer and although I could do the oil change myself, I feel it best to bring it to them and let the experts do the oil change as well as the 5K maintenance.
Any opinions either way would be greatly appreciated.

Changing the oil yourself is not hard. You'll save money and learn something about your ride. They may be 'Experts' but it's not their bike. Results vary.

The oil you're using is SL rated which means it's got friction modifiers. The clutch on the pre 2013 Spyders is very sensitive to these friction modifiers and they can cause clutch slippage. You probably don't have enough in to be a problem. But be careful. Replacing the clutch is an expensive proposition.
 
Levels

you will find changes in level vary with the rydes. Weather, traffic, roads etc affect the level in different ways. I got used to checking the level after long rydes. Park it hot check and top off so ready for the next ryde. Always keep extra oil that you use in your machine on hand. Be it brp or other brands. Not all name brands are good for bikes so check that they meet the spec's in the manual. Ron carries amsoil which is very good oil I use xps semi synthetic cause I can get the kits for oil change online with filters orings etc and an extra qt for topping off. :thumbup:
 
Changing the oil yourself is not hard. You'll save money and learn something about your ride. They may be 'Experts' but it's not their bike. Results vary.

The oil you're using is SL rated which means it's got friction modifiers. The clutch on the pre 2013 Spyders is very sensitive to these friction modifiers and they can cause clutch slippage. You probably don't have enough in to be a problem. But be careful. Replacing the clutch is an expensive proposition.


BajaRon I'm confused. You warn against using SL rated oil on pre 2013 Spyders. My 2008 SM5 owners manual and service manual (page 90 and 91) says:

Recommended Engine Oil (owners manual page 90)
The same oil lubricates the engine, the gearbox and the clutch. Use BRP XP-S 5W40 synthetic oil (P/N 293 600 039) or an equivalent motorcycle oil meeting the requirements
for API service SL, SJ, SH or SG classification. Always check the API service label on the oil container.

NOTICE (owners manual page 91)
To avoid damaging the clutch, do not use a motor oil meeting theAPI service SMor ILSACGF-4 classification. Clutch slippage will occurs.

I also use Castrol Power RS Racing 4T 10W-40 Fully Synthetic Motorcycle Oil...am I wrong in using this? Confused:banghead:
 
BajaRon I'm confused. You warn against using SL rated oil on pre 2013 Spyders. My 2008 SM5 owners manual and service manual (page 90 and 91) says:

Recommended Engine Oil (owners manual page 90)
The same oil lubricates the engine, the gearbox and the clutch. Use BRP XP-S 5W40 synthetic oil (P/N 293 600 039) or an equivalent motorcycle oil meeting the requirements
for API service SL, SJ, SH or SG classification. Always check the API service label on the oil container.

NOTICE (owners manual page 91)
To avoid damaging the clutch, do not use a motor oil meeting theAPI service SMor ILSACGF-4 classification. Clutch slippage will occurs.

I also use Castrol Power RS Racing 4T 10W-40 Fully Synthetic Motorcycle Oil...am I wrong in using this? Confused:banghead:

I think Ron may have made a typo. You are correct it is SM you must avoid. Finding a 5W40 motorcycle is hard to do and 10W40 is just fine. Just another comment about that quote from your owners manual. The BRP oil has changed since your manual was written. BRP now recommends their Blended oil.
 
BajaRon I'm confused. You warn against using SL rated oil on pre 2013 Spyders. My 2008 SM5 owners manual and service manual (page 90 and 91) says:

Recommended Engine Oil (owners manual page 90)
The same oil lubricates the engine, the gearbox and the clutch. Use BRP XP-S 5W40 synthetic oil (P/N 293 600 039) or an equivalent motorcycle oil meeting the requirements
for API service SL, SJ, SH or SG classification. Always check the API service label on the oil container.

NOTICE (owners manual page 91)
To avoid damaging the clutch, do not use a motor oil meeting theAPI service SMor ILSACGF-4 classification. Clutch slippage will occurs.

I also use Castrol Power RS Racing 4T 10W-40 Fully Synthetic Motorcycle Oil...am I wrong in using this? Confused:banghead:

billybovine is right. I typed SL when I meant SM. Need to be more careful with my fingers! Thanks for catching that. I would have been leading people astray.
 
Back
Top