How many other average Joe owners are changing the oil themselves?

[Greg H.]

By next week, I will be due for my second oil change (4,150 miles). My dealer changed it the first time when I had the first service done at 1,150 miles.

I was looking at the manual, and the next service is just the oil change. So, I figured since I have had most of the panels off (a few times), how difficult would it be to change the oil myself. Not to mention, save some cash. I know the 6,000 mile service could cost more than $200.

I think I have the basic tools needed. But, it appears. I will need to get some new seals, the oil filter, and oil.

 

[Rando]

Following Lamonster's instructions, I was able to do my own oil change and I consider myself just an average Joe.

 

[Greg H.]

Following Lamonster's instructions, I was able to do my own oil change and I consider myself just an average Joe.

:thumbup: Checking those out now. Thanks for pointing me over there.

 

[bjt]

I've been changing the oil in my Spyder almost from the get go (the dealer did the first service / oil change).

 

[smokster]

I've been changing the oil in my Spyder almost from the get go (the dealer did the first service / oil change).

I now change my own oil.

 

[Donzo]

I changed mine yesterday - took about one hour - you can do it. All you need are Torx and allen keys with extentions (you can use a vise grip for extention) my bolts were way over tight.
The oil and filter looked very clean :thumbup:

 

[Roaddog2]

I just consider it part of the course I do maint on everthing I own that I can handle :thumbup:

 

[GA-SPYDER]

Purchased a service manual and have changed my own oilfrom the begining. I like working on my own vehicles.:thumbup:

 

[SpyderGirl]

It's so easy, even your average JILL can do it!

 

[sabunim5]

Changed my own oil and filter since after the first 600 mile service. Have some metric hex sockets on my Christmas list so I can use my tourque wrench on the crush washers. They will make getting those overtightened plugs out so much easier. I have some mechanical knowledge and experince, but am by no means a "qualified mechanic", strictly "shade tree". That means I know just enough to be dangerous to myself and to my machine. Between your operators guide and the info on the forum, YOU can do it.
Ryde Safe and Enjoy :thumbup:
sabunim5:spyder:

 

[SpyderByter]

Just got my Spyder at the end of Oct. I just hit the 600 mile mark. Called Land n' Sea to have them do the first service, but those guys are swamped getting snowmobiles ready for the Winter. They won't be able to get to it anytime soon, and I want the machine available to me to ride as much as I can before the snow comes. Since I don't want to put anymore miles on it with the break in oil, I will be changing it myself. They had the filter and O ring in stock, but no washers, or oil, so I will reuse the washers. I bought 5 quarts of Castrol Syntech 5w-40. It seems to meet all the specs, and the guys at the dealer said thats comperable.

 

[NancysToy]

Just got my Spyder at the end of Oct. I just hit the 600 mile mark. Called Land n' Sea to have them do the first service, but those guys are swamped getting snowmobiles ready for the Winter. They won't be able to get to it anytime soon, and I want the machine available to me to ride as much as I can before the snow comes. Since I don't want to put anymore miles on it with the break in oil, I will be changing it myself. They had the filter and O ring in stock, but no washers, or oil, so I will reuse the washers. I bought 5 quarts of Castrol Syntech 5w-40. It seems to meet all the specs, and the guys at the dealer said thats comperable.

I have not seen 5W-40 in a Castrol oil. Read the Syntech label carefully to make sure it exactly meets the BRP specs. Quoting from the manual:

Use BRP XP-S 5W40 synthetic oil
(P/N 293 600 039) or an equivalentmotorcycle
oil meeting the requirements
for API service SL, SJ, SH or SG classification.
Always check the API service
label on the oil container.​

NOTICE​

​

​

​

​

To avoid damaging the
clutch, do not use a motor oil meeting
the API service SMor ILSACGF-4
classification. Clutch slippage will
occurs.

The last part of this is the important one. Another clue is to avoid oils with the energy saving symbol on the label. Nobody here has ever mentioned the Castrol Syntech. Be careful!
-Scotty​

 

[Putt-Putt]

I've been changing the oil in my Spyder almost from the get go (the dealer did the first service / oil change).

Same here.

 

[sleepman]

I did it once and that was enough for me. Besides I bought my dealers VIP service program so I get free oil changes for life. :clap:

 

[OkiNutsEP3]

uh huh......, I'll remember you said that the next time I change your oil. J/K! I know I've seen your sig pic on your GPS unit before. That's what PPM is for......use it.........that way I can eat. I really don't care what you do. But do follow routine maint. schedule please. BRP looks at that for warrenty sometimes.

 

[sleepman]

uh huh......, I'll remember you said that the next time I change your oil. J/K! I know I've seen your sig pic on your GPS unit before. That's what PPM is for......use it.........that way I can eat. I really don't care what you do. But do follow routine maint. schedule please. BRP looks at that for warrenty sometimes.

I like to leave stuff to the experts. Gotta say your dealership steered me right on the VIP plan, saves me time and money in the long run.