Texas
New member
Well I decided to do my first oil change on my Spyder RT-S tonight. Even though the process is somewhat documented in the Operator's Guide, I find it a bit difficult to follow. That, combined with the fact you will need several parts to complete the job, I thought I would document the procedure the best I could to fill in some of the gaps that BRP left out.
Besides the tools you will need to do the job, you will also need the following parts to perform the oil change:
• 5.3L/5.6qts (SE6), or 4.9L/5.2qts (SM6)
BRP's Recommendation: (XPS 4-STROKE SYNTH. BLEND OIL (SUMMER) (P/N 293 600 121) or a 5W40 semi-synthetic (minimum) or synthetic motorcycle oil meeting the requirements for API service SL, SJ, SH or SG classification
• Oil Filter - BRP #420956743 - $15.99
• Large Oil filter O-Ring - BRP #420850482 - $9.99
• Small Oil filter O-Ring - BRP #420950812 - $9.99
• Small Oil filter O-Ring - BRP #420650927 - $9.99
• Engine Gasket Ring - BRP #420430623 - $1.49
• Engine O-Ring - BRP #420250460 - $5.99
• Engine O-Ring - BRP #420430115 - $5.99
• Copper Washer for Gearbox Drain Plug - BRP #420250640 - $0.99
Total Cost of Parts - $60.42 + Cost of Oil
Step 1:
As in the guide, remove the following RH body panels.
– Side panel
– Top side panel
Once these are removed, the oil filter will be exposed as seen just to the right of the middle of the following picture:
Step 2:
Place an appropriate drain pan under the RT. This drain pan will need to be large enough to capture the oil. You will need to remove two drain plugs on the bottom of the RT to allow the oil to flow into the pan. Most of the oil will come out of the engine (I'm guessing about 80%), so if your drain pan isn't large enough to capture all of the oil, then you can do one plug; discard the oil; then do the other plug. Discard both crush washers.
The gearbox drain plug is located just under the oil dipstick. This requires a T40 tool to remove. The engine drain plug one is located on the left side of the RT and requires a T45 to remove. You can view the Operator's Guide for a drawing that depicts their exact locations, however, it lists the descriptions of each of these drain plugs incorrectly (it has them reversed). So please make special note of this. While there is no magnet on the engine drain plug, notice the amount of metal deposits that collected on the magnet of the gearbox drain plug in just over the first 1,000 miles:
Step 3:
Remove the dipstick.
Step 4:
You will need a 36mm socket to remove the oil filter cover:
Using the 36mm socket and a socket driver, unscrew oil filter cover:
You can now lift the cover off, but hold a paper towel under the cover as you lift it off to catch the dirty oil as it will drip off:
Notice there is more to the cap than just a cap, so keep this in mind as you raise the cap. Also notice the o-rings that need to be replaced:
Step 5:
Check and clean the oil inlet and outlet orifices in crankcase for dirt and contaminants.
Step 6:
Replace the o-rings with new ones on the filter cover.
Step 7:
Install the new filter:
Step 8:
After cleaning the filter cover and installing new o-rings, install the filter cover.
Step 9:
Using new sealing washers and o-rings, install both engine and gearbox drain plugs.
(From the Operator's Guide - Torque engine drain plugs 25 N•m to 30N•m. Torque gearbox drain plug 18 N•m to 20N•m)
Step 10:
For SE6 Model - Pour 5.3 L of the recommended oil into the engine.
For SM6 Model - Pour 4.9 L of the recommended oil into the engine.
Step 11:
Start engine and let idle for two minutes. Check for leaks at the Engine oil filter, as well as the engine and gearbox drain plugs.
Step 12:
Once the oil temperature reaches 176°F/80°C, stop the engine, check the oil level, then add missing quantity of oil.
Step 13:
Install all removed body panels.
Besides the tools you will need to do the job, you will also need the following parts to perform the oil change:
• 5.3L/5.6qts (SE6), or 4.9L/5.2qts (SM6)
BRP's Recommendation: (XPS 4-STROKE SYNTH. BLEND OIL (SUMMER) (P/N 293 600 121) or a 5W40 semi-synthetic (minimum) or synthetic motorcycle oil meeting the requirements for API service SL, SJ, SH or SG classification
• Oil Filter - BRP #420956743 - $15.99
• Large Oil filter O-Ring - BRP #420850482 - $9.99
• Small Oil filter O-Ring - BRP #420950812 - $9.99
• Small Oil filter O-Ring - BRP #420650927 - $9.99
• Engine Gasket Ring - BRP #420430623 - $1.49
• Engine O-Ring - BRP #420250460 - $5.99
• Engine O-Ring - BRP #420430115 - $5.99
• Copper Washer for Gearbox Drain Plug - BRP #420250640 - $0.99
Total Cost of Parts - $60.42 + Cost of Oil
Step 1:
As in the guide, remove the following RH body panels.
– Side panel
– Top side panel
Once these are removed, the oil filter will be exposed as seen just to the right of the middle of the following picture:
Step 2:
Place an appropriate drain pan under the RT. This drain pan will need to be large enough to capture the oil. You will need to remove two drain plugs on the bottom of the RT to allow the oil to flow into the pan. Most of the oil will come out of the engine (I'm guessing about 80%), so if your drain pan isn't large enough to capture all of the oil, then you can do one plug; discard the oil; then do the other plug. Discard both crush washers.
The gearbox drain plug is located just under the oil dipstick. This requires a T40 tool to remove. The engine drain plug one is located on the left side of the RT and requires a T45 to remove. You can view the Operator's Guide for a drawing that depicts their exact locations, however, it lists the descriptions of each of these drain plugs incorrectly (it has them reversed). So please make special note of this. While there is no magnet on the engine drain plug, notice the amount of metal deposits that collected on the magnet of the gearbox drain plug in just over the first 1,000 miles:
Step 3:
Remove the dipstick.
Step 4:
You will need a 36mm socket to remove the oil filter cover:
Using the 36mm socket and a socket driver, unscrew oil filter cover:
You can now lift the cover off, but hold a paper towel under the cover as you lift it off to catch the dirty oil as it will drip off:
Notice there is more to the cap than just a cap, so keep this in mind as you raise the cap. Also notice the o-rings that need to be replaced:
Step 5:
Check and clean the oil inlet and outlet orifices in crankcase for dirt and contaminants.
Step 6:
Replace the o-rings with new ones on the filter cover.
Step 7:
Install the new filter:
Step 8:
After cleaning the filter cover and installing new o-rings, install the filter cover.
Step 9:
Using new sealing washers and o-rings, install both engine and gearbox drain plugs.
(From the Operator's Guide - Torque engine drain plugs 25 N•m to 30N•m. Torque gearbox drain plug 18 N•m to 20N•m)
Step 10:
For SE6 Model - Pour 5.3 L of the recommended oil into the engine.
For SM6 Model - Pour 4.9 L of the recommended oil into the engine.
Step 11:
Start engine and let idle for two minutes. Check for leaks at the Engine oil filter, as well as the engine and gearbox drain plugs.
Step 12:
Once the oil temperature reaches 176°F/80°C, stop the engine, check the oil level, then add missing quantity of oil.
Step 13:
Install all removed body panels.
ray:.
I can justify the cost of any tool because not only am I saving a lot of money by doing my own service, but doing my own service helps me to learn more about the RT that I would not have known if I had the dealership perform the work, and it eliminates any fear of taking the plastic off (this is my third time for taking the plastic off).
