Bob Denman
New member
:shocked:You make RonCans too?? :bowdown::bowdown: :joke:
What's the next part to get the "Full-on Ron Treatment"? :thumbup: nojoke
What's the next part to get the "Full-on Ron Treatment"? :thumbup: nojoke
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There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Checking oil level
- Thread starter frank3
- Start date
bertmc
New member
Have I worried for naught about airbox oil?
"The RT has a different design. I have heard of no problems with the RT, and had none myself."
Ron, I noted this quote from Scotty from April 2011 about airbox oil when reading the thread with your catch-can description. Is it confirmed that there is no need to be concerned about this on the RT? I somehow missed any RT exception when reading other comments about it. If so, that's one less thing to worry about! I'd have to pay someone to rig up that solution for me.
(And I think I was wrong on the sight guage bike. I think it was my '99 KLT 1200 Beemer. It came with a little flashlight & you had to get down on your hands and knees and shine the light on the window under the engine. Any other ex-Beemer guys remember that, or am I still wrong?)
Bert
"The RT has a different design. I have heard of no problems with the RT, and had none myself."
Ron, I noted this quote from Scotty from April 2011 about airbox oil when reading the thread with your catch-can description. Is it confirmed that there is no need to be concerned about this on the RT? I somehow missed any RT exception when reading other comments about it. If so, that's one less thing to worry about! I'd have to pay someone to rig up that solution for me.
(And I think I was wrong on the sight guage bike. I think it was my '99 KLT 1200 Beemer. It came with a little flashlight & you had to get down on your hands and knees and shine the light on the window under the engine. Any other ex-Beemer guys remember that, or am I still wrong?)
Bert
BajaRon
Well-known member
I'm not sure that no RT's had the oil in the air box issue but I think it was much less of an issue with the RT.
zbunker
New member
Just a thought but wondering why there couldn't be some acceptable way to check the Spyder oil level, while the engine is cold and has set for some period of time. The reason I'm asking this question is I'm always frustrated with the foam in the oil when checking it as outlined in the owners manual. Perhaps, I'm not waiting long enough after shutting the engine off but at any rate, if you follow the procedure, mine at least, will always read higher than I think it should because of the 1/2 to 1" of foam on top of the oil in the oil tank. Seems to me that checking it on level ground, cold and having set for at least a couple of hours, should be doable. Of course, I'd expect the oil level to be much lower at that point but I'd think it would be predictable. Seems that the same (constant) ammount of oil would drain back into the engine crankcase.opcorn:Thoughts?
Perhaps you might join me in conducting a 'study' as an alternative to checking oil when the motor is cold.. When I put this out, the knowledgeable mavins on the site kinda gave me the
I found that checking the oil on the scooter to be quite a challenge: RT SE5
Run till the engine is warm, run through the gears, shut off and run for 30 sec. then check. ...COOL; I find I have to check quick. Check more than once, and the level changes.
So I decided to try a different approach and see how it would work if I could get an accurate cold measurement.
I measured the depth of the 'pan' to the top of the threaded neck to be 10 1/2 inches.
After having an oil change, I took a cold measurement (over night) with my own dip stick, and it read 6 1/2 inches from the bottom of the oil tank, Presuming that the dealer gave me a good count.
(That should mean the oil level is full (I think, and/or hope)
The Original stick is 4 inches inches long which is just shy of getting a reading
It would seem to me that a cold check would be a little safer (and accurate) than the called for procedure.
Consider if going through the 'called for' operation you come to find out you have little or no oil in the motor:yikes:
I would appreciate any thoughts to any of this stuff.
Thanks, Ron
BajaRon
Well-known member
Perhaps you might join me in conducting a 'study' as an alternative to checking oil when the motor is cold.. When I put this out, the knowledgeable mavins on the site kinda gave me the
I found that checking the oil on the scooter to be quite a challenge: RT SE5
Run till the engine is warm, run through the gears, shut off and run for 30 sec. then check. ...COOL; I find I have to check quick. Check more than once, and the level changes.
So I decided to try a different approach and see how it would work if I could get an accurate cold measurement.
I measured the depth of the 'pan' to the top of the threaded neck to be 10 1/2 inches.
After having an oil change, I took a cold measurement (over night) with my own dip stick, and it read 6 1/2 inches from the bottom of the oil tank, Presuming that the dealer gave me a good count.
(That should mean the oil level is full (I think, and/or hope)
The Original stick is 4 inches inches long which is just shy of getting a reading
It would seem to me that a cold check would be a little safer (and accurate) than the called for procedure.
Consider if going through the 'called for' operation you come to find out you have little or no oil in the motor:yikes:
I would appreciate any thoughts to any of this stuff.
Thanks, Ron
The problem is that a dry sump oil system is dynamic, not static as are oil pan systems.
In any case you want to know what the oil level is while the engine is running on the Spyder. Of course it isn't a good idea to pull the dipstick while the engine is actually running, so how to accomplish this?
Well, at operating temperature (oil, not coolant temperature gauge) the oil level is the same for a time after shut down as it is when the engine is running. So that is the ideal time to check it.
The very best time to check your oil level is when you return from a ride. That way you can add oil if necessary and not have to worry about it when you get ready to ride again. The worst, and virtually useless, time to check your oil is when you get ready to ride your cold Spyder.
Idling it in the garage until the temp gauge comes up is not going to work because the oil is still cold. You're going to get a low reading. Then you will add oil. As you ride the oil will expand as it reaches operating temperature. Now you are over full and will probably get blow-by.
Frankly, I think the is the reason dealer oil changes end up too full or not full enough. They are guessing because they don't have time to ride the bike and get an accurate oil level reading.
If I ever had anyone else change my oil I would ride it for 5~10 miles, pull into a gas station or level parking lot and check the oil to be sure they got it right.
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Correct me if I'm wrong, [and someone will] When i changed my oil [08Sm5] I just put in 4 qts and unless i forgot to tighten something there's no need to do a precise oil check, It's not rocket Science.
I'm not anal as to where i had to keep the oil level at the full mark at all times.
Half way between low and the full marks works for me with all my vehicles.
In my finding's, With Some engines the oil will seek it's own level and if you try to keep it at the full line at all times you'll just be adding a few ounces every thousand miles or so' For no reason.:dontknow:
I'm not anal as to where i had to keep the oil level at the full mark at all times.
Half way between low and the full marks works for me with all my vehicles.
In my finding's, With Some engines the oil will seek it's own level and if you try to keep it at the full line at all times you'll just be adding a few ounces every thousand miles or so' For no reason.:dontknow:
Sarge707
Active member
:agree: I put 4 Quarts in my RT SM5 and "Thats a Take!" Check every 3- 4 hundred miles at the END of a ride!:hun:
SpyderAnn01
Active member
I was on a ride yesterday and one of the Spyders got a check engine light. We stopped for gas and I asked him when was the last time he checked his oil and he said he didn't even know where to look! :yikes: Both his and his wife's were a quart low. 15,000 miles and they didn't know how to check the oil. :yikes: A quart of oil and no more check engine light!
zbunker
New member
Checking oil level w/ dowel
Are you checking the level with the engine hot or cold? I use a similar method with the engine cold and get a 6 1/2 inch reading when the oil is full.
Ron
Are you checking the level with the engine hot or cold? I use a similar method with the engine cold and get a 6 1/2 inch reading when the oil is full.
Ron
Sarge707
Active member
I think the Main difference when checking COLD is the atmospheric Conditions/ Temperature /Humidity/ because this can make a significant difference in the COLD level?
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