Installed my Pitbull Shock Relocators

[Riker]

Little history... 2011 RS... upgrades in order... Original Evouline Swaybar , then fox shocks, now these. I did feel a little more comfort/stability in the turns, and improvement at highway speed/wind buffeting. But correct me if I am wrong, and maybe its just the way my setup was, but the ride seemed ALOT smoother? Was not expecting that. The bumps at speed seemed to be nominal, where as before I would feel a little da da da, hehe

 

[IGETAROUND]

Nice, very nice looking rYde:clap::yes::bowdown:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

THE REASON IS

See below

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

THE REASON IS

The re-locators mimic what the engineers at BRP did to the 2013 and 14 frames. They discovered that by changing the angle of the front shocks ( more up-right ) ....the shocks worked better.........ie. you can use less pre-load but get the same performance as before..........LESS pre-load = smoother less harsh ride ................try lowering your PRE-LOAD and see how it feels ......... I make them also but mine increase the angle even more ...........Mike :thumbup:

 

[spacetiger]

Little history... 2011 RS... upgrades in order... Original Evouline Swaybar , then fox shocks, now these. I did feel a little more comfort/stability in the turns, and improvement at highway speed/wind buffeting. But correct me if I am wrong, and maybe its just the way my setup was, but the ride seemed ALOT smoother? Was not expecting that. The bumps at speed seemed to be nominal, where as before I would feel a little da da da, hehe

Riker,

Take a look at the rubber ball on the shock shaft in the pic; you will note it is at the top. That is a sign the shock was fully compressed at some point and the shock body pushed it all the way to the top. The rubber bumper is made to be able to go up or down and sometimes they are tight enough to stay where they were last pushed to.

I think you are noticing a smoother ride with stiffer effective springs because you are no longer bottoming out. The easiest way to confirm this is to push the rubber ball down the shaft till it is resting on the shock body. After you go riding, check to see how far up the shaft the ball is. You should choose a preload setting that after you ride you find the bumper away from the top by no more than 0.5" to 0.75". If you do this, should have enough margin to ensure you never bottom out. The bike should be really smooth because you are on springs all the time.

Once you feel comfortable managing the front rubber bumpers, do the same thing to the rear shock. There is a rubber bumper there too, so you want to make sure it is not jammed up at the top indicating you are bottoming out in back.

Jerry

 

[Bob Denman]

Glad to hear that you're diggin' them! :clap: :2thumbs:

 

[Riker]

Hi Jerry, and thanks for the advice.

I did as you suggested and brought the rubber balls down to the bottom of the shaft. I went out on my normal run and when I came back, both sides were back at the top. Excuse me for my ignorance on understanding the terminology about shocks ( preload ), but let me explain in my way, lol I see the spring, and assume based on this I will want to tighten it on both sides a few turns at a time and test ( is this increasing preload? ), till the rubber balls don't bottom out, correct? Also, there was some pot holes that I hit, and I tend to take turns aggressively.Thanks in advance for help ...

Riker,

Take a look at the rubber ball on the shock shaft in the pic; you will note it is at the top. That is a sign the shock was fully compressed at some point and the shock body pushed it all the way to the top. The rubber bumper is made to be able to go up or down and sometimes they are tight enough to stay where they were last pushed to.

I think you are noticing a smoother ride with stiffer effective springs because you are no longer bottoming out. The easiest way to confirm this is to push the rubber ball down the shaft till it is resting on the shock body. After you go riding, check to see how far up the shaft the ball is. You should choose a preload setting that after you ride you find the bumper away from the top by no more than 0.5" to 0.75". If you do this, should have enough margin to ensure you never bottom out. The bike should be really smooth because you are on springs all the time.

Once you feel comfortable managing the front rubber bumpers, do the same thing to the rear shock. There is a rubber bumper there too, so you want to make sure it is not jammed up at the top indicating you are bottoming out in back.

Jerry