I hate brake fluid

[red]

I hate brake fluids and the bad things when you get moisture in the system.I find it hard to believe that my system is vented to the air 2008 rs.since i can't use Dot 5 then how about using vegetable oil.We used to put it in dirt bikes,but the times are changing Has any one tried it in the spyder.

 

[NancysToy]

Don't screw with your brakes! Use what is recommended (DOT4) and change it at the specified intervals.

 

[billrob71]

DO NOT use any kind of oil unless you want to replace everything with rubber parts in the system and not be able to stop!!!!!! It's not like a petroleum base oil but will degrade the internal parts



Dot 5 is a silicone base fluid that has a higher temperature rating but still needs to be changed every couple years . Better off sticking with dot 4 unless you have the know how to do your own maintenance. Dot 5 is always gonna be little more money then dot 4 but not sure you will need it. These are not race bikes and that's about the only reason for needing it.

 

[Bob Ledford]

Changing brake fluidsm

I can tell you from experience changing brake fluid specification will cause you more aggregation then you will want on your plate. Did that trick on my 88 GW in less then a week I rebuilt the clutch and fronts. And the rears a day later ate the rubber components slam up. DOT 5 being silicone based is wonderful stuff on heavy equipment but motorcycle grade rubber brake and clutch parts just don't seem to want to sleep together very well.

If you really want to go for it but order a complete repair kit before you do it will help shorten your down time. That is my 2 cents worth!

 

[boborgera]

I hate brake fluids and the bad things when you get moisture in the system.I find it hard to believe that my system is vented to the air 2008 rs.since i can't use Dot 5 then how about using vegetable oil.We used to put it in dirt bikes,but the times are changing Has any one tried it in the spyder.

:hun:
Your kidding right???

 

[Freddy]

:hun:
Your kidding right???

No he is not. However DOT 5.1 is compatible with DOT 4 but not DOT 5. :yikes:

 

[red]

hate Dot4 brake fluids

I NEVER really said that I wanted to use Dot5 fluid.The military uses it or did Harley used silicone fluid. Into the 90rd.Dot 5 does not absorb water but is so slippery that it is hard to keep in the system.The other problem the nitrite rubber used in dot4 systems is not compatible with silicone systems.vegetable oil dosnt have these problems. Read the label on the brake fluids bottle and it says use only new clean fluid from a sealed bottle...All vehicles use a sealed system.That's what the rubber diaphram on the master cylinder is for.to keep seperate the fluid and the air.now here is BRP and when their diaphragm drops down the brake failure warning comes on.BRP solution,cut a slice in the diaphragm that stops the problem.Now moisture is absorbed,hot brakes boil the water,this leaves a air pocket this means soft brake peddle.You crash and die,problem solved.If you don't die the newly formed air pocket eventually goes up the line and blowes DOT 4 BRAKE OUT WITH IT MAKEING A MESS,eating any paint it touches.I HATE DOT4BRAKE FLuid.Thereto my question about using vegetable oil. I have for the last 50yrs done all my own service except when it comes to to computer controlled systems.This ain't rocket science,and I don't run to the dealer for a tail light

 

[spyryder]

I NEVER really said that I wanted to use Dot5 fluid.The military uses it or did Harley used silicone fluid. Into the 90rd.Dot 5 does not absorb water but is so slippery that it is hard to keep in the system.The other problem the nitrite rubber used in dot4 systems is not compatible with silicone systems.vegetable oil dosnt have these problems. Read the label on the brake fluids bottle and it says use only new clean fluid from a sealed bottle...All vehicles use a sealed system.That's what the rubber diaphram on the master cylinder is for.to keep seperate the fluid and the air.now here is BRP and when their diaphragm drops down the brake failure warning comes on.BRP solution,cut a slice in the diaphragm that stops the problem.Now moisture is absorbed,hot brakes boil the water,this leaves a air pocket this means soft brake peddle.You crash and die,problem solved.If you don't die the newly formed air pocket eventually goes up the line and blowes DOT 4 BRAKE OUT WITH IT MAKEING A MESS,eating any paint it touches.I HATE DOT4BRAKE FLuid.Thereto my question about using vegetable oil. I have for the last 50yrs done all my own service except when it comes to to computer controlled systems.This ain't rocket science,and I don't run to the dealer for a tail light

Sorry but you're wrong, pretty much ALL automotive brake systems ARE vented to the atmosphere. Have a close look at any rubber diaphram on the master cylinder and you will find a slit in it somewhere. This was hashed out on this forum waaaaay back in '08. Here's one of the threads:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?4502-Master-Cylinder-Caps&highlight=diaphragm+slit

 

[billrob71]

Sorry but you're wrong, pretty much ALL automotive brake systems ARE vented to the atmosphere. Have a close look at any rubber diaphram on the master cylinder and you will find a slit in it somewhere. This was hashed out on this forum waaaaay back in '08. Here's one of the threads:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?4502-Master-Cylinder-Caps&highlight=diaphragm+slit

I have not had the caps off my spyder but there are no splits in the rubber diaphragm in a automotive master cylinder at least in my 30 plus year of working with cars and trucks. You would see the rubber pulled down as the fluid gets low. The cap may have a vent but only to allow the diaphragm to move

 

[billrob71]

I checked my caps and sure enough the diaphragms are split also brake fluid in the top of the caps and down the reservoir leaking, now seeing this and my question is not to steal red's thread but brake fluid is flammable does not explode but will burn. if there is enough that runs down the rubber line to the master cylinder which is right by the exhaust and on my bike and the catalytic converter which does get extremely hot and possibly cause the fluid to ignite. Would not take much and I read a thread that the heat repellent foam that is on the inside of the tupperware is flammable also the two together would be a good combination.

 

[spyryder]

I have not had the caps off my spyder but there are no splits in the rubber diaphragm in a automotive master cylinder at least in my 30 plus year of working with cars and trucks. You would see the rubber pulled down as the fluid gets low. The cap may have a vent but only to allow the diaphragm to move

Here's an example from a Ford Taurus, it's very similar to the caps on a Spyder. Very hard to see the slit unless you push up from underneath. Also the cap itself has venting grooves at the 2 and 8 o'clock positions in the 3rd pic.

 

[DrewNJ]

I agree about the brake fluid running out of the reservoir....
However, the problem isn't the vented caps, it's how Full you have to run the fluid to keep the warning lights off. The fluid level is way higher than it needs to be.
Currently, I have a small strip of a shop towel that I tuck in around the caps to catch any weeping. (yes, cap vents are pointing up toward the rear).
I might bypass the float sensors over the winter and pull some of the fluid out. There really is no need to run the reservoir THAT full.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bob Denman]

:agree: with Scotty... Do what they say; itll work out for the best! :thumbup:
Screwing with the brakes is like screwing with the I.R.S.; it's gonna REALLY hurt when things go wrong! :yikes: