BONE Head move

[78OldRide]

While doing my rear tire replacement had the tire off caliper hanging down supported. Next step was dumb out of habit set brake to turn off key.
Now I have a caliber closed pad to pad. Question is can you use a clamp to push the rotor back in? Should I break lose the banjo bolt? Drain all the brake fluid?
Any help would be great. And yes I have thick skin so let the comments role.
Gary

 

[otter28169]

While doing my rear tire replacement had the tire off caliper hanging down supported. Next step was dumb out of habit set brake to turn off key.
Now I have a caliber closed pad to pad. Question is can you use a clamp to push the rotor back in? Should I break lose the banjo bolt? Drain all the brake fluid?
Any help would be great. And yes I have thick skin so let the comments role.
Gary

I had to read it twice to get a mental picture, so I am not going to give you a hard time. I am interested to see how this works out. We are all creatures of habit, and we all do things like this at times. Good luck

 

[spyryder]

Don't touch the banjo bolt or drain any fluid, And don't try to force it with a C clamp! The parking brake is mechanically actuated and needs to be backed off. There should be some sort of shaft on the side of the caliper which needs to be threaded back into place.

 

[spyryder]

I would not break open the system.

You should be able to force the pistons back just as you might have to do if replacing the pads.

You can't just force the piston back because of the parking brake actuator shaft which is threaded into the piston. This shaft must be rotated to retract the piston.

 

[SpyderAnn01]

Can't you turn the key back on and take the parking brake off?

 

[spyryder]

Ok I'm not 100% sure since I haven't got a service manual but from looking at the parts fiche you may have to remove the bellcrank #7 in the diagram. Then the shaft that you need to turn to retract the piston will be accesible.
(or like Spyderanne says maybe turn the key on to release??)

 

[Chupaca]

Let's see..!!

if you turn the key on to release the park brake you should be able to pry the piston back. Or release/unhook the cable this will allow the bell crank to release pressure. Just make sure you hook the cable back up and adjust it properly..good luck...:thumbup:

 

[spyryder]

I assumed, apparently incorrectly, that the OP deactivated the electronic parking brake after he realized he had activated it and was left with a situation of
1. The parking brake was now off after being applied for a short period
2. The brake pads were in contact with each other.

That sounds quite possible as well.

 

[MrLooney]

BONE HEAD MOVE

Good Luck in your learning Curve :bbq::bbq::cheers:

 

[Bob Denman]

I think that Anne's right...
Key up, turn the brake off, and just pry the pads back to where they belong... :thumbup:

 

[78OldRide]

It's me again

Thanks for all the replies. I turned the key on and tried to deactivate the park brake was able to move pads a little. Right now I have the park brake off and have removed the pads still not able to get 1 pad back on. looks like I will take a butt whooping on this one.
I'm at 12000 mi so I will probably replace brake fluid while I'm here.
All things considered I'm learning more about the Spyder so life is good.
I'll update when I'm mission complete.
Thanks Gary

 

[kinggeek]

Can't you turn the key back on and take the parking brake off?

That would be the first thing I would try!

 

[NancysToy]

Thanks for all the replies. I turned the key on and tried to deactivate the park brake was able to move pads a little. Right now I have the park brake off and have removed the pads still not able to get 1 pad back on. looks like I will take a butt whooping on this one.
I'm at 12000 mi so I will probably replace brake fluid while I'm here.
All things considered I'm learning more about the Spyder so life is good.
I'll update when I'm mission complete.
Thanks Gary

The pistons do not retract easily. Keep trying. They will move. I know all about the C-clamp warnings, but sometimes a litle gentle help is necessary. I wouldn't give up too easily. JMHO

 

[kinggeek]

The pistons do not retract easily. Keep trying. They will move. I know all about the C-clamp warnings, but sometimes a litle gentle help is necessary. I wouldn't give up too easily. JMHO

What is the issue with using clamps to retract the pistons? It takes a lot of force to compress the pistons, i don't see how you could so it without a clamp. I have done it in every brake change and have no issues.

 

[spyryder]

What is the issue with using clamps to retract the pistons? It takes a lot of force to compress the pistons, i don't see how you could so it without a clamp. I have done it in every brake change and have no issues.

Yes normally it's no problem using a C clamp but in this case with the parking brake integrated into the caliper means the actuator shaft is threaded into the piston. That shaft pushes the piston out when the parking brake is applied. You have to make sure it's rotated back into the retracted position before you can push on the piston. Even just turning it might pull the piston back in. :dontknow:

 

[NancysToy]

Yes normally it's no problem using a C clamp but in this case with the parking brake integrated into the caliper means the actuator shaft is threaded into the piston. That shaft pushes the piston out when the parking brake is applied. You have to make sure it's rotated back into the retracted position before you can push on the piston. Even just turning it might pull the piston back in. :dontknow:

Exactly!

 

[Bob Denman]

Pushing the pistons back in? Grab a decently-long screwdriver, and leverage them back out of the way! :shocked:
...keeping in mind that there's a lot of disaster potential with this method... pps:
But, it has always worked for me! :thumbup:

 

[jerpinoy]

JMHO Put everything back together and then start all over again. Now when everything is back together release the parking brake. Let us know if this thing work for you.

 

[Firefly]

Did something similar on my 2008 GS once during a break pad change. Was able to get pistons back into their homes and all was well.

No need to drain the fluid, etc..... that's going to require using BUDDS and bleeding, etc..... a royal pain.

I wouldn't bother replacing either the brake or clutch fluids at only 12,000 miles. I had almost 60,000 on my GS and had never done either -- and it all worked fine.

 

[Bob Denman]

JMHO Put everything back together and then start all over again. Now when everything is back together release the parking brake. Let us know if this thing work for you.

Hey!
I get to use this one TWICE in just one day! :thumbup: :roflblack: