Tango
Well-known member
I have a 2014 Escape, and I am looking to tow with it also. Tough to figure what to buy isn't it? :banghead: Tom :trike:
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Enclosed trailer?
- Thread starter lionking
- Start date
I have a 2014 Escape, and I am looking to tow with it also. Tough to figure what to buy isn't it? :banghead: Tom :trike:
draboo
New member
We have a 8.5X16 enclosed that we converted into a poormans toy hauler. We towed it from WA to MI and back 2 years ago with the RT and a Sportster inside. I wired it with two overhead lights and three outlets.We also had a cheap sliding window installed in it. When we came to a campground, out came the vehicles,plug in the xtension cord, blew up the bed, and spent the night. Anyone attempting to do this and using it to sleep in take note from my personal experience: INSULATE THE WHOLE DAMN THING WITH A GOOD QUALITY INSULATION AND BUY THE LARGEST PORTABLE FLOOR AIR CONDITION UNIT YOU CAN FIND/AFFORD!! I CANNOT STRESS THE IMPORTANCE OF THIS ENOUGH!
It was so hot in Boise, you couldnt touch the inside of the roof. (before insulating) The AC unit did absolutley no good against the heat.
As far as the ramp goes, I found with the RT that if you go very slow up or down the ramp, you will not bottom out. Or, if you want to make sure, just crank up the tongue with the tongue jack. I never cranked it up, but I know it will aleviate bottoming out. Not sure if airing up the rear shock would help or not. Never tried it.
We have since graduated to a '92 25 foot Chev chassis motorhome, which I have dubbed "IRV, the FLOATING BRICK" and we tow our gw/hack rig behind on a flatbed trailer. We have found vacationing Nirvana with IRV!
It was so hot in Boise, you couldnt touch the inside of the roof. (before insulating) The AC unit did absolutley no good against the heat.
As far as the ramp goes, I found with the RT that if you go very slow up or down the ramp, you will not bottom out. Or, if you want to make sure, just crank up the tongue with the tongue jack. I never cranked it up, but I know it will aleviate bottoming out. Not sure if airing up the rear shock would help or not. Never tried it.
We have since graduated to a '92 25 foot Chev chassis motorhome, which I have dubbed "IRV, the FLOATING BRICK" and we tow our gw/hack rig behind on a flatbed trailer. We have found vacationing Nirvana with IRV!
Dragonrider
New member
I have a 7.5x12x7 single axel with brakes - also converted to a cheap toyhauler - hauled the RTS to Yellowstone and back, and numerous other trips. I have a storage box & shelves in the front, and it is fully insulated - all custom ordered, with lights, and two rows of EZ Track. It's a snap to load, strap in, and go. Total loaded weight is 2,780# - camping gear included. The extra height makes using the trailer for habitation possible, and adds length to the ramp, making loading a non-issue. Mine is NOT a "V" nose, and has a 40sf frontal area. I pull it with a F150, and you don't feel it at all. You can pull it with your Ford, provided you have the bigger motor...
I now use the trailer for my ATVs, camping, and a nice storage locker....
I now use the trailer for my ATVs, camping, and a nice storage locker....
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MrLooney
Senior MOMENTS Member
trailer length
If you can afford the longer and wider trailer, you will be more pleased with it over all. It will also be more versatile for many other uses besides your Spyder's Home.
Remember the longer the trailer the easier it is to tow and more importantly the easier it is to back up!!
Short trailers Jack-Knife easily.
If you can afford the longer and wider trailer, you will be more pleased with it over all. It will also be more versatile for many other uses besides your Spyder's Home.
Remember the longer the trailer the easier it is to tow and more importantly the easier it is to back up!!
Short trailers Jack-Knife easily.
bruiser
New member
Frank, you do need to make sure the door is 7 foot. I have no problems loading the Spyders. I have added a smaller fold down ramp to the stock door for easier loading. The wheels are not completely under the trailer, so there is plenty of room inside. I also raise the front of the trailer a bit with the jack to give a little room for the underside of the Spyder to clear the hinge area.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
A Spyder will load just fine with a door width of less than 7 feet. Most 7 foot trailers are measured between the axle backing plates, so the box is less, the door even less, and the width between the door cables smaller still. Anything between the cables of 66 inches or more should work fine, and give a couple of spare inches on each side to maneuver. I cover the cables with split pool noodles, to provide some protection just in case.
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