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2014 Spyder RT Oil Change

To Texas: Thanks for the great pics and instructions! My concern...

Thanks for the great instructions on the oil change. I've done my own on other bikes and vehicles I've had and have no concern about the mechanics -- esp. after reading your details and looking at the pics.

However, I am worried that I'll damage the mirrors and/or panels when I try to take them off. It's got to be fairly simple, but I need some reassurance, I guess. Is there some kind of video that can help with that? I have the 2014 RT Limited ed. and my wife and I love it. Had it about 2 mos. and over 4000 miles on it.

Where do I find out if I have 5.2L or 4.9L? (probably some sticker somewhere). Thanks in advance:D
 
Thanks for the great instructions on the oil change. I've done my own on other bikes and vehicles I've had and have no concern about the mechanics -- esp. after reading your details and looking at the pics.

However, I am worried that I'll damage the mirrors and/or panels when I try to take them off. It's got to be fairly simple, but I need some reassurance, I guess. Is there some kind of video that can help with that? I have the 2014 RT Limited ed. and my wife and I love it. Had it about 2 mos. and over 4000 miles on it.

Where do I find out if I have 5.2L or 4.9L? (probably some sticker somewhere). Thanks in advance:D


If your RT is a paddle shifter, then it holds 5.2. Put in 5, run motor or better yet ride it, then top off as needed.
 
Has anyone found a source other than BRP for the o-rings and gaskets. The filter isn't outrageous but the o-rings are.
 
I plan to change my own oil after the 1st dealer service... so I went looking for a 36mm socket to fit the oil filter housing nut since I did not have one... I found one at a pawn shop.. its a Snap On ... practically brand new .. I paid $6.00 for it at a pawn shop..

OSM
 
The instructions and photos here are great, i printed them out and made a little booklet for further use.

Thank You

Cruzr Joe
 
Oil change directions

:thumbup:This is by far the best and most informative instruction post I have seen here.:thumbup::thumbup:
 
Has anyone found a source other than BRP for the o-rings and gaskets. The filter isn't outrageous but the o-rings are.


Use the O rings several times between changes. Inspect them
each change and if there are no tears or abrasions they are still good. I plan on changing mine the next oil change.
 
O-RINGS

Has anyone found a source other than BRP for the o-rings and gaskets. The filter isn't outrageous but the o-rings are.
..............................JMHO......I think just about any Auto parts store can match up your BRP " O- RINGS " , but as uflyer suggested and I do also if it's not broken or damaged re-use the old one ......But you can get one as a spare now in case you need it later ...................Mike :thumbup:...............................................................PS......You must tel them what you are using this " O " ring for so they can sell you one rated for the temps that may be encountered !!!!!!!!..............................Thanks Paul
 
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I don't know what tools are included with the Spyder, as I don't use those tools as my main tools. I haven't had the chance to get around to opening that bag to see what is in there. However, most people will not generally have a 36mm socket, or the T40 & T45 Torx bits. I had the T40 and T45, but didn't have the 36mm socket. I didn't mind having to go out and purchase this, as it gives me an excuse to buy a tool I didn't have :) I can justify the cost of any tool because not only am I saving a lot of money by doing my own service, but doing my own service helps me to learn more about the RT that I would not have known if I had the dealership perform the work, and it eliminates any fear of taking the plastic off (this is my third time for taking the plastic off).

After nearly stripping the transmission drain plug, I bought a new one. Close, and I mean close, examination showed it to be a 6mm allen. That means one drain is a T45 and the other is a 6mm. Now the replacement is the 6mm. There's no way of telling what the original drain was, I buggered it really bad getting it off. The reason for the differing types of tool is perhaps european logic.

Haven't figured out how to show it, but I've got a '15 RT_S SE6.
 
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I just completed my second oil change on my 14 a few weeks back. It took less than 1 hour including re and re mirror and panels.
This is very much a do it your self project. When putting the new O rings on the metal drain plug be sure to wrap the metal threads in masking tape before rolling the new O ring back on to prevent damage from the sharp threads.
 
YOU ARE CORRECT

After nearly stripping the transmission drain plug, I bought a new one. Close, and I mean close, examination showed it to be a 6mm allen. That means one drain is a T45 and the other is a 6mm. Now the replacement is the 6mm. There's no way of telling what the original drain was, I buggered it really bad getting it off. The reason for the differing types of tool is perhaps european logic.

Haven't figured out how to show it, but I've got a '15 RT_S SE6.
:agree:.....It's absolutely a 6 mm Allen....I checked with a Mirror and flashlite first, because my 08 GS and 11 RSS both had 6 MM Allen's too................Mike :thumbup:
 
..............................JMHO......I think just about any Auto parts store can match up your BRP " O- RINGS " , but as uflyer suggested and I do also if it's not broken or damaged re-use the old one ......But you can get one as a spare now in case you need it later ...................Mike :thumbup:

I have not researched sizes or material yet. Consider though, the green O rings are not typical materials from the parts store. They may have the size, but if they are black it is not the same. I deal with the green O rings often in high performance suspension dampers. These I believe, like the BRP stuff is Flouro or viton material. Better at high heat and won't breakdown. Also consider, different materials could have different durometer ratings or how firm the rubber compound rates. Saying this, is could be possible the oil filter cap would not seat before failing.

I was hoping to use Stat-O-Seals for crush washer replacements, but the dimensions needed seem inadequate to seal properly.

http://www.parker.com/portal/site/P...xtcat=FASTENER+SEAL,+STAT-O-SEAL&vgnextfmt=EN

Regardless of what you buy or where you get them, be careful.

