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Question for do-it-yourself oil changers . . .

new drain plugs

First thing I did was order a set of gold magnetic drain plugs no more dinky allen wrench for me, now a good old 6 poi8nt socket, now if I could just find a remote filter adapter for the oil and trans. :ohyea:
 
Pardon my ignorance . . .

I'm getting ready to do my 3K oil change on my 2009 SE, and Lamont's step-by-step guide made it very easy-- so far. The drain plugs seem as if someone welded them in place. Just wondering if any of you experienced tight plugs, and how you removed them. First, I know I need to go to Sears or somewhere and get a GOOD 6mm hex wrench. Mine (a cheap one, of course) has already started to become rounded by just trying to loosen the plugs. I guess I'm just scared that the plug will strip, not the wrench. :bowdown:
. . . . but where did you find Lamont's step by step instructions? I hear so many people talking about things that Lamont puts out or offers but is there a website or something for everything Lamont"? Apparently, he's 'da man!
 
allen sockets

. . . . but where did you find Lamont's step by step instructions? I hear so many people talking about things that Lamont puts out or offers but is there a website or something for everything Lamont"? Apparently, he's 'da man!
when it came time for me to do my first oil change, i went to autozone and bought a nice little set of metric allen sockets for about ten bucks. they have been great. i didn't know there were metric allens.:roflblack:
 
bolts

Just my $.02 worth here.I was a journyman tool maker for 20+ years.These are a few tidbits I learned over the years.You never torque a dry bolt or nut.You use oil or ant-seize befor assembly.This was demonstrated to me years ago by one pretty smart man while I was going thru my training.We put a bolt in a vice and toqured it several times dry then we used another bolt and toqured it with anti-seize.The dry bolt will gull over time and make it hard to losen.If you look at and feel the two bolts you can see the results. For menny years now,I have anti-seized my lug nuts,every spark plug every drain plug every oil filter and every gasket and I never had any thing come loose or leak. You should always change your oil when its hot.the reason is that when the oil is hot,all of the crud in your engine will be suspended in the oil.If you change it when it is cold,that crud has settled somewhere in your engine and might not drain out. I agree with Scotty,a bolt that is not adequetly torqued con come lose and fall out.And for John,a little anti-seize in your oil will not hurt a thing.I didn`t plow with mules like Ken but I did plow with a f12 Farmall with steel lugs on the wheels.I exspect every one here will do things their way which they should.I learned years ago,we don`t know what we don`t know.I guess every thing you read on the internet is true.[ NOT ]
 
Yea, my drain plugs were apparently installed by some amphetamine crazed tech with a 500 lb/ft torque wrench. I was especially impressed with BRPs brilliant decision to use :cus: sunken allen head round shoulder plugs. Made 'em a lot more fun to try and spin out with my thumb and finger once I got them loosened :cus:, :cus:. No, no,...............really...................I enjoyed the experience; felt it made me a better person! :joke:
 
Just my $.02 worth here.I was a journyman tool maker for 20+ years.These are a few tidbits I learned over the years.You never torque a dry bolt or nut.You use oil or ant-seize befor assembly.This was demonstrated to me years ago by one pretty smart man while I was going thru my training.We put a bolt in a vice and toqured it several times dry then we used another bolt and toqured it with anti-seize.The dry bolt will gull over time and make it hard to losen.If you look at and feel the two bolts you can see the results. For menny years now,I have anti-seized my lug nuts,every spark plug every drain plug every oil filter and every gasket and I never had any thing come loose or leak. You should always change your oil when its hot.the reason is that when the oil is hot,all of the crud in your engine will be suspended in the oil.If you change it when it is cold,that crud has settled somewhere in your engine and might not drain out. I agree with Scotty,a bolt that is not adequetly torqued con come lose and fall out.And for John,a little anti-seize in your oil will not hurt a thing.I didn`t plow with mules like Ken but I did plow with a f12 Farmall with steel lugs on the wheels.I exspect every one here will do things their way which they should.I learned years ago,we don`t know what we don`t know.I guess every thing you read on the internet is true.[ NOT ]
Drain plug threads are never dry except at the factory or following an engine rebuild, so additional lubrication serves no purpose. Unless otherwise stated, torque values are for dry fasteners. For those application the torque must be reduced when the fastener is lubricated or the fastener will be over-tightened. The type of lubricant changes the effect, so a fastener torqued dry to 80 lbf-ft may be under as much tension at 40 lbf-ft if lubricated with 10W-30 oil, and as much tension at 20 lbf-ft with anti-seize. It is super easy to stretch or break a lubricated fastener if it is torqued to the value expected for a dry fastener. My advice is to follow the manufacturer's recommendation or the torque tables...and leave the fastener dry unless it is stated to do otherwise. For drain plugs, just use the recommended torque and let the residual oil do the lubrication.
 
Drain plug threads are never dry except at the factory or following an engine rebuild, so additional lubrication serves no purpose. Unless otherwise stated, torque values are for dry fasteners. For those application the torque must be reduced when the fastener is lubricated or the fastener will be over-tightened. The type of lubricant changes the effect, so a fastener torqued dry to 80 lbf-ft may be under as much tension at 40 lbf-ft if lubricated with 10W-30 oil, and as much tension at 20 lbf-ft with anti-seize. It is super easy to stretch or break a lubricated fastener if it is torqued to the value expected for a dry fastener. My advice is to follow the manufacturer's recommendation or the torque tables...and leave the fastener dry unless it is stated to do otherwise. For drain plugs, just use the recommended torque and let the residual oil do the lubrication.
Been working on cars,trucks and bikes for many years and have always followed what you stated with no issues.
 
If you're going to save money by changing your own oil you might as well spend the money on some good tools to do it with. Get yourself a 3/8" drive allen socket with a long handle ratchet and it should some right out. It is a good idea to warm up the motor first.:doorag:
Where can i find your step by step instructions?:opps:
 
side note

I have 43,000 on my 2010 RTSM5, and have changed
the oil myself, the last 13 times. I change it every 3K,
and on the last change, the magnetic plug sheered...:yikes:

in a panic of having the damn thing stuck in the pan,
I reached up and was lucky enough to be able to unscrew
it by hand. when I called the dealership to ask if they had
one in stock... the jerked my chain and told me it'd be ten
days before they could get one (I have some sick puppies
working in the Parts Dept.)(they took great advantage of
my crisis and had fun with it...):roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:. I drove 40 miles and
snatched up the two they had in stock, and we all laughed
at the whole thing.

but... they did inform me that these plugs are prone to
sheering off. just be careful and have a spare on hand for
when it DOES happen. ;)
 
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