Checking oil

[ivanlee]

I made this oil stick to check my oil. saves me from screwing it in and out,

 

[MMcc]

Dip stick

This looks very nice and quite simple to make. I wonder if someone again would explain why we cannot simply use a longer dip stick and just check the oil when the unit is cold. Like before a ride. Many times I am in a rush and don't have time to properly warm the bike up before leaving on a ride. Of course I always forget to check it when I return so the next day I wonder if the oil level is OK. I have not had a oil problem with the RT but the GS I traded in did use some oil. About 1 quart between changes.

 

[Jeriatric]

Very clever

:spyder2: :firstplace:





Edit: Now you need to come up with a sealed canister attached somewhere in the reservoir area so that it's readily available and clean. Just a thought:spyder:

 

[boborgera]

I made this oil stick to check my oil. saves me from screwing it in and out,View attachment 51031

Great, :firstplace:

 

[revjvegas]

...why we cannot simply use a longer dip stick and just check the oil when the unit is cold. ....

Basically because of the dry sump nature of the rotax and how it pumps the oil from the lower sump, over the cams and through the reservoir.

In order to get a proper reading, you have to get the system circulating because after sitting for a while, the oil settles and siphons such that you won't get a proper reading when the engine is cold.

Hope that helps.

 

[boborgera]

This looks very nice and quite simple to make. I wonder if someone again would explain why we cannot simply use a longer dip stick and just check the oil when the unit is cold.
.

The Spyder uses a dry sump system, With a cold engine some oil will stay in the crankcase and not be evacuated into the oil tank. My Tri Glide oil has to be checked the same way as the Spyder.
A longer dipstick will be a guess but it won't be accurate.

 

[NancysToy]

This looks very nice and quite simple to make. I wonder if someone again would explain why we cannot simply use a longer dip stick and just check the oil when the unit is cold. Like before a ride. Many times I am in a rush and don't have time to properly warm the bike up before leaving on a ride. Of course I always forget to check it when I return so the next day I wonder if the oil level is OK. I have not had a oil problem with the RT but the GS I traded in did use some oil. About 1 quart between changes.

The oil level will vary considerably with the oil temperature. In a 35 degree garage it may be quite different from the reading taken on a 70 degree day, or at 105 in the desert. The only consistent way is to do it with the engine at full operating temperature. That varies much less. As was said, some oil can leak back into the sumpo with the engine off. That is why you need to check right after running the engine for at least 30 seconds. That evacuates the sump.

I am not sure why the Spyder oil level is so critical. On most dry sump engines, the oil level can vary an inch or more and make no difference whatsoever. That does not seem to be the case with the Spyder, though, so check as they specify, and it should live a long time.

 

[Bob Denman]

but that darn process just seems so... annoying! pps:

 

[Pappy John]

We should be measuring the oil in the crankcase...LIKE EVERY OTHER ENGINE I'VE EVER DEALT WITH! This procedure is ridiculous.:sour: A few seconds too late in getting to the dipstick and you'll get an erroneous reading and have to start the engine again to re-check it.

Checking it cold, in the crankcase is foolproof.

 

[Bob Denman]

...Dry sump engine; carries its lifeblood in a separate tank... :shocked:

 

[Pappy John]

Okay then, why not check it cold in the "lower sump"?

Doesn't it ever collect in one area where you could get an accurate cold measurement?

 

[Jeriatric]

Checking Oil

Return from ride/or every 300 miles (basically every other fuel stop)

Turn Spyder off.

Remove helmet.

Remove panel.

Check oil.

Or, how can I make this process more difficult?

It's a choice thing.

:bdh:

 

[Bob Denman]

Let's just say that for those of us who got used to checking oil in a cold engine... it's an adaptive process that I have yet to master. pps:
But I DID learn that "MA" rating oil is the stuff to be pouring down its throat this morning! :thumbup:

 

[Jeriatric]

Let's just say that for those of us who got used to checking oil in a cold engine... it's an adaptive process that I have yet to master. pps:
But I DID learn that "MA" rating oil is the stuff to be pouring down its throat this morning! :thumbup:

You mean MA2......yes?

 

[boborgera]

We should be measuring the oil in the crankcase...LIKE EVERY OTHER ENGINE I'VE EVER DEALT WITH! This procedure is ridiculous.:sour: A few seconds too late in getting to the dipstick and you'll get an erroneous reading and have to start the engine again to re-check it.

Checking it cold, in the crankcase is foolproof.

Have you ever had a dry sump engine, There realy isn't' a crankcase. Hot is the only actuate way of checking, Nature of the design,
Also among other things it keeps the engine lower in the frame.

 

[Bob Denman]

You mean MA2......yes?

Well... I learned something this morning; maybe just not enough! pps: :roflblack: :joke:


MA 2! :2thumbs:

 

[Campverdefela]

The oil level will vary considerably with the oil temperature. In a 35 degree garage it may be quite different from the reading taken on a 70 degree day, or at 105 in the desert. The only consistent way is to do it with the engine at full operating temperature. That varies much less. As was said, some oil can leak back into the sumpo with the engine off. That is why you need to check right after running the engine for at least 30 seconds. That evacuates the sump.

I am not sure why the Spyder oil level is so critical. On most dry sump engines, the oil level can vary an inch or more and make no difference whatsoever. That does not seem to be the case with the Spyder, though, so check as they specify, and it should live a long time.

Not long ago I responded to a post on this very same thing. I stated that when you check your oil level you be consistent, to make sure you warm not only the oil, but transmission as well by at least going for a couple of mile ride. I further stated that the oil level would change for a warm oil situation and a hot oil[say after a long run]. I do recall you disagreed with that, so what has changed or what am I missing.

 

[NancysToy]

Not long ago I responded to a post on this very same thing. I stated that when you check your oil level you be consistent, to make sure you warm not only the oil, but transmission as well by at least going for a couple of mile ride. I further stated that the oil level would change for a warm oil situation and a hot oil[say after a long run]. I do recall you disagreed with that, so what has changed or what am I missing.

I would never disagree with that. I have always advocated checking oil after a ride. Either you were dreaming that day...or I was. Sorry for the mixup, whatever the reason. Your advice is still perfectly sound.

 

[Sarge707]

Return from ride.

Turn Spyder off.

Remove helmet.

Remove panel.
Turn Spyder on and let idle for 30 Seconds-
Then wait 30 Seconds BEFORE Checking!

Check oil.

Or, how can I make this process more difficult?

It's a choice thing.

:bdh:

I added the missing step!

 

[Jeriatric]

Hmmmm?

I added the missing step!

Don't think that's necessary. But, I'm all ears if I'm wrong.

Perhaps others will chime in?