Also, the tip of wrapping with tape is valid. Personally I do not use masking tape, but would use plastic electrical tape or if possible a small section of heavy plastic bag.

If you do plan to shop on your own, I have used these guys with excellent results. You will need to sort out the sizes, material and part numbers on your own.

http://www.theoringstore.com/

PK
 
Excellent tutorial on the oil change. Plan on doing mine tomorrow. One thought I had, I use a lot of green O rings in R134 A/C work. Wonder if they are the same material? Be nice to find a secondary source for parts.
 
Over thinking it

Do yourself a favor. Get what you need from Bajaron. So what if it's two dollars more. Ron is one of the best vendors on this site, and should be supported. His service is excellent.:thumbup: JMHO
 
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Do yourself a favor. Get what you need from Bajaron. So what if it's two dollars more. Ron is one of the best vendors on this site, and should be supported. His service is excellent.:thumbup:

Last I heard, Ron had posted a while back he was trying to source the items. I am not sure if he has them available or not at this time. Hopefully he will mention if the items are available.

PK
 
Well I decided to do my first oil change on my Spyder RT-S tonight. Even though the process is somewhat documented in the Operator's Guide, I find it a bit difficult to follow. That, combined with the fact you will need several parts to complete the job, I thought I would document the procedure the best I could to fill in some of the gaps that BRP left out.

Besides the tools you will need to do the job, you will also need the following parts to perform the oil change:
• 5.3L/5.6qts (SE6), or 4.9L/5.2qts (SM6)
BRP's Recommendation: (XPS 4-STROKE SYNTH. BLEND OIL (SUMMER) (P/N 293 600 121) or a 5W40 semi-synthetic (minimum) or synthetic motorcycle oil meeting the requirements for API service SL, SJ, SH or SG classification
• Oil Filter - BRP #420956743 - $15.99
• Large Oil filter O-Ring - BRP #420850482 - $9.99
• Small Oil filter O-Ring - BRP #420950812 - $9.99
• Small Oil filter O-Ring - BRP #420650927 - $9.99
• Engine Gasket Ring - BRP #420430623 - $1.49
• Engine O-Ring - BRP #420250460 - $5.99
• Engine O-Ring - BRP #420430115 - $5.99
• Copper Washer for Gearbox Drain Plug - BRP #420250640 - $0.99
Total Cost of Parts - $60.42 + Cost of Oil

Step 1:
As in the guide, remove the following RH body panels.
– Side panel
– Top side panel
Once these are removed, the oil filter will be exposed as seen just to the right of the middle of the following picture:
13026154343_2e671f5092_b.jpg


Step 2:
Place an appropriate drain pan under the RT. This drain pan will need to be large enough to capture the oil. You will need to remove two drain plugs on the bottom of the RT to allow the oil to flow into the pan. Most of the oil will come out of the engine (I'm guessing about 80%), so if your drain pan isn't large enough to capture all of the oil, then you can do one plug; discard the oil; then do the other plug. Discard both crush washers.

The gearbox drain plug is located just under the oil dipstick. This requires a T40 tool to remove. The engine drain plug one is located on the left side of the RT and requires a T45 to remove. You can view the Operator's Guide for a drawing that depicts their exact locations, however, it lists the descriptions of each of these drain plugs incorrectly (it has them reversed). So please make special note of this. While there is no magnet on the engine drain plug, notice the amount of metal deposits that collected on the magnet of the gearbox drain plug in just over the first 1,000 miles:
13026153133_edce51544d_b.jpg


Step 3:
Remove the dipstick.

Step 4:
You will need a 36mm socket to remove the oil filter cover:
13026152063_dcee2794fb_b.jpg


Using the 36mm socket and a socket driver, unscrew oil filter cover:
13026381274_8e58866b6b_b.jpg


You can now lift the cover off, but hold a paper towel under the cover as you lift it off to catch the dirty oil as it will drip off:
13026379984_af694cf090_b.jpg


Notice there is more to the cap than just a cap, so keep this in mind as you raise the cap. Also notice the o-rings that need to be replaced:
13025992655_6b2b9f93a8_b.jpg


Step 5:
Check and clean the oil inlet and outlet orifices in crankcase for dirt and contaminants.

Step 6:
Replace the o-rings with new ones on the filter cover.

Step 7:
Install the new filter:
13025991485_8b5ce6fe45_b.jpg


Step 8:
After cleaning the filter cover and installing new o-rings, install the filter cover.

Step 9:
Using new sealing washers and o-rings, install both engine and gearbox drain plugs.
(From the Operator's Guide - Torque engine drain plugs 25 N•m to 30N•m. Torque gearbox drain plug 18 N•m to 20N•m)

Step 10:
For SE6 Model - Pour 5.3 L of the recommended oil into the engine.
For SM6 Model - Pour 4.9 L of the recommended oil into the engine.

Step 11:
Start engine and let idle for two minutes. Check for leaks at the Engine oil filter, as well as the engine and gearbox drain plugs.

Step 12:
Once the oil temperature reaches 176°F/80°C, stop the engine, check the oil level, then add missing quantity of oil.

Step 13:
Install all removed body panels.
You can get a 36mm socket at Northern Tools for $14. With the amount of oil the 1330 holds, I am going to start out with an oil pig and vacuum out the majority of oil before removing the plugs. I did this with my Harley to get most of the oil out of the tank. It really cut down on possible oil messes.
 
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