Improved handling

[Dragonrider]

In another thread, I mentioned that I had a lot of scraping from "heaves" and cracks in the tarmac last fall, with my new 2014.

This winter, I have installed Baja Ron's sway bar, and Doc's spring stiffeners. My RT no longer scrapes on bad roads, and has added 5-10mph to its cornering ability - these were the perfect fixes for my RT - affordable, and reasonably easy to accomplish.

I had no desire to replace the shocks, like I did on my 2010 RT, or even the springs. Now I won't have to consider it.

What I have noticed, is that it is easier to lift a wheel in the corners - or perhaps I'm just running that much faster??

 

[Roadster Renovations]

In another thread, I mentioned that I had a lot of scraping from "heaves" and cracks in the tarmac last fall, with my new 2014.

This winter, I have installed Baja Ron's sway bar, and Doc's spring stiffeners. My RT no longer scrapes on bad roads, and has added 5-10mph to its cornering ability - these were the perfect fixes for my RT - affordable, and reasonably easy to accomplish.

I had no desire to replace the shocks, like I did on my 2010 RT, or even the springs. Now I won't have to consider it.

What I have noticed, is that it is easier to lift a wheel in the corners - or perhaps I'm just running that much faster??

That is awesome! Glad they worked well for you. Are you using one position or two?

 

[Chupaca]

Good to hear..!!

glad your dialing her in. Now enjoy the new ryde. That swaybar is a big help and good to know the stiffners are working as well...:thumbup:

 

[spacetiger]

Dragonrider,

Good for you on making the necessary changes to address your challenge areas.

Can you measure the distance you have under the nose to the ground with no rider onboard? Write that number down and check it every year or so to see if it changes.

Jerry

 

[Dragonrider]

Added to the RT's "Road Trip" app on my iPhone.

 

[Roadster Renovations]

Dragonrider,

Good for you on making the necessary changes to address your challenge areas.

Can you measure the distance you have under the nose to the ground with no rider onboard? Write that number down and check it every year or so to see if it changes.

Jerry

One thing you also might make note of is what position you have the rear air suspension set at.

 

[Dragonrider]

No settings there - perhaps air pressure...

 

[Roadster Renovations]

No settings there - perhaps air pressure...

Thought your ryde was a 2014 RTSE6. I have the same bike and it has an adjustable air toggle switch to set the firmness of the rear air shock. How do you adjust yours?

 

[Dragonrider]

Doc - I have a 2014 RT SE6 - No floorboards, fog lights, or push button adjustable rear pressure. I have to add air from my compressor to increase the shock "stiffness". I found that I changed the pressure on my 2010 two or three times in 15,000 miles and three years. So I saved the $5K difference. Besides, I don't like the "new" front fenders and BRP floorboards, and my RT didn't have either.

 

[Roadster Renovations]

Doc - I have a 2014 RT SE6 - No floorboards, fog lights, or push button adjustable rear pressure. I have to add air from my compressor to increase the shock "stiffness". I found that I changed the pressure on my 2010 two or three times in 15,000 miles and three years. So I saved the $5K difference. Besides, I don't like the "new" front fenders and BRP floorboards, and my RT didn't have either.

That is a substantial savings! I am constantly changing mine depending on whether we are riding 2 up or not.

 

[Roadster Renovations]

You know one thing I haven't said anything about the Spring Stiffeners that I built into them on purpose was the easy removal. If for some reason I need to take my bike in and my dealer hassles me about them, a wrench and 5 minutes have them off. You don't even need to jack up the bike to remove them. That way, if I am out of State, in a strange town with a unknown dealer, I can just remove them before going there to avoid the possible hassle. Hope that never happens, but if it does I am prepared for it.

 

[RBS66]

Quote
(What I have noticed, is that it is easier to lift a wheel in the corners - or perhaps I'm just running that much faster?? )

Can you explain this a little more? I also asked Cruzr Joe the same question. He is testing baja Rons new shock adjusters. Wheel lift kind of freaks me out a little ..

