• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Early GS have T40 Torx drain plug

I suspect the aberration is just a supplier problem. I have purchased a package of fasteners a few times in the past where some of the fasteners were a different type, although they were the same size. I even got a package of screws once where a few of them had no threads. The bottom line is..."Be sure of the fastener type before putting a tool to it." A light and a mirror may be needed to see what your drain plugs are. If you want to march in step with the rest of us, or make both your plugs the same, you can purchase new drain plugs at your dealer.

I got a spark plug once and it had no threads. I told people it was a special racing quick connect plug. It kind of looked like a large version of the male end of an air hose connection. Amazing how many people believed me!

I've still got that around here somewhere...
 
I got a spark plug once and it had no threads. I told people it was a special racing quick connect plug. It kind of looked like a large version of the male end of an air hose connection. Amazing how many people believed me!

I've still got that around here somewhere...

That's a classic! I hope it's there on your mantle.
 
Now that the damage is done?

Hi Everyone, decided its time to save a $100. and do my own oil change. Seemed simple enough until I discovered the plugs were torqued by The Hulk, and the one in the engine was on its last leg. So, now that its stripped. How do I get it out? Thanks for any help.:dontknow:


Street
 
Hi Everyone, decided its time to save a $100. and do my own oil change. Seemed simple enough until I discovered the plugs were torqued by The Hulk, and the one in the engine was on its last leg. So, now that its stripped. How do I get it out? Thanks for any help.:dontknow:


Street

Easy-Out, chisel, vise-grips...there are lots of ways. Have the new plug handy before you try.
 
I've heard that it's possible to take a hammer and chisel :shocked: to it in order to loosen it up... Set the chisel into the buggered-up part of it, and start tapping... :yikes:

But frankly; that idea scares me almost as much as the thought of what the dealer would charge to do the same thing!
36_11_1.gif
 
Thanks again

I've heard that it's possible to take a hammer and chisel :shocked: to it in order to loosen it up... Set the chisel into the buggered-up part of it, and start tapping... :yikes:

But frankly; that idea scares me almost as much as the thought of what the dealer would charge to do the same thing!
36_11_1.gif

Hi All. Thanks again for your priceless assistance. I completed my first oil change on anything, and did it on my Spyder. Didn't really keep track of time took because of the amount of time I allowed it to drain and not getting the new plug until the next day. But it was worth it. (Gained some knowledge) and will continue to do my own. The previously stripped drain plug was the only glitch. I didn't trust myself tapping on my engine with a chisel, so I used pliers. Thanks again to all contributors.
:bowdown:
 
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