Battery Bolt

[gazunni]

Does anyone know the specs for the battery bolt on a spyder rts 2011. I need to get a slightly longer bolt and need the metric specs. Looked at brp parts list and it does not have the specifics.

 

[NancysToy]

It should be a 6 mm bolt, but I don't know the length, and I don't remember if it is coated or made of a different material, as is common with battery bolts. I am a little worried about why you need it to be longer. Adding more than one or two extra terminals (eyelets) to a battery connection is an invitation for problems. The dissimilar metals in contact with each other corrode rapidly, due to electrolysis, and the layers attract moisture which also results in corrosion. Longer bolts and connections can also cause pysical damage to the soft lead terminals, due to added leverage and weight. It is better to install an auxiliary fuse block...and wire your additional loads to that.

 

[gazunni]

It was a fuze block that i installed.( http://www.fuzeblocks.com/index.php?pid=1#board) With the battery tender , an air horn connection and the two factory connections it makes 5. I cant wire the air horn into the fuze block as it draws 18 amps peak and the fuze block can handle 10 amps on any circuit. The bolt seems to be a fraction short with the 3+2 connections. Any suggestions?

It should be a 6 mm bolt, but I don't know the length, and I don't remember if it is coated or made of a different material, as is common with battery bolts. I am a little worried about why you need it to be longer. Adding more than one or two extra terminals (eyelets) to a battery connection is an invitation for problems. The dissimilar metals in contact with each other corrode rapidly, due to electrolysis, and the layers attract moisture which also results in corrosion. Longer bolts and connections can also cause pysical damage to the soft lead terminals, due to added leverage and weight. It is better to install an auxiliary fuse block...and wire your additional loads to that.

 

[NancysToy]

It was a fuze block that i installed.( http://www.fuzeblocks.com/index.php?pid=1#board) With the battery tender , an air horn connection and the two factory connections it makes 5. I cant wire the air horn into the fuze block as it draws 18 amps peak and the fuze block can handle 10 amps on any circuit. The bolt seems to be a fraction short with the 3+2 connections. Any suggestions?

I'd still probably try to ditch a connection or two...or move one or two of the positives to to the positive jumper post. The battery tender and horn pigtails should do well there. There are auxiliary fuse blocks with higher capacity circuits, too. You can find alternate places to ground the negative side, if the negative terminal is also heavily stacked. Barring those measures, I guess the only answer is to measure the bolt, and install a longer one. Six mm bolts are usually available at the hardware store. BRP sells the bolt in a kit, however, so I expect it is coated and the replacement could enhance corrosion.

 

[spyderpoop]

negitive battery bolt connection

well you did better then I did I tried to install my heated vest wire connection to the battery snaked the wire under seat area connected the positive side with eyelet connectors and then the problem starts I unscrewed the negitive bolt to slide my connector under it and it just turns for 3 hour I tried and it just turns and wont loosed up to get the connector under it then it took a hour for some reason to tighten it back up ?? so i got to find another place to ground the wire to any sergestions as I a big DUMMY when it come to wireing but it seemed so easy a monkey can do it but guess I,am not a money as I could not do it haha Rich

 

[NancysToy]

well you did better then I did I tried to install my heated vest wire connection to the battery snaked the wire under seat area connected the positive side with eyelet connectors and then the problem starts I unscrewed the negitive bolt to slide my connector under it and it just turns for 3 hour I tried and it just turns and wont loosed up to get the connector under it then it took a hour for some reason to tighten it back up ?? so i got to find another place to ground the wire to any sergestions as I a big DUMMY when it come to wireing but it seemed so easy a monkey can do it but guess I,am not a money as I could not do it haha Rich

Some research here would probably have turned up a thousand threads warning you to never loosen the negative jumper terminal under the seat. It is the main rear frame ground, and is secured by a very hard to reach nut. You need to remove the right side body panels, bone up on your cuss words, and find a way to hold the nut and tighten it or the bolt. In the case of the Spyder, it pays to look before you leap.

 

[Bob Denman]

:agree: Touch THAT one, and you've just opened up the can of rattlesnakes that should be left alone at all costs! :yikes:

 

[gazunni]

Thanks Scotty. Moved the extra pigtails to the positive jumper post. Worked like a charm, no need to get an extra long bolt. Job is neat and tidy now. These forums are the best for getting info on the Spyder for the do-it-yourselfers.

I'd still probably try to ditch a connection or two...or move one or two of the positives to to the positive jumper post. The battery tender and horn pigtails should do well there. There are auxiliary fuse blocks with higher capacity circuits, too. You can find alternate places to ground the negative side, if the negative terminal is also heavily stacked. Barring those measures, I guess the only answer is to measure the bolt, and install a longer one. Six mm bolts are usually available at the hardware store. BRP sells the bolt in a kit, however, so I expect it is coated and the replacement could enhance corrosion.

 

[NancysToy]

Glad you got it worked out.