LCD Screen going haywire

[Easy Spyder Rider]

Hi all,

The LCD screen on my 2010 RT suddenly began goin haywire. After about 15 mins into a ride it went all grey, then afte a minut or two filled up with vertical color lines, thenaftyer another minute or two just one wide black line, then went blank for ~5 mins, then the CAN AM logor came on for a few, then the start up screen came on and it looke OK, I hit the mode button and the normal screen cam on. After a minute or two the whole cycle began again. I stopped and shut off the engine to reboot, the normal start-up screen came on, etc, back into the ride and 5 minutes later back into the haywire cycle. The kept up all through the ride for 3 hours. Checked all fuses, OK. Dealer says myabe a loose wire or some corrosion inside the gauge cluster. Taking it in for a check. Anybody else experience this?

Thanks,
Easy Spyder Rider

 

[docdoru]

:welcome:
Possible % answers from ...:
1. Ryder error.
2. Did you wash or ryde your Spyder recently in the rain? See 1.
3. Did you expose the display for a long time in the sun? See 1.
4. Did you upgrade to digital and disconnect the OEM analogue temperature and fuel connectors? See 1.
5. The digital display need to be replaced and all parts replaced in warranty will be reflected in increased price for future new units. See 1.

 

[harrypottar]

[SUB]being an outdoor machine I would expert the cluster to be waterproof. [/SUB]:dontknow:

Sounds like lose wire/bad ground somewhere, let us know what your dealer says.

btw who do you use as a dealer, I use Bob Skidoo very pleased with their expertise.

there is only one dealer I wouldn't use in MA, no names of course but they get 3f's from me.

Harry

 

[Easy Spyder Rider]

I'll let you know. The dealer thinks it might be a loose connection or some corrosion due to getting caught in a downpour a while ago with no cover. He's checking with Can Am directly for advice. My shop is 3A Motors in Chelmsford, MA. A Can Am dealer where I bought my 2010 RT, A+ all the way.

 

[harrypottar]

Fingers crossed that your dealer will find the issue, btw, I have ridden my spyder in monsoon rain many, many times to SITA - http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...om-SITA-wet-tied-wet-hungry-wet-happy-but-wet and a couple of weekends back through New York and New England - http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...es-over-this-weekend-and-guess-what-limp-mode just to name a couple. I would not expect behind the cluster to get wet, it's meant to be ridden outside. If that's what they find out to be the issue, can you please ask them to take some pictures for you to post. I recently had my dash off to have it color matched and it looked pretty new behind there, probably a lose wire, fingers crossed it's a quick fix.

harry

 

[Schnauzer]

Glitch in the giddy-up

Ours has done this from time to time, No issues have followed this miraculous gremlin other than irritated portions of the noggin by all the rubbing to figure it out.."ABSA" it is a voltage issue, or the lack of for a breif moment. If you tackle this yourself, be sure to get some non-conductive electrical grease and coat each connection you break for future preventative measures.

 

[NancysToy]

Ours has done this from time to time, No issues have followed this miraculous gremlin other than irritated portions of the noggin by all the rubbing to figure it out.."ABSA" it is a voltage issue, or the lack of for a breif moment. If you tackle this yourself, be sure to get some non-conductive electrical grease and coat each connection you break for future preventative measures.

It is not wise to use dielectric grease on electronic contacts...especially the pin-type that do not provide substantial sliding contact when being fastened, to wipe away the grease. It can inhibit contact, rather than protect it. Leave it for your trailer connector and the like. Cleaning the contacts with a contact cleaner that is safe for plastics, and reconnecting dry is safer. Putting a light film of the dielectric grease on the connector seal, to keep out water, is a better move. JMHO

 

[MidLifeCrisis]

The OP said 2010. That should pretty much guarantee a replacement is in order. At least that's what my dealer told me when mine went out. I was told the original part number was superseded by the 2011 version. It's a good idea to check the ride control functionality as well prior to leaving, because the system requires recalibration. That was missed on mine, so I had to go back. Met a guy on the road with the same issue and had the display changed by a different dealer. Evidently, few shops know they have to recalibrate the system after the repair!

Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk 2

 

[TicketBait]

mine was doing what the OP was doing along with some other things. They replaced the cluster with a 2011 cluster. back in July of 2011. Make sure you take a picture of your mileage and the repair bill indicating the odometer, that helped in getting my 25K pin.

 

[Schnauzer]

It is not wise to use dielectric grease on electronic contacts...especially the pin-type that do not provide substantial sliding contact when being fastened, to wipe away the grease. It can inhibit contact, rather than protect it. Leave it for your trailer connector and the like. Cleaning the contacts with a contact cleaner that is safe for plastics, and reconnecting dry is safer. Putting a light film of the dielectric grease on the connector seal, to keep out water, is a better move. JMHO

Thanks for making the comment about the substantial wiping, I never looked at it that way.
I will keep this in the memory bank incase I get anything Electrical back that is acting up. I normally apply a small amount on the female surface and let it do the rest during the insertion. Thats why I like this forum. So much good info! :read: