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Issue during winterization! Oil plug ring

Sopher

New member
When changing the oil for My first time(Oil changed by dealer at 700mi.) I went to replace the drain plug ring with a new copper ring. Wrong size, correct part#. I have 420250640 as per Lamont's thread here:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4429

The ring is the right outside diameter, but wrong inside diameter. It needs to be a larger ID as it wont even fit over the plug!

Can I get away with using the original ring? I have not yet put new oil in. Waiting for response from here. I haven't even taken the plug off the drain under the filter as I imagine that has the same issue.
 
I'm not sure if they changed the part number or what but now it looke like it's a 705500506

I have yet to change my o-ring or my crushwasher and have never had a drip after 25,000 miles.
 
Thanks for the quick reply. I bet the engine is still warm!
I'll keep the original crush washer.

But a question on the drain plug torque. When I removed the plug, it was under a tremendous torque. Too tight almost. Would you suggest as tight as I can muster, or use a torque wrench to some spec?

I bet the dealer used an air gun to tighten!

So far I have done these winterizing steps:
Topped of the tank.
Filled tires to 28lbs.
Put in gas stabilizer (not Stabil but another product recommended by the dealer.)
Keep the battery on a Optimate 4 charger.
Sprayed the inside of the intake with Fogger oil. Do I need to take the spark plugs off? Can't exactly locate them.
In the middle of replacing the oil.

Need to:
finish the oil change thing!
Turn over the engine a few so the Fogger oil spreads.
Put the bike up on jacks.
 
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I never use a torque wrench on those. Just get it tight enough that it won't fall out and it don't leak.
 
Allways replace the crush washer and torque the drain bolt.your oil pan will last longer.you wont have any problems now.I have replaced many oil pans because of this and replaced a few engines because the drain bolt fell out,the oil pan will not wear out by not replacing the washer till around 100k.My dealership replace them everytime!
 
The two plugs have different size copper washers. The one you have goes to the other plug.

I have not replaced mine either. No drips. 4th oil change.
 
But a question on the drain plug torque. When I removed the plug, it was under a tremendous torque. Too tight almost. Would you suggest as tight as I can muster, or use a torque wrench to some spec?
I did have to replace one crush washer last time, as it was indented (from overtightening at dealer service?) Good thing the only one of the two the dealer had was the one I needed. Pays to have one of each handy, just in case.

I torqued my plug and bolt. O&M manual page 84 (SM5 manual) says 23 Nm (17 lb ft) for the drain plug, and 20 Nm (15 lb ft) for the cover bolt.
-Scotty
 
I stayed with the original ring. I get a spare at some point. Finished the oil change.

Good thing I remembered some said that alot of smoke will pour out of the muffler after having the intake fogged.

I rolled :spyder:out of the garage, closed the garage door and then started it up in neutral. Dark night. kinda cold. Lots of smoke. Looked like a smoke show in the neighborhood. The cold kept the smoke low and lingering for a very long time. oops. sorry neighbors.:opps:

She's getting her battery tickled now. I'll give her a good cleaning tomorrow; put her clothes back on and then I'll jack her up. Wait. Did I just say that?

oh hun... i can explain...
 
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