Clutch slip

[blambert]

Folks,

I have 24k miles on my 2011 RS spyder. When the bike is cold the clutch grips well as I bang through the semiautomatic tranny. However when the bike heats up I get clutch slip in second and third gear. I have plenty of oil - have checked multiple times and using Amsoil full synthetic, 5-40. I had the powerr ride Chandler AZ check out the clutch but when it is cold it does not slip - they told me they can get the tire to break loose ( spin )in 2nd gear. I'm ready to spend the $1k for a new clutch pack - any ideas.

Regards,

Bob L.

 

[jerpinoy]

Where you using your 5th gear on low rpm back then? Possibly cost the slippage.

 

[NancysToy]

Folks,

I have 24k miles on my 2011 RS spyder. When the bike is cold the clutch grips well as I bang through the semiautomatic tranny. However when the bike heats up I get clutch slip in second and third gear. I have plenty of oil - have checked multiple times and using Amsoil full synthetic, 5-40. I had the powerr ride Chandler AZ check out the clutch but when it is cold it does not slip - they told me they can get the tire to break loose ( spin )in 2nd gear. I'm ready to spend the $1k for a new clutch pack - any ideas.

Regards,

Bob L.

First, if you have an SM, have the clutch assist solenoid tested. If it isn't fully releasing it can cause clutch slip or clutch damage. I'd install the new clutch pack. It has an extra plate and a longer oil jet. Different packs for the SE and SM, so be sure to get the right one. If you have an SE, don't shift below 4,500 to avoid clutch damage and keep rpm above 3,500 under load as much as possible. If you have an SM, I'd recommend rebuilding the slave cylinder at the same time you do the clutch.

 

[blambert]

I have the se model. Back in the early days I was not aware of the 4k rule shifting requirement. I remember shifting a lot especially going through the mountains at 3.5k or less. Now I shift at 6k only. But probably the damage is done. Just don't know why it only happens when the bike is warmed up.

 

[MikeinGA]

Folks,

I have 24k miles on my 2011 RS spyder. When the bike is cold the clutch grips well as I bang through the semiautomatic tranny. However when the bike heats up I get clutch slip in second and third gear. I have plenty of oil - have checked multiple times and using Amsoil full synthetic, 5-40. I had the powerr ride Chandler AZ check out the clutch but when it is cold it does not slip - they told me they can get the tire to break loose ( spin )in 2nd gear. I'm ready to spend the $1k for a new clutch pack - any ideas.

Regards,

Bob L.

Amsoil dose not make a 5W-40 in a motorcycle oil. If you have a 5W-40 from Amsoil it's the wrong type of oil and it can make your clutch.
That's IMHO.

Mike

 

[BajaRon]

First, if you have an SM, have the clutch assist solenoid tested. If it isn't fully releasing it can cause clutch slip or clutch damage. I'd install the new clutch pack. It has an extra plate and a longer oil jet. Different packs for the SE and SM, so be sure to get the right one. If you have an SE, don't shift below 4,500 to avoid clutch damage and keep rpm above 3,500 under load as much as possible. If you have an SM, I'd recommend rebuilding the slave cylinder at the same time you do the clutch.

He says he has the 'semi-automatic'. But good advise all around.

Amsoil dose not make a 5W-40 in a motorcycle oil. If you have a 5W-40 from Amsoil it's the wrong type of oil and it can make your clutch.
That's IMHO.
Mike

True! If the Amsoil bottle says 5w-40 it is the wrong oil for your Spyder. This is the oil that you want. It comes in a few different label types (depending on date of manufacture) but they will all have the same MCF-10w-40 information listed as JASO MA2 rated.

The wrong oil can give you clutch slippage in a hurry. If caught early, just changing the oil to the correct product will usually fix the problem. If let go too long you'll need to change the clutch to fix it. Getting the newer clutch pack parts will help shifting and longevity going forward.

 

[NancysToy]

When a clutch first starts to slip, it will often be OK when cold, but slip when the parts expand and the oil warms up and thins out a bit.

I agree that you probably have compounded your problem by not using a motorcycle oil. The additive packages are different for the automotive oils, and can cause problems in wet-clutch motorcycles (or motorcycles with bronze bushings).

 

[Bob Denman]

:agree: Good Luck in getting things set right! :thumbup:
(I also shifted, "low and slow", until the message got through...)