please post where you got the stuff from and how much?
cyclemax is what i need right? 10w40? thank you:thumbup:
my spyder is ready for oil change anyway and i am all for better performance. i wonder if they make oil filter for spyder
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Royal Purple Oil- 1000 Mile Review
- Thread starter Dudley
- Start date
please post where you got the stuff from and how much?
cyclemax is what i need right? 10w40? thank you:thumbup:
my spyder is ready for oil change anyway and i am all for better performance. i wonder if they make oil filter for spyder
Firefly
Active member
Just google Royal Purple Oil
i been to their website but didnt he say he paid less than what they normally go at? i am all for saving money too
Dudley
New member
i been to their website but didnt he say he paid less than what they normally go at? i am all for saving money too
My cost was $13.89/qt plus tax. Was not charged for ordering, etc. It was cheaper than BRP oil at my dealers, but I wasn't looking at the price that much.
Dudley
New member
For those who have not seen my review, and may be interested, I am just bringing it back to the front. Nothing has changed since I wrote it except the miles. I now have over 2000 miles on the oil change and have not used any measureable amount of oil. I am still very pleaased with the RP oil and will continue to use it.
Don in E Texas
New member
Ordered a case (RP) from my local O'Riely auto parts store one morning - arrived later the same day. Cost: $11.99 a qt. (plus tax).. have not installed as yet, but plan to at 3,000 mile point.
don
don
BajaRon
Well-known member
Oil debates seem to have more lives than a dozen cats!
There is no question that if you use an oil rated at or above the manufactures specs and change it at the recommended intervals there are no warranty issues.
It is amazing that some dealers/manufacturers are still telling owners their warranty will be void if they don't use the manufacturer's oil or get it serviced at an authorized dealer. That is just bunk.
Besides, there isn't any manufacturer that makes their own oil anyway. They buy a standard, over the counter product from Castrol, Pennzoil, Mobile, etc., that you can get at Wal-Mart, slap their label on the can and jack the price up. The customer FEELS like they are doing right by their vehicle and the dealer is happy with the money in their pocket.
The difference between 5w and 10w is not all that significant (as others have mentioned). And the standard is not consistent throughout the industry either. Some 5w oils will perform like another's 10w oil at service temperatures (and visa versa).
However, the difference between blended (Dino + Synthetic) and full synthetic IS Significant. This is where I would put my money. Why mix some good stuff in with the (well, not bad, but less good).
Sure blended is better (depending on the ratio). But for a little more money you can have 100% good stuff. Oil in a Spyder has to deal with everything from cylinder temperature and pressure to getting crushed in the gears and sheared in the clutch.
Every independent test done shows a significant improvement in lubrication with a full synthetic oil over straight dino or even blended oils. Some synthetics will do better than others but the real jump in performance is with any of the full synthetic oils.
Someone else mentioned that the thinner oil stays on metal parts better. This is not really true. Thinner oil tends to run off more quickly than thicker oil. This is not as much of an issue with today's oils as it was in the past. Thinner oil will flow more quickly on start-up than thicker oils and will reach critical parts more quickly.
They say 85% of engine wear occurs at start-up. But even this issue has largely been eliminated with improved oil technology and innovations like valved filters that keep oil from draining out of pressure gallies.
Another advantage of 100% synthetic oil is that it stays on your parts longer than dino oils.
Go for the full synthetic 5w-40 or 10w-40 (either is fine) and your Spyder will not bite you later on. :spyder:
There is no question that if you use an oil rated at or above the manufactures specs and change it at the recommended intervals there are no warranty issues.
It is amazing that some dealers/manufacturers are still telling owners their warranty will be void if they don't use the manufacturer's oil or get it serviced at an authorized dealer. That is just bunk.
Besides, there isn't any manufacturer that makes their own oil anyway. They buy a standard, over the counter product from Castrol, Pennzoil, Mobile, etc., that you can get at Wal-Mart, slap their label on the can and jack the price up. The customer FEELS like they are doing right by their vehicle and the dealer is happy with the money in their pocket.
The difference between 5w and 10w is not all that significant (as others have mentioned). And the standard is not consistent throughout the industry either. Some 5w oils will perform like another's 10w oil at service temperatures (and visa versa).
However, the difference between blended (Dino + Synthetic) and full synthetic IS Significant. This is where I would put my money. Why mix some good stuff in with the (well, not bad, but less good).
Sure blended is better (depending on the ratio). But for a little more money you can have 100% good stuff. Oil in a Spyder has to deal with everything from cylinder temperature and pressure to getting crushed in the gears and sheared in the clutch.
Every independent test done shows a significant improvement in lubrication with a full synthetic oil over straight dino or even blended oils. Some synthetics will do better than others but the real jump in performance is with any of the full synthetic oils.
Someone else mentioned that the thinner oil stays on metal parts better. This is not really true. Thinner oil tends to run off more quickly than thicker oil. This is not as much of an issue with today's oils as it was in the past. Thinner oil will flow more quickly on start-up than thicker oils and will reach critical parts more quickly.
They say 85% of engine wear occurs at start-up. But even this issue has largely been eliminated with improved oil technology and innovations like valved filters that keep oil from draining out of pressure gallies.
Another advantage of 100% synthetic oil is that it stays on your parts longer than dino oils.
Go for the full synthetic 5w-40 or 10w-40 (either is fine) and your Spyder will not bite you later on. :spyder:
Dudley
New member
I waited until I had over 3000 miles to change over. I actually had 5000 miles when I changed. Old habits are hard to break! I have changed my motorcycle oils at 5000 miles for the last 40 years, so the Spyder won't be treated any different. So I guess that's up to you. I would wait until 3000 miles and get my money's worth out of the first service.
mike3069
New member
Just saw some at Wal-Mart the other day. It was NOT with the auto oils but in the ATV/lawn mower area.
thanks everyone
i guess i forgot to post that i got some from napa auto parts 1200 miles ago and it's working beautifully.
spyder shifts better, runs cooler far less oil from airbox and less exhaust fume. i think less exhaust fume is due to less oil dripping from airbox, therefore less oil burning on engine block. i don't know but i do not get a headache anymore after a long ryde due to fume.
with that said, i went to a spyder demo ryde today and my lack of confidence on my brakes was proved correct. i told my service writer few times that my brakes feels like its bottoming out but he insisted i just have to "slam" on it. the demo spyder i drove had so much more braking power it really stopped on a dime from 50 mph without much effort where my spyder takes a whole lot of "slamming" to a point i am bring spyder to my the right when i have to stop quickly. demo spyder shifted better and saddest part is, even with hindle,hi-flow air filter, and baffles off of airbox, demo spyder had just as good acceleration if not better than mine. my shifting gotten much better after i put royal purple in my spyder but it is still worse than the demo spyder.
i did not test drive a spyder before i bought it. when i saw it, it was something i just to have so whatever fault my spyder had i did not know any better but it was just how it was or supposed be, just like that ryder who had no power steering for 12000 miles.
well back to the shop on monday for my spyder
i guess i forgot to post that i got some from napa auto parts 1200 miles ago and it's working beautifully.
spyder shifts better, runs cooler far less oil from airbox and less exhaust fume. i think less exhaust fume is due to less oil dripping from airbox, therefore less oil burning on engine block. i don't know but i do not get a headache anymore after a long ryde due to fume.
with that said, i went to a spyder demo ryde today and my lack of confidence on my brakes was proved correct. i told my service writer few times that my brakes feels like its bottoming out but he insisted i just have to "slam" on it. the demo spyder i drove had so much more braking power it really stopped on a dime from 50 mph without much effort where my spyder takes a whole lot of "slamming" to a point i am bring spyder to my the right when i have to stop quickly. demo spyder shifted better and saddest part is, even with hindle,hi-flow air filter, and baffles off of airbox, demo spyder had just as good acceleration if not better than mine. my shifting gotten much better after i put royal purple in my spyder but it is still worse than the demo spyder.
i did not test drive a spyder before i bought it. when i saw it, it was something i just to have so whatever fault my spyder had i did not know any better but it was just how it was or supposed be, just like that ryder who had no power steering for 12000 miles.
well back to the shop on monday for my spyder
bnlrobinson
New member
I've been having shifting problems,even after the spring change, software update and sensor change. So at my 4,000 mile oil change I switched to Royal Purple. I only have about 150 miles on it since the change but so far it has gotten worse than it was before :yikes:. I'm hoping that after a liitle more break in period it will get better. If not it will be back to the dealer again. I've read quite a bit about Royal Purple and had high hopes for this helping to fix the spyder. Oh well I'll keep pulling over shutting it down and waiting my two minutes before I'm on my way again.
BajaRon
Well-known member
Does not sound like a problem that oil is going to fix... another trip to the dealer may be in your future.
Have you called and talked to them about it? At least you would be on the books as still having an issue after a "Fix" was attempted by the dealer.
bnlrobinson
New member
I've had it back one time since the recall service and they can't get the bike to mess up when they ride it (they had it 3 weeks). I've been trying to document when it happens and give them the report when I take it back. I was actually hoping it would get worse. Somedays it might lock up 4 times and other times it might go 2 weeks without a problem. I have noticed that the display light for the speedometer and rpms stays lit when I turn the key off and I don't get the alarm telling me the brake isn't set. I got a 5 year warranty so hopefully it will get fixed sooner than later:dontknow:. But I must say I do love my spyder.
bnlrobinson
New member
SE5
Thanks for the help Lamonster, I'm going to call the dealer right now.
Thanks for the help Lamonster, I'm going to call the dealer right now.
bnlrobinson
New member
SE5
Just go off the phone with the dealer and they had alrady run the ground wire from the coil, I can pick my bike up:yes::yes::yes:
Just go off the phone with the dealer and they had alrady run the ground wire from the coil, I can pick my bike up:yes::yes::yes:
????
Are you supposed to get an alarm when the brake is not set? I never have but everything else works just fine!!!
Only if you have an SE5.:f_spider:
Silverwolf
New member
When is a good time to switch over to Royal Purple? I have about 1700mi on my spyder. Normally I don't switch oils for like my car until I have at least 3000 miles on it. Should I wait?
:chat:
:chat:
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