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Small cooling effort
- Thread starter Magdave
- Start date
Bob Denman
New member
Do you need to leave the adjustable deflectors open, or do they still function normally?
(John did away with any side deflectors, when he added the Vertika pieces...)
Try a boatyard for scoops... They might offer you up some more choices.
But that's surely a good start! :thumbup:
(John did away with any side deflectors, when he added the Vertika pieces...)
Try a boatyard for scoops... They might offer you up some more choices.
But that's surely a good start! :thumbup:
Magdave
New member
Those are boat scoops. It will still work with the vents closed the BRP adjustables do not go all the way to the fender like the non adjustable ones. There is 3/4-1" gap on the bottom edge. Even without the scoops there would be increased airflow under them over the grille. All I am trying here is to force a little more down inside. :thumbup:The key here is find just the right sized scoop that allows the deflectors to open all the way and to be reversible(removable). Those are my parameters.
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Bob Denman
New member
"Cool"... 
:thumbup:
:thumbup:
Magdave
New member
I will find out on my next ride. I know it is 4 bars @55-60 deg If I ever see 3bars (I doubt it) it will be a great success. But a little more air pushed into the bay can't hurt regardless."Cool"...
Magdave
New member
But not that fit my parameters unfortunately. It is a poor man's version of what you did John and I have been planning it for a while. Had to figure out how to get the deflectors past the wife. I have a ...er... limited farkling permission after spending $600 on riding gear for Christmas.:yikes: I am hoping she does not notice the change in deflectors or I will be joining Snoopy in his house. She will notice next summer when she gets the addition breeze these provide for the passenger and will be a little more malleable about it she is doing the hot flash thing.
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Bob Denman
New member
"Limited"?? :shocked:
What I wouldn't give, for that much discretionary spending capability... nojoke
What I wouldn't give, for that much discretionary spending capability... nojoke
Magdave
New member
Well Bob actually Limited = 0 unless the UPS guy gets here early enough and she is sleeping :yes: I am sure you know the reason all my farkles must be removable too planning for 2015 ....... I refuse to be a guinea pig again.
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Bob Denman
New member
Guess what? Misery loves company!
Welcome to the Brotherhood!! :thumbup:
Welcome to the Brotherhood!! :thumbup:
Chupaca
New member
Cool..!!
will wait and see how it works. If you could hook up a seperate temp gauge it would help. You may well drop the heat but not enough to drop a bar. You never know at what point you are on the bar..high, low or mid range. If it does drop you will know a bigger scoop will help even more..good luck..!! :thumbup:
will wait and see how it works. If you could hook up a seperate temp gauge it would help. You may well drop the heat but not enough to drop a bar. You never know at what point you are on the bar..high, low or mid range. If it does drop you will know a bigger scoop will help even more..good luck..!! :thumbup:
Magdave
New member
It probably wont affect the gauge much since the engine will not cool much but all the other rubber and plastic might stay a little cooler. That is a fear I have is premature failure of those due to high heat. Ideally I would like BRP do something with those grille like slant then so more air goes into it instead of over it.
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NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
Pushing more air through in that location will not lower the coolant temperature. You should not see it on the gauge. It is also unlikely to cool the engine compartment. You are trying to bring in air through a portion of an exhaust vent (hot air rises). Thie incoming air will either block the air flow unless you provide an alternate exit, or it will just short circuit, going in your scoop and being drawn out the rear of the same vent by the passing air flow from the open deflector. Experimentation is fine, and do so if it makes you feel better, but for best results such things should be engineered...or at least thoroughly thought out.
From my viewpoint the following types of solutions would be needed for the three types of heat problems...
Hot Right Foot: Deflect the radiator exhaust air, reroute the discharge air, and/or reverse the fan at slow speeds. Moving the radiator forward like the 2014's is good, but not practical for the older models.
Engine Overheating: Increase radiator capacity or water pump flow rate. A lower temperature thermostat would not allow the machine to meet EPA emissions requirements.
Excess Heat In Engine Compartment: Increase air flow through compartment...needs more effective vents up high (perhaps even via an insulated tunnel under the fuel tank/seat that discharges in the rear). The air flow should be from to back and bottom to top for best results. Forcing air in at the top and trying to get it to exit down low is counterproductive. Power ventilation might be effective. Relocate the exhaust pipes or insulate them heavily. Insulate the fuel tank. Insulate or relocate the emissions canister. Some heat is inevitable...control it by adding more effective insulation to the body panels, using more sub-panels, and closing gaps where heat escapes in undesireable places.
JMHO, but these things make the most sense to me.
cuznjohn
New member
snoopy
http://www.vertikatrykescanada.com/boutique.shtml?cat=SPYDER RT-RTS parts not painted second one down on the page
http://www.vertikatrykescanada.com/boutique.shtml?cat=SPYDER RT-RTS parts not painted second one down on the page
Magdave
New member
Seriously Scotty I know what they are for and am not blocking them only trying to push a little more air under the skin at speed and I do not believe it to be counter productive. I am surprised you did not tell cuzinjohn he wasted his money on the Vertika parts that actually do restrict those vents. In effect I expect little gain engine wise since that depends on coolant flow. Only help there might be an electric water pump but since we have 650W stators that will never work. I have already done most of what you mentioned in Excess Heat In Engine Compartment and in effect this is "power ventilation" at highway speeds I do expect a little (hopefully) cooler gas tank. Air flows from front to back on motorcycles not rear to front. I have thoroughly thought this out and it is one of the few viable ways to pump more air under the skin. Tell you what I will tie some strings behind the vents to test your theory of going in my scoop and being drawn out the rear of the same vent by the passing air flow from the open deflector and I bet they do not stand up. Thanks for your thoughts though. :thumbup:
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NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
I didn't intend to upset you with my comments. Sorry if you took it that way. I only wanted to point out that the vents you are working with are not connected to the airflow through the radiator, so should not affect the engine temperature. The venturi action drawing air out of the vents when the deflectors are straight back would be inhibited by the scoops...even if just from disrupting the air and blocking part of the vent. I wish you well in your experiment, but it does not make good aerodynamic or engineering sense, I'm afraid.
I don't believe the Veritikas scoops are very effective either, because they have no discharge point for the air they ram in, and they push air in at the top instead of the bottom. They would push in far more air than your small ones however, and can't short circuit because they cover the entire vent space. If there was a good discharge vent toward the rear, I expect they would actually be pretty effective. Just thinking about yours here, and I wonder about scooping in air on the right side (with any exposed exit vent space on that side blocked to prevent short circuits, and letting the left side serve as the exit, without an inlet scoop. The cross flow would be inhibited by the tank and other components, but it might still set up the circulation you are looking for.
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