 

[Dragonrider]

I doubt it's actually more that a "lightening" of the outside corner, as the bike is stiffer on it's axis - if it was an actual lift, I would feel the Nanny kick in and bring it down. The RT feels like it responds better, and you don't feel like it's going to toss you off in a hard corner.

While you do feel more of the bumps - the shocks aren't as soft - it's far better than hearing your $20K toy grinding on the tarmac....

Bottom line, I like it better.

As Doc pointed out, if I wanted it softer, I could remove 1 spacer, and leave the other in place - or remove both for a trip. They are in/out in minutes.

I used this set of thru-sockets from Harbor Freight to install them, and, with the Super Coupon, they are $16 right now.

 

[RBS66]

Thanks for your response

 

[Professor]

In another thread, Ron responded to someone who perceived that wheel lift might occur easier. Just like here, it didn't really lift. He just had a feeling that it might. I don't remember the details, but Ron explained a little of the physics involved and showed that with the anti-sway bar, it is actually less likely to have wheel lift. If the Spyder leans less, it's gonna take more force to lift a wheel. Makes sense to me.

 

[Roadster Renovations]

In another thread, Ron responded to someone who perceived that wheel lift might occur easier. Just like here, it didn't really lift. He just had a feeling that it might. I don't remember the details, but Ron explained a little of the physics involved and showed that with the anti-sway bar, it is actually less likely to have wheel lift. If the Spyder leans less, it's gonna take more force to lift a wheel. Makes sense to me.

The way I look at it is this:
The stiffer the springs the less tilt of the bike in a corner. If you took a solid block and tilted it off the edge you would simulate what would occur with no suspension. Going to the other extreme, weak springs will try to push the bike towards the outside of the curve. This will give less wheel lift the weaker the springs are. What I don't like about that happening is that when the bike tilts like that in a curve, centrifugal force tries to push me off. The sway bar will transfer some energy from one wheel to the other in a curve, but to stiffen the springs and tighten the front end will make the bike more like a block. Adjusting the stiffness, you can (at least for me) find a firmness that does not make the bike want to yaw so bad and not have wheel lift. I have used my stiffeners enough (4,000) miles I know what I can do around a corner and since the front end is tighter I can easily take it right to just before wheel lift and be completely safe in doing that. I have Ron's sway bar on my bike and would not go back to the stock one if for no other reason than the stability it provides around 18 wheelers on the freeway.
Another thing about stiffening my springs is that it actually doesn't increase pre-load that much. It is an isolator that isolates a section of the spring. Ron's design on his stiffeners push the entire spring up from the bottom, increasing pre-load with no coil isolation. I am not going to say my product is better or that his is better. I think it is two products for the same area that are completely different. It probably will come down to personal preference.

 

[Professor]

Thanks Doc. That really helped me visualize what is going on. Just thinking about it as a block simplifies it for my simple mind. The preload discussion was also very helpful. For now, I'm just planning on the bar, but depending on how it feels after that, I'll consider the spring stiffeners.

I truly appreciate the lessons. I have a lot to learn about Spyders and I appear to be in the right place. Thanks again!!

 

[Roadster Renovations]

Being left-handed (and in my right mind) haha! I tend to think in concepts that way. It makes it easier for me to see it in examples like that.

 

[Mazo EMS2]

I watched a clip on YouTube of a guy swapping out and installing the BajaRon sway bar. I was a little baffled. It didn't look much different from what he pulled out. So, what is the big difference? Coming from a fairly stiff setup on my previous bike, I'm inclined to crank up the shock stiffness from the get go. Curious what the new sway bar will offer.

Rick

 

[Professor]

Bajaron's bar is orange. Orange is more stable than black. :roflblack:

But seriously folks, I'm guessing it's made of a stiffer metal. Everyone who has one says it is well-worth it. My service manager said it's an excellent investment. There must be a good reason. I'll know for sure later this week.