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Auto tune / install and HMF / do it yourself
- Thread starter spyderraven
- Start date
spyderraven
New member
I have not gotten into the aspect of really digging into the program and trim lvls and such.
I have been riding a lot since I hooked everything up and she runs great! part of me says leave well enough alone the other part says get some readings and start "tweeking"
I plan on hooking up the laptop this weekend when I have some un-interupted time and see what she is doing.. I will post back here with any findings or what I am running as far as the HMF and KN filter go.
Like the above poster.... it is confusing
Kratos
Ultimate Spyderlover
That's where I struggled at. I was at "good enough" but my personality kept wanting to go further to see how much more I could get. But I figured out that I wasn't gaining much because the autotune is NEVER gonna stop trimming.....it will just keep doing "REVERSALS".....if you look hard enough you'll see it starting to take fuel away from areas it said needed fuel and add fuel to areas it said needed some taken away. It'll just dance around those areas non-stop. This is your sign to quick, IMO.
spyderraven
New member
Quit?? you mean admit defeat?? NONSENSE .....
I kid... In fact it would seem our personalities are fairly similar I think i will look at the maps just to see what its doing but other than that leave it alone. She runs smooth , no backfire, and no surging so all seems copacetic.
Texmac1011
New member
+1 I am a lifetime member of the "If It Ain't Broke, Don't Fix It" club. My wife's spyder is running like a champ, so I am done messing with it until something changes.
Sny
New member
Nothing wrong with that.
There's two kinds of people who buy fuel modifiers. People who want more power, and people who want the darn thing to run right after adding an aftermarket exhaust.
The O2 optimizer that comes with the power commander will do a lot of the work towards stopping the popping and other nonsense after adding an exhaust. Load in one of the standard maps from dynojet and you're "safe".
The Autotune module and other tweaking is to get more power and better fuel efficiency in the high rpm / high throttle areas (above 6000rpm or above 20% throttle).
If you're in the group who's looking to make it run right after making changes, you'll probably also be in the group that doesn't spend a lot of time above 6000rpms. The bike will run fine above 6000rpms without any help from the power commander, even with an exhaust (tho it might be dangerous if you have an aftermarket exhaust AND a high flowing intake).
But if you're in the "more power" group, you will find that without the power commander you are not making nearly the power you could be above 6000rpms.
Now, above 20% throttle almost everyone uses. And without the PC's help you will notice the huge bog that happens at low rpms (regardless of which gear you're in). It starts off fine then just groans it's way up until it's over 4000rpms or so. This can be fixed with tweaks in the power commander map. If you don't care or don't notice, you don't need to do anything here. You won't hurt anything by NOT tweaking.
The casual tuner here could just load a dynojet map and ride it however you normally ride. Every now and then, plug it in and apply the trim tables and send the map back to the bike. Don't bother looking at anything. Just do it every now and then and trust the autotune to keep things "close enough". It'll work fine. You really should apply some of the trim to it every now and then because your bike changes as it gets older. But even if you do nothing it'll still benefit from the fuel map that dyno jet provided. At that point you probably shouldn't have bought an autotune and saved some money.
There's two kinds of people who buy fuel modifiers. People who want more power, and people who want the darn thing to run right after adding an aftermarket exhaust.
The O2 optimizer that comes with the power commander will do a lot of the work towards stopping the popping and other nonsense after adding an exhaust. Load in one of the standard maps from dynojet and you're "safe".
The Autotune module and other tweaking is to get more power and better fuel efficiency in the high rpm / high throttle areas (above 6000rpm or above 20% throttle).
If you're in the group who's looking to make it run right after making changes, you'll probably also be in the group that doesn't spend a lot of time above 6000rpms. The bike will run fine above 6000rpms without any help from the power commander, even with an exhaust (tho it might be dangerous if you have an aftermarket exhaust AND a high flowing intake).
But if you're in the "more power" group, you will find that without the power commander you are not making nearly the power you could be above 6000rpms.
Now, above 20% throttle almost everyone uses. And without the PC's help you will notice the huge bog that happens at low rpms (regardless of which gear you're in). It starts off fine then just groans it's way up until it's over 4000rpms or so. This can be fixed with tweaks in the power commander map. If you don't care or don't notice, you don't need to do anything here. You won't hurt anything by NOT tweaking.
The casual tuner here could just load a dynojet map and ride it however you normally ride. Every now and then, plug it in and apply the trim tables and send the map back to the bike. Don't bother looking at anything. Just do it every now and then and trust the autotune to keep things "close enough". It'll work fine. You really should apply some of the trim to it every now and then because your bike changes as it gets older. But even if you do nothing it'll still benefit from the fuel map that dyno jet provided. At that point you probably shouldn't have bought an autotune and saved some money.
Sny
New member
Either you never got into the open loop area (above 6000rpms and/or above 20% throttle) or you have no AutoTune table loaded or something isn't hooked up right.
Did you open a map from dynojet and send it to the bike? Verify by clicking Get Map then under Auto Tune click on Target AFR. You should see a whole lot of 13.2's (dynojet likes that overly rich safe number).
If not, click open, find the map you downloaded from dynojet that closest matches your mods, and click Send Map.
Does the throttle % on the right side change when you turn the throttle? If not, you may have a communications problem, try rebooting the laptop, unplug and replug the usb cable (both ends) and turn off the spyder, wait 30 seconds for everything to shut off, then start over.
In addition to throttle % you can start the bike with the laptop hooked up and see the AFR live. You'll see some whacky numbers at idle somewhere between 14 and 17 (mine jumps around a lot at idle.) If you blip the throttle some you might see it go very lean (17-20) which means you might want to add more fuel, but it also means that your map probably didn't load right. Almost all the dynojet maps add fuel down low to help with low rpm issues that almost all stock Spyders have.
If it's communicating (you see throttle % changing when you move the throttle) and it has a map (you see 13.2's all over the AutoTune Target AFR map) then go ride again. Deliberately hammer it from 5mph to redline in first and second. You should at LEAST get numbers in the 80% or 100% columns then. If you still don't get anything, something isn't hooked up right.
If you guys have problems with the software feel free to PM me, I can talk through a lot of this on the phone as well if this isn't making sense. But also remember that Dynojet provides support for their products and are pretty nice guys on the phone.
Dochands
Member
Ok. Finally. Turns out the dealer made two mistakes setting up the Powercommander. First was only setting it for one sensor instead of two. Was set to take it back in tomorrow and finally noticed they had set set it up for Autotune switch. Well I have no switch so I clicked it off, revved the engine and bingo, the Autotune light came on my laptop.
Earlier loaded a map made by Andrew and Brad at Hi Performance for my turbo.
So now. Finally. The fun can begin. After all it has been a comedy of errors.
Earlier loaded a map made by Andrew and Brad at Hi Performance for my turbo.
So now. Finally. The fun can begin. After all it has been a comedy of errors.
stewartj239
New member
I am in the process of installing the AutoTune on my RT-S. I was searching the forum looking for the location of the tail light wire which they recommend to use as the power source, then I came across this thread. I am pretty good mechanically, but I am incompetent when it comes to the electrical stuff
I know this is an old thread, but can anyone elaborate on how exactly to wire the AutoTune to draw power from the fuse box? The directions say to wire it to the tail light wire using a posi-tap. How does that translate to the using the fuse box?
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