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Electrical conundrum.

BaldEagle

BaldEagle

New member
I'm reaching out to all of you Spyder gurus. I had a wire from my brightsides come loose from it's zip tie under the fender and was rubbed by the tire. The insulation was

worn through and bare wires (both pos and grnd). I'm sure they were in contact with one another. I now have no light on that side except a dim LED fender tip light.

I wanted to check that the lghts were OK so I put a 9 volt battery, with the ignition off, on the exposed wires, all of the LED's lit up to normal brightness. When I

checked the fuses they were fine. All of the other lights work fine including turn signals on both sides. The issue is that I am no longer getting enough current through

the supply wire to provide full power to light the lights. Any ideas for what I might look for would be helpful. Thanks in advance guys.:opps::banghead:
 
BaldEagle said:
I'm reaching out to all of you Spyder gurus. I had a wire from my brightsides come loose from it's zip tie under the fender and was rubbed by the tire. The insulation was

worn through and bare wires (both pos and grnd). I'm sure they were in contact with one another. I now have no light on that side except a dim LED fender tip light.

I wanted to check that the lghts were OK so I put a 9 volt battery, with the ignition off, on the exposed wires, all of the LED's lit up to normal brightness. When I

checked the fuses they were fine. All of the other lights work fine including turn signals on both sides. The issue is that I am no longer getting enough current through

the supply wire to provide full power to light the lights. Any ideas for what I might look for would be helpful. Thanks in advance guys.:opps::banghead:
Click to expand...


2 things come to mind:
1.) with an alternate power source, which bypasses the fuse completely, you have full illumination...so
2.) I would replace the fuse regardless of how it looks and check the system then.

DONT FORGET TO REPAIR THE EXPOSED WIRES 1st!
YOU MAY WANT TO CHECK THE OTHER SIDE WHILE YOU'RE AT IT....
 
Electrical conundrum

With the fuse in place, the rest of the lights operate, and are normal brightness. When I pull the fuse all of the lights go out (bright and dim). Replacing the original fuse relights everything with the original problem continuing. Does anyone know if there is independent left and right light control? Hmmm. Thanks for the input though.
 
Just some clarification and thoughts.

You say you put a nine volt battery on the damaged wire area and it worked just fine nice and bright, this would indicate that the wire from that point to the lights is fine.

When you use the 12 volt bike system there not working except the fender tip is dimmer, this would indicate an issue further up stream from the bad spit.

Assuming that you repaired the bad wire, did you cut that section out? did you replace it with the same gauge wire?

How did you repair the wire, clean up and tape, replace bad section, solder new wire in place use connectors etc.

Have you inspected the wire from end to end to make sure its not shorting along the way.

If you can post some pics would help

thanks

harry
 
The only thing that I know about electricals; is that I have to keep most of my fingers out of the light sockets at home... :shocked:
But it sounds as if Harry has brought up some good points to ponder! :thumbup:
 
Bob Denman said:
The only thing that I know about electricals; is that I have to keep most of my fingers out of the light sockets at home... :shocked:
But it sounds as if Harry has brought up some good points to ponder! :thumbup:
Click to expand...

I'm with you on that one.

Chris
 
It continues...

Thanks for the replies all. I'll try to clarify...The insulation was worn through but the wire strands remained intact. I'm sure there was contact between the two wires though. I

repaired the wire and turned on lights. Only the fender tip LED was lit and this was dim compared to the other side. I wanted to test the lights so...There is a oem connector about

halfway up the control arm for the fender lighting. I disconnected this and tested the LED's with a battery from the light side. All LED's burned brightly. I posi-tapped the wire above

the connector (on the bike side) and the fender tip light was back to dim. So...what are your thoughts guys. It appears to be short on electrical current from the bike side. I replaced

the fuse though the same fuse appears to operate the lights on both sides with no change after doing so. I'll admit that this electrical stuff is not my forte. I have never used a circuit

tester or volt meter but is there a way to measure what current is being supplied to the dim fender light as opposed to the good side? I have a tester/meter. Thanks for the assist.
 
Last edited:
Update..

hey guys. I just used a voltmeter to measure volts on both sides. I am reading 12 volts on the good side as expected but only 4 volts from the other side. I took the measurement from the oem connector on the control arm. thoughts?:opps:
 
Thanks a million!

Hey guys. Thanks to your tips and suggestions I was able to narrow down and find the problem. I installed the fender tips kit with the brightsides so that I could use them as a turn

signal. It turns out that this device has a very small circuit board built into it and this was evidently injured (but not fatally) when the short occurred. I have added a picture of same.

This thing measures about 3/8 x 3/8 inches. Whodda thunk it. Took it out of the loop and the lights are bright as ever just no turn signal. If your listening, Custom Dynamics, is my

credit card still on file? I can't say enough what an outstanding site this is. You guys and gals are awesome folks...even you Bob. :bowdown::cheers:
Fender tips 001.jpg
 
DR Buck said:
You don't need to buy anything new. Get someone with a solder iron to attached the unconnected black wire to the corner of the circuit board where the 'G' is printed. That is a ground connection and explains the dim lights and lower voltage reading. You had an incomplete circuit on the return (ground) side.
Click to expand...


:agree:

I bet your 9-v battery test was done downstream of this board....thus bypassing this faulty component. As suggested, solder the wire back on, recheck the circuit and if OK...reinstall and go ride to celebrate your fix!
 
Thanks for the offer

Thanks for the offer quickster. I did solder the wire back and reinstalled but no dice. The chip got cooked when the short occurred. Sounds like you'll have your hands full soon with the Spyder from the UK.:roflblack:
 